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Inletting and fitting a new lock onto my Pedersoli Frontier flintlock

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Weavedreamer

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I recently purchased a new Hatfield #06 flintlock from L&R Lock Company to replace the old one on my Pedersoli Frontier. It’ll be my first time doing a project of this nature. The new lock seems to be superior in every way but I especially like the improved pan, frizzen, and flint jaws. Regardless, it’s not a perfect swap fit and I’m having to do some shaping, adjusting, and inletting. So far I’ve shortened the trigger lever because it was far too long, made a new recess to accommodate a longer screw, and made the stock side slightly deeper to accommodate the thicker side plate. I want to wait to get some more professional opinions before I continue and do more damage than good. The problems I’m having are like I said prior, the locks are slightly different shapes, creating voids that aren’t very photogenic or functional in some areas. So I’d like to find a way to fill in these voids with something that’ll stick really good to wood and blend in with the rest of the stock in the areas that are visible when the lock is installed. Additionally, I’m having trouble with the inletting process. I tried using sharpe and blue loctite to identify the high spots and create a negative image to carve out but it didn’t seem to work at all. I only got it as far as I did from purely eye-balling the differences between the old and new lock. I’d really like to hear any advice or tips from your guys experience or maybe from someone who’s done this exact lock swap. Additionally I’m looking to sell the previous original lock on here or Gun Broker if anyone is interested but I’d need help figuring out what it’s worth first. I can attach pictures and video if needed for the project and the lock I’m selling. Thank you for your time to anyone who responds.

 
Sharpie works just fine as an inletting medium. Two or three coats with a fat sharpie are best, allow to dry between coats. Pick a color that will stand out against the wood.

Can't ever go wrong with good old oil lamp soot. Blue loctite? Why would you even try that? Lots of threads on this subject throughout this site, what works and what doesn't.

Pictures of the voids or gaps would be helpful in deciding how to fix it. Personally I would break out the welding machine in that situation and build the metal up, then trim it back down. I can't even begin to like the idea of a wood filler fixing gaps, though this bunch here will holler glue and sawdust ad nauseum.
 
Did you fully disassemble the lock prior to attempting to install it? It’s not generally a simple swap contrary to advertised. The position of the pan to the flash hole is what I would use to position the lock then if needed glue in a piece of wood and start inletting, sand and refinish the lock panel.
 
Ive done it a couple times . My first was to replace a Curly lock with an RE Davis lock , I wanted to keep the Curly lock for myself . Turned out good . I just inlet the new lock ,, then later filled in the voids with wood epoxied in and final fitting . Worked good . See it I can find pics ....here they are . Did the same with the side plate, wanted to keep it too for my gun I wanted to build later.
 

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Ive done it a couple times . My first was to replace a Curly lock with an RE Davis lock , I wanted to keep the Curly lock for myself . Turned out good . I just inlet the new lock ,, then later filled in the voids with wood epoxied in and final fitting . Worked good . See it I can find pics ....here they are . Did the same with the side plate, wanted to keep it too for my gun I wanted to build later.
Beautiful work and and a gorgeous gun, thank you for sharing.
 
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