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Extreme Dryball Problem Part II

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50cal.cliff

58 Cal.
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If you have read the Extreme Dryball Problem you pretty well know what happened. It can be found in previous posts. To make a long story short. While shooting my 50 cal. Traditions, St. Louis Hawken, percussion, I had a dryball. While trying to pull it in the field I literally ripped the center out of the ball. Unable to discharge the ball in the field I returned home and made a ball puller with a larger diameter puller, which ripped apart in the ball. Having the new puller threaded into the ball I attempted to pump the ball out with grease only to have the grease find a way around the ball and not move the ball. After clenaing barrel of grease I decided I was down to last resort. Unsure of eaxctly what was going on I decided to pull drum and breech plug. :youcrazy: The dryball had been expanded by the second puller so tight I had to drive it out with a wooden dowel.

Now I know you are not supposed to pull the drum or breech plug on a Traditions rifle, and I consider this a last resort as all ready stated!!! I was one of those that erroneously reported that it would destroy the threads, (this is what I had been told)! It does not destroy the threads if done properly. Removal of the drum and breech plug will Void you warranty.
I will however share the benefit of my knowledge on this subject. If I had know what I was doing the removal would have been no problem. As it was I damaged the drum and had to replace it. Since I couldn't go to Traditions for a replacement this is what I did. In the earlier post I mentioned taking the time to make a spanner wrench. This is the prototype.
000_0892.jpg

It is a piece of 1/2" ID steel pipe welded to an old heavy duty steel skillsaw blade wrench it has been drilled and threaded with a 6mmx1 thread this will work for a Traditions threaded nipple.
000_0889.jpg

Quite simply I used a 6mmx1 threaded SS bolt which threads through it and into the drum itself. You may have to play with the threading to get the bolt to thread continuously from the spanner wrench and into the drum,but this will offer the support needed to remove the drum without damage!
The replacement drum I decided to use was a CVA. It has same demensions as the Traditions except it has a reduced area on the drum for a wrench. I incorporated this into the other side of the wrench I built.
000_0902.jpg

It works well as I kept it tight to the drum size, welded it to the pipe and refiled for fit after it cooled.
000_0894.jpg

Now the main problem with the CVA drum is that is comes predrilled for the nipple. This creates a problem in torqueing the drum and having the mipple properly indexed for the nipple and hammer alignment. This problem was solved with a brass washer under the nipple. This is the CVA nipple with the washer.
000_0909.jpg

The washer was fitted to the barrel by screwing in the nipple and the top and bottom of the washer was peened down to the barrel. Then marked out where it contacted lock. I then removed drum and removed enough material at bottom of the washer too allow for assembly of barrel to gun and allowing for the washer under drum to not contact the backside of lock.
000_0905.jpg

Now all you have to do is simply thin washer to right thickness to allow for torque and proper allignment of nipple and hammer. I won't lie I bought six washers and I was on number for when I finally got it right. I bought the drum through TOW, now if they offerd one in metric that had not been predrilled that would have been the route to go but, since they don't you are forced to align torque and the nipple by thinning the washer.
000_0912.jpg

The breech plug, drum, and nipple are all installed in this pic. The guns barrel was rebrowned and has been reassembled and is ready for a test run. Which I have no doubt will go well but will post results of first range session.
 
I followed your travails in the "E-DB-P" story closely; an entertaining follow-up tale and a an enterprising and elegant solution! Here's to Home Engineering :thumbsup:
 
Really nice job! Remember to "Proof-Test" your new parts with a double charge while no one is around you! Do a regular charge first! But you knew that already! :wink:

Have fun with the thing! And, oh yeah, welcome to the Extreeme Dryball Club! :rotf: :shocked2:

Dave
 
Do you have any pics of the stubborn ball that caused all the trouble? I am interested in seeing the aftermath :hmm: The AR-15 family used a technique similar to your brass washer for the compensator screwed on to the muzzle. Used to have to use several very thin washers to get proper alignment and torque. Now they just use a crush washer, makes that job very easy.
 
