finishing a Kibler lockset

[mc1960]

When preparing and putting a finish on a Kibler lockset, should you completely disassemble it or can you do a good job with it left assembled?

 

[Flintandsteel]

No, it must be disassembled. The only parts that need finishing, are the plate, cock and top jaw, and back of the frizzen.
I use masking tape on the back of the plate, cock and frizzen to keep those areas clean.

 

[Phil Coffins]

This is all the farther I take them apart for finish, other folks do less.
IMG_0488 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
They come out well if you do the work.
AA0149F3-4E50-45BB-8CAC-B4D4D9909E96 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[mc1960]

Phil, did you dip the parts in a solution and rub them back, what solution did you use?

 

[ZUG]

This is all the farther I take them apart for finish, other folks do less.
IMG_0488 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
They come out well if you do the work.
AA0149F3-4E50-45BB-8CAC-B4D4D9909E96 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

Very nicely done Phil -- how did you get that lock case harden color?

 

[Phil Coffins]

Phil, did you dip the parts in a solution and rub them back, what solution did you use?

That one is real case coloring, the part is packed in a mixture of wood and bone charcoal then heated to 1375 degrees then quenched in water. Many more steps besides but that’s the general idea.

 

[mc1960]

Phil, is there any literature available on this process that you know of? Would love to find out more about the process.

 

[Scota@4570]

For specific questions on Kibler products contact Kibler.

IF you do not have a mainspring vice do not attempt to disassemble the lock.

Any polishing must be done with stones or abrasive paper backed with a file or wood block. Never use a polishing wheel, Dremil, or unbacked sand paper.

Finishing has lots of options. Cold blue, heat blue, case colors, rust brown, rust blue, or just polished. All of them can look good.

IF a guy has limited tools and skills I would leave the lock as you bought it. IT comes with a fine bead blasted finish. IT look good already. With time and use it will acquire a patina and look nicer.

 

[mc1960]

For specific questions on Kibler products contact Kibler.

IF you do not have a mainspring vice do not attempt to disassemble the lock.

Any polishing must be done with stones or abrasive paper backed with a file or wood block. Never use a polishing wheel, Dremil, or unbacked sand paper.

Finishing has lots of options. Cold blue, heat blue, case colors, rust brown, rust blue, or just polished. All of them can look good.

IF a guy has limited tools and skills I would leave the lock as you bought it. IT comes with a fine bead blasted finish. IT look good already. With time and use it will acquire a patina and look nicer.

Thanks, I have watched all of his videos at least once, but didn't know if you had to take it all of the way apart for a decent finish.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Phil, is there any literature available on this process that you know of? Would love to find out more about the process.

I’m sure there is, I’d start by googling “ charcoal color case hardening.”
You can get other color patterns by varying the details of the process.
IMG_1287 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Marplot]

That one is real case coloring, the part is packed in a mixture of wood and bone charcoal then heated to 1375 degrees then quenched in water. Many more steps besides but that’s the general idea.

I am sure you are doing this right so you can put the hardening back in the steel. How hot does steel need to not warp?

I would never even think about doing this though it really does give fantastic color!

 

[Marplot]

I’m sure there is, I’d start by googling “ charcoal color case hardening.”
You can get other color patterns by varying the details of the process.
IMG_1287 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

https://www.turnbullrestoration.com/restoration-services/color-case-hardening/

 

[Scota@4570]

Real color case hardening is beyond the skills and tools for the vast majority of hobbyists. IF you like the look you can fake it. I did the attached lock with heat colors. I heated the parts to straw with a propane torch. Then I then played a fine tip oxy-acetylene torch on the steel to create colors. With very little practice you can get something that looks sort of like color case hardening. One more option. If it goes bad polish it off.

 

[BadDaditood]

Any polishing must be done with stones or abrasive paper backed with a file or wood block. Never use a polishing wheel, Dremil, or unbacked sand paper.

To paraphrase a Master Builder on another forum:
“Sometimes late at night when alone in my shop I use sandpaper with only my fingers for backing”

 

[Wncman]

When preparing and putting a finish on a Kibler lockset, should you completely disassemble it or can you do a good job with it left assembled?

 

[Wncman]

Yes. You don’t want browning or blueing to affect the internals.

 

[Eric Krewson]

After I took the lock apart for my first build, I had to find a reference to put it back together as to what screw went where, I was a bit lost.

Lock disassembly is a required skill for gun building, you might as well learn to get ahead of the game and above all, buy a mainspring vise.

 

[Robert Losekamp]

If you lack the equipment to do it yourself, @FlinterNick is your man. I've sent two locks(Traditions and Chambers) to be cleaned up and tuned to him and couldn't be happier. He does great work and gets them sent out quickly. Traditions lock is faster and more reliable, Chambers is beautiful and sparks like a racecar sliding on its roof even with a flint nearing the end of its life.

 

[sturmkatze]

IF you do not have a mainspring vice do not attempt to disassemble the lock.

Not true. I did learn as a kid not to use channel locks. However, multiple decades of moons ago, I bought a Hawken Shop tool. It has a notch. You cock the lock snug the notch into the spring and voila, it works. However, in all honesty, you can do this with a crescent wrench. I never had a mainspring vice until 5 or so years ago. Handy, yep. Necessary, no

 

[boombyspark]

To paraphrase a Master Builder on another forum:
“Sometimes late at night when alone in my shop I use sandpaper with only my fingers for backing”

Real color case hardening is beyond the skills and tools for the vast majority of hobbyists. IF you like the look you can fake it. I did the attached lock with heat colors. I heated the parts to straw with a propane torch. Then I then played a fine tip oxy-acetylene torch on the steel to create colors. With very little practice you can get something that looks sort of like color case hardening. One more option. If it goes bad polish it off.

You make mention of polishing stones.I am looking for ones like what Kibler uses in his you tube tutorials. can't find any anywhere. Any idea where I can pick some up?