Drill sizes for loading blocks.

[tenngun]

Some of those are not quite correct. At least not for patch and ball together. The .36, .45, .50 and .54 are not quite right . . . unless you're using a ball peen hammer to drive them in.

I found it easiest to thumb push a ball in to the hole, so went a 1/16th bigger. 9/16 for a .50 and 5/8 for a .54.

 

[nhmoose]

I do not use a short starter with my loading blocks. I choke up on the ram rod and it starts fine. I also have some ball and patch sticking out of my blocks as that centers the ball well for me.

 

[Two Feathers]

I found it easiest to thumb push a ball in to the hole, so went a 1/16th bigger. 9/16 for a .50 and 5/8 for a .54.

That seems a bit big from my standpoint?
.562" (9/16") is rather large for a .490" (.50cal.) round ball. Even WITH .015" patch, that would only give you a package diameter of .520". That seems pretty sloppy?
Just my opinion.
God bless:
Two Feathers

 

[tenngun]

Holds well enough you can drop it with out it popping out

 

[Two Feathers]

Holds well enough you can drop it with out it popping out

Sounds good to me.
Two Feathers

 

[Timber Wolf]

I like the thickness of a loading block or the setting of the patched ball to allow the base of the ball to protrude slightly from the block. That little bump locates the ball in the muzzle. Of course this means that the spacing of the balls in the block need to allow each ball room to be placed on the muzzle.

Thanks for that little nit of insight. I have “store bought” blocks for .45, .50. 54, & .58 but they are all 6-10 hole versions good for the range, but not necessarily hunting. I want to make up some 4 hole versions.

 

[pooch156]

That seems a bit big from my standpoint?
.562" (9/16") is rather large for a .490" (.50cal.) round ball. Even WITH .015" patch, that would only give you a package diameter of .520". That seems pretty sloppy?
Just my opinion.
God bless:
Two Feathers

That seems a bit big from my standpoint?
.562" (9/16") is rather large for a .490" (.50cal.) round ball. Even WITH .015" patch, that would only give you a package diameter of .520". That seems pretty sloppy?
Just my opinion.
God bless:
Two Feathers

I found that a 9/16" bit works real well for the .530 (.54 Cal.) roundball using a .015 or .018 patch. Now, the 1/2" bit for a .490 roundball with a .015 or .018 patch is a definite "no go". Now mind you I used a Freud Precision Forstner bit which, according to "Starrett" is dead on 1/2".

 

[Two Feathers]

I found that a 9/16" bit works real well for the .530 (.54 Cal.) roundball using a .015 or .018 patch. Now, the 1/2" bit for a .490 roundball with a .015 or .018 patch is a definite "no go". Now mind you I used a Freud Precision Forstner bit which, according to "Starrett" is dead on 1/2".

Howdy:
Well..... a 9/16" bit for a .530 ball makes perfect sense, IF you're using . 015" - .018" patching?
God bless:
Two Feathrs

 

[pooch156]

Spent several hours in my shop yesterday coming up with the proper hole sizes to be drilled when making loading blocks. The sizes listed are for balls .010" under actual caliber size. Can be used for a lubed .015" or .018" patch. Snug with a .015 patch, tighter with a .018" patch. I have some nice pcs. of CM3 maple., that I'm using for the blocks. I'm waiting on a 33/64" brad point bit for my .50 caliber so I am not listing that as a proper size until I get the bit and test it. They are as follows:
.36 Cal. (.350 ball) - 25/64"
.40 Cal - (.390 ball) - 27/64"
.45 Cal - (.440 ball) - 15/32"
.50 Cal. - (.490 ball) - Pending
.54 Cal - (.530 ball) - 9/16"
I'll post some pics when I get them done.
-Pooch

Received my 33/64" drill bit for .50 caliber, .490 ball. It's perfect for use with either a .015 or .018 patch!

 

[BJHabermehl]

Received my 33/64" drill bit for .50 caliber, .490 ball. It's perfect for use with either a .015 or .018 patch!

I normally buy Irwin speed bore bits a 16 th inch larger than the dia of the ball, then carefully file the sides of the bit to the dia I need. Drilling experimental holes in scrap as I creep down on the size I need. Hope this helps. BJH

 

[pooch156]

I normally buy Irwin speed bore bits a 16th inch larger than the dia. of the ball, then carefully file the sides of the bit to the dia I need. Drilling experimental holes in scrap as I creep down on the size I need. Hope this helps. BJH

I thought of doing the same as I have a good selection of IRWIN Speedbore bits. But mine have been sharpened and the sides cleaned up too many times. One by one I have purchased Freud Precision Shear forstner bits. I say one by one as they are expensive. As far as twist drills and brad point bits I have several sets up to 1-1/4". And then, there's always that one that I need and don't have! LOL. I'm a toolaholic. See you at the meetin'

 

[pooch156]

Good job! They will look really good with a finish on them

They came out pretty nice actually. I used a antique stain from DGW that I had purchased over 10 years ago and never opened. If I build another rifle w/curly maple stock, this is the stain that I will use!

 

[pooch156]

Two other pics using a flash.

 

[MrMackc]

I reckon that there are many ways to patch and load a muzzle loader than just one. Like my Dad used to say " Son, there are more ways to make a baby than. . . . . just both of you going at it standing up in a hammock."