Ferguson sporting rifle

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I recently scratch built a Ferguson action out of 8620 and intend on building a half stock sporting rifle.





I have the action barreled with a 30 inch swamped octagon barrel. I also have the 10 start thread breech screw finished.

If anyone is interested I can post pictures of my progress in the future.

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[kaintuck]

Why sure! :hatsoff:

 

[F.G. Ford]

Please tell us more!
Fred

 

[Shifty]

More please!

 

[sc45-70]

Through experimentation I found the best way to cut the 10 start thread is to index the piece and cut 1 thread at a time.

I built an index plate to attach to the face plate of my lathe. In the plate I drilled and tapped 10 holes, each hole 36 degree from the last. I numbered the holes 1 through 10. I drilled 2 holes in my face plate 180 degrees apart that match the holes in the index plate.

To use the index plate I fastened it to the face plate with holes 1 and 6. I mounted and centered the action piece on the index plate. I bored the hole through the action and cut 1 thread. I rotated the index plate to hole number 2 and 7 and cut the next thread and so on and so on.



To cut the breech screw I fastened the index plate to the face plate with a different set to holes. I put the breech screw blank between centers and used a lathe dog in 1 of the 10 holes. I cut 1 thread then rotated the lathe dog to the next hole and cut the next thread and so one and so on.



After the action and breech screws were finished I bored the action and threaded it for the barrel and breech plug. After mounting the barrel to the action I rough machined the action and hand finished it.

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[Shifty]

Wow thanks,I love this stuff,I am a very amateur machinists myself love to see what other people can do.

 

[Tinker2]

What TPI are you making?
Looks like a fun project, good luck.


William Alexander

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Wow ... we're not worthy :hatsoff:

They'll be some serious cyber-lurking, and drool on the keyboards, with this project!

 

[sc45-70]

The originals have a thread pitch rate of 1 thread per inch. With the equipment I have I was only able to achieve 1 thread in 7/8 inch.
So the breech screw has to rotate about 1 and 1/8 turn to load a ball.

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[Metalshaper]

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Also a THANKS :bow:

I was just getting ready to ask how you cut the multiple lead threads and such.. WAY cool!!! :wink:
always wanted to try that on my lathe, just never had nerve to give it a go... ( all self taught, so the learning curve is steep )


Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

 

[kaintuck]

:surrender:
I am lost......maybe I just need to stick to a SS flintlock,.....

Nice work!

 

[Wes/Tex]

Wow ... we're not worthy :hatsoff:

They'll be some serious cyber-lurking, and drool on the keyboards, with this project!

No kidding...this is going to be inter-resting! :haha:

 

[sc45-70]

Metalshaper
Another way to cut multi start threads is to set your cross slide at 90 degrees instead of 29 degrees. You cut 1 thread then move your cross slide the distance from thread to thread. Example= 1 TPI at 10 starts=.100 inch between threads, therefore if your lathe is set up to cut 1 TPI and you move the cross slide .100 inch for each thread, you will be able to cut a 10 start thread.

My problem is that my lathe will only cut 4 TPI at the coarsest gear setting. I had to borrow an idler gear the same pitch as my gears and modify it to be a driver gear. Since my driver gear is a 40 tooth and the idler gear is a 80 tooth that made my lathe able to cut a 2 TPI thread. I had to modify my smallest driver gear into a driven gear hence the 1 turn in 7/8 inch.

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[sc45-70]

Metalshaper
Another way to cut multi start threads is to set your cross slide at 90 degrees instead of 29 degrees. You cut 1 thread then move your cross slide the distance from thread to thread. Example= 1 TPI at 10 starts=.100 inch between threads, therefore if your lathe is set up to cut 1 TPI and you move the cross slide .100 inch for each thread, you will be able to cut a 10 start thread.


SC45-70

Correction
Should read

Another way to cut multi start threads is to set your TOP slide at 90 degrees instead of 29 degrees. You cut 1 thread then advance your TOP slide the distance from thread to thread. Example= 1 TPI at 10 starts = .100 inch between threads, there fore if your lathe is set up to cut 1 TPI and you advance your TOP slide .100 inch for each thread you will be able to cut a 10 start thread.

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[Metalshaper]

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OK, I think I got it :wink: I've studied a bit on
the multiple lead threading, I've just never had the nerve to go in the shop and give it a go! Like I said, self taught, so sometimes I have to rattle it around in my head a bit before I actually get the nerve up to try it..are you are using a standard V thread profile or something a bit different?

My lathe is a old Craftsman AA 109 6X12, but it has the full set of change gears. I'll have to dig up the gear chart again and see what I can manage with it? Fairly new to threading on my machine, but overall I've had more successes than failures.. :haha: < which has surprised me..>

Anyway, keep showing us your progress and letting us "peek' over you shoulder!!

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

 

[sc45-70]

Medalshaper

I used a standard 60 degree V thread.
With a pitch rate of 1 TPI you need to grind a lead angle on your cutter to match the pitch rate or the bottom of the cutter will gouge the thread.

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[Metalshaper]

Medalshaper

I used a standard 60 degree V thread.
With a pitch rate of 1 TPI you need to grind a lead angle on your cutter to match the pitch rate or the bottom of the cutter will gouge the thread.

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Thanks, appreciate your replies!

Good tip on grinding the lead angle.. something a 'rook' would have overlooked :redface: I checked on the gear chart and using the basic set, the lowest thread number is 8TPI. I will have to look into what gear sets I need to add? to see if I could get to a 1 tpi.

Please continue to show your Furgeson project.. a real source of motivation!!

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

 

[sc45-70]

I decided the best way for me to make the action wrench-trigger guard is to make it in pieces and weld it together.

I made the wrench part first.

I took a scrap piece of 3/8 inch plate and bored a 3/8 inch hole in the center. I machined the hole square with a 3/32 inch end mill. I next filed the corners of the hole.

I machined a square end on a scrap piece of 1 inch round bar to fit the square hole in the wrench. I mounted the wrench on the shaft, put it in a 3 jaw chuck mounted to my rotary table and machined the wrench to shape.



I roughly shaped a trigger bow and welded it to the wrench.



I will rough shape the trigger guard before welding the opening lever to the guard.

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[Metalshaper]

SC,

Ok have to admit to a bit of 'improvising' when it comes to machining without a rotary table. :redface:

I mounted a threaded shaft vertically in my vise.. drilled a hole in the blank and secured it to the shaft with a bolt and couple of brass washers.. tight enough, so it could just barely be turned by hand. I marked the arc I wanted and then fed the part in with very light cuts, sweeping the arc by manually manipulating the part... Took a long time, but I was trying to be as careful as doing something like this 'can' be.. worked out OK, but I wouldn't recommend the technique!! :nono:

Since then I have bought a lil' RT for my X2 mill!!

Keep up the good work!! and I appreciate your sharing you project and knowledge with us..

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

 

[Rolfkt]

Thank you for posting your project. It's way out of my leage but extremly interesting to follow.

Best regards
Rolf