• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Filling in voids and mistakes for a inletting project.

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Weavedreamer

32 Cal
Joined
Jul 19, 2023
Messages
33
Reaction score
9
Location
Ellensburg Wa 98926
Anyone know of a good strong way to fill in gaps and voids in a wood stock? I’m trying to install a new Hatfield #06 L&R company lock onto my Pedersoli Frontier and the fit isn’t exact. There’s a small gap around the bottom edge that I can probably eliminate by seating it deeper but at the front nose of the side plate forwards of the pan there is now an undesirable gap where it doesn’t fit exactly right. I appreciate everyone’s time.
 
If you're EXTRA careful and don't need much wood, sometimes it's possible to remove a sliver of material with a narrow chisel from a non-critical place in the barrel channel.
 
Anyone know of a good strong way to fill in gaps and voids in a wood stock? I’m trying to install a new Hatfield #06 L&R company lock onto my Pedersoli Frontier and the fit isn’t exact. There’s a small gap around the bottom edge that I can probably eliminate by seating it deeper but at the front nose of the side plate forwards of the pan there is now an undesirable gap where it doesn’t fit exactly right. I appreciate everyone’s time.
If the bolster is flat against the barrel You can't just seat the bottom edge of the lock deeper., If the bolster isn't flat on the barrel then the whole lock needs to be deeper.
 
Anyone know of a good strong way to fill in gaps and voids in a wood stock? I’m trying to install a new Hatfield #06 L&R company lock onto my Pedersoli Frontier and the fit isn’t exact. There’s a small gap around the bottom edge that I can probably eliminate by seating it deeper but at the front nose of the side plate forwards of the pan there is now an undesirable gap where it doesn’t fit exactly right. I appreciate everyone’s time.
Installed an L&R RPL lock in my Hatfield and had the same issue. I emailed a photo of the misfit and was told they’d never had a complaint. I offered to send my original lock plate to them for a reference, they weren’t interested. I also had to file the recess for the drum to get the lock to fit. Have to say it’s much quicker than the original and once browned the gap is less noticeable. Good luck with the repair, I chose to shoot mine as it is without any issues.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0040.jpeg
    IMG_0040.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Anyone know of a good strong way to fill in gaps and voids in a wood stock? I’m trying to install a new Hatfield #06 L&R company lock onto my Pedersoli Frontier and the fit isn’t exact. There’s a small gap around the bottom edge that I can probably eliminate by seating it deeper but at the front nose of the side plate forwards of the pan there is now an undesirable gap where it doesn’t fit exactly right. I appreciate everyone’s time.
Pictures of the gaps would be helpful I did a post on how to repair gaps a while back but not sure if I posted it on here. You cannot just inlet the bottom edge deeper. The lock plate needs to be flat when the bolster hits the barrel, if it is at an angle then you will have a gap. If a flintlock then you have a powder trap if percussion the hammer is moved away from the nipple. Will Look to see if I still have the pictures from the post I did on fixing gaps.
 
Sounds like you have a small gap of say 0.020"? I would take a piece of scrap wood of the same type and using a sharp wood plane shave off a thin piece of wood and glue it into the gap and refit the lock. If once piece is not enough, take a thicker bite with the plane or glue multiple pieces together.:dunno:
 
I dont know your exact application but ive fixed so many mistakes over the years , mine , ones ...sometimes its a real challenge but its very doable . The number of strong glues and epoxies today are amazing . If you have pretty large gaps , slivers of wood from the same stock can be glued and clamped into place and the the next day or two you can re inlet the part . Many times the problem or void is just filled with epoxy . ...just depends on the problem . I had a fellow send me a stock that he had tried to bed his barrel into ....it was pretty bad . It took a lot of work and filling but it saved the stock , a rare piece of european walnut .
Anyone know of a good strong way to fill in gaps and voids in a wood stock? I’m trying to install a new Hatfield #06 L&R company lock onto my Pedersoli Frontier and the fit isn’t exact. There’s a small gap around the bottom edge that I can probably eliminate by seating it deeper but at the front nose of the side plate forwards of the pan there is now an undesirable gap where it doesn’t fit exactly right. I appreciate everyone’s time.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top