Thanks for the feed back gentlemen. I have been home engineering most of my life, learned from my Dad. I have seen him take tools and make things with them most would say was impossible too do.
You asked if I had any pics of the offending ball the answer is no. I had the ball till the other day and I done a major clean up in my shop, and threw it in the trash. I will tell you this though the ball was elongated, once the walls of the barrel would not let it expand in diamater, it had begun to expand lengthwise. The act of screwing in the puller and then making one of a slightly larger diameter is what made it so tight to the barrel! IMO
Don't know what eaxctly a crush washer is but, if it does what the name implies might work well. One reason I decided to go with the brass washer is I knew the washer would be larger than the flat of the octoagon barrel and figured I would peen the rest to the barrel. Plus the brass is easy to sand and figured if I got it close it would be soft enough to crush slightly. Worked well and don't look bad either, and best part for about $3.00 bucks I got my rifle back together. :grin:
As for the quilt thanks, just glad Mamma hasn't seen that pic yet. I can hear it now, "will you get that nasty rifle off my good quilt"! (my rifle :shocked2: Nasty :shocked2: )
 
Why didn't you just pull the nipple and add some powder? Ive that a few times before and it got the ball out. Sure would have saved you a lot of trouble.
 
You have to read the first post, if you will go back and read the entire first part you will see that I did that in the field. :confused:
With a hole drilled through the ball, by the ball puller ripping the center out, a few grains of powder did not discharge the ball.
Came home and made a homemade puller and ripped it apart in the ball. I then tried to pump the ball out with grease but, the grease got by the ball and didn't move the ball either. :shake:
Now it's possible that once I got the grease out of the barrel I might have been able to fire it out then but, figured there would be still enough grease residue behind the ball to keep me from firing any powder at that point.
I also tried to push it out with a Co2discharger, at this point too no avail! :shocked2:
By this time I was begining to question what had really happened and figured a visual was the best way to go, if not the safest.
My suspicion at this point had to do with the length of a ball puller. :hmm: Have you ever wondered about the length of the screw on your ball puller?
After I ripped the homemade one apart my biggest fear was I had made the screw too long. If that had been the case, it could have screwed through the ball and into the breech plug.
Where as a few grains of powder behind that combo could have had bad results. :redface: Since the screw would have locked it too the breech plug. In the end that's not what happened. I think expansion of the lead was what locked it in so tight.
No, I don't think I made a bad decision to pull drum and breech. Do I recommend it No, it's a last resort. When you have tried everything else and nothing is moving the ball I would suggest you take a look see, so you know what your up against!!!
This whole post was intended to inform someone else who might have a similar problem and if it comes down to they now hav the knowledge they need to pull a drum and breech plug and reinstall them! I have been working on guns all my life and if I had the knowlege of what I was up against this operation would have been a breeze. Anything that someone else assembled can be unassembled and without damage, if you know how to do it, or know what tools you need!! :wink:
 
you only need to screw your puller a couple threads into the ball,,not the whole way through,,, :surrender: :surrender: :surrender:
 
Hehe figured I might get that response. Imagine a concave piece of metal like so ( with a hole cut in the center. The edges crush downwards flattening the washer as you tighten down on it. Depending on thickness, and material used you are able to get within a torque range with the proper alignment without having to mess with a bunch of razor thin washers. Probably took quite a bit to get a standardize part figured out but now that they have one it makes replacing that compensator a breeze. It's amazing the developments that come about from weaponry. Seems like some of the best engineering ideas got their start on guns.
 
Then I suggest that's what you keep doing!
Me I am going to grab my new Co2 dischager and give that a pull, then pop a cap to burn any residual powder and go on enjoying myself, with a great big grin on my face!!!!!! And don't even bother asking if it's PC or not! :rotf: :rotf:
 
Well here is the BUYAH!!!!!!!!!!
I know some of you thought I was crazy for mesing up my gun! :youcrazy: :shake:
Well her is the proof I weren't crazy afterall!
My daughter and her husband and his brother invited me to go with them to shoot this afternoon. They had just got a new pistol and wanted to shoot.
I brought the newly rebuilt 50 cal. Traditions! After shooting their pistol I broke out the smokepole. I threw a couple of offhand shot at this target in the first pic at 30yds. My shots are the two with the C by them. The others represent bench shots by three that have never fired a muzzleloader. They were shot with 55 gr. of GEOX 2f, .490 Speer RB, and precut ticking, with Hoppes#9BP Solvent and Lube.
000_0913.jpg

I think they done real well for never firing a muzzleloader and may have even made a couple of futher converts. :grin:
Now here is the BUYAH !
This group was shot at thirty yds. off a bench,
75gr. GEOX 2f, .490 Speer RB, and muzzle cut ticking with Hoppes #9 BP Solvent and Lube.
000_0914.jpg

I thought I had found this guns sweet spot right before the dryball problem and now I believe this more than ever. I still want to play around a little at 50 and 100yds but think this is goin to be a good combo. All in all I shot about 15 shots and never once put a patch down the gun. This three shot group was shot at the very end of the session! :wink: Gotta love real black and Hopppes#9BP Solvent and Lube!! :haha:
 
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