cylinder pin entering barrel problem

[ormond tony]

I have a 1851 pieta navy BP revolver. When I first got it, the barrel came off the cylinder pin easily when wedge was removed. After firing it about 60 times, the barrel comes off the cylinder pin until the last 1/2 inch where it sticks and requires a lot of effort to remove. I thought it was a heat issue but it also gets stuck at room temperature. It also is hard to put the barrel back on for the first 1/2 inch. Then it is easier. The wedge is out during this procedure. Any help?????

 

[bang]

Are there any uneven edges around the wedge slot or wedge slot on inside of barrel assembly?
If the arbor hole in the barrel assembly is too deep for correct fit of arbor it is possible to get some peening especially at the forward end of the slot. Rare but possible. I've had one do it.
Have you checked the arbor fit?
How well have you cleaned it? Could be carbon crud build up.
Put coloring on arbor and carefully attempt assembly. Give it slight force then disassemble and see where it's fouling.
Seems to me it's a impacted raised spot on barrel assembly or arbor at the wedge slot.

 

[ZUG]

It sounds like either your arbor has a burr on the front of the slot and is hanging up on the slot in the frame or your frame slot has a burr on it hanging up on the arbor as the gun is being dissembled.

 

[ormond tony]

Are there any uneven edges around the wedge slot or wedge slot on inside of barrel assembly?
If the arbor hole in the barrel assembly is too deep for correct fit of arbor it is possible to get some peening especially at the forward end of the slot. Rare but possible. I've had one do it.
Have you checked the arbor fit?
How well have you cleaned it? Could be carbon crud build up.
Put coloring on arbor and carefully attempt assembly. Give it slight force then disassemble and see where it's fouling.
Seems to me it's a impacted raised spot on barrel assembly or arbor at the wedge slot.

Thanks. I took some fine sandpaper and smoothed the wedge opening. Then added some lube and the barrel slid in. I clean my revolvers after each use with hot water and dish soap or some clenzoil and hoppe's 9. I clean the barrel, cylinder and wipe down the arbor. I'll pay more attention to arbor.

 

[hawkeye2]

I'm glad it was a simple solution for you. I've found burrs on the edges of the slots in the arbor and inside the arbor hole in the barrel too which made reassembly difficult. Stoning the edges of the slot and the slot inside the arbor hole with a round stone took care of them. I also every lightly break the sharp edges on the wedge which often helps.

 

[ormond tony]

I bought some stones at different coarseness. I worked on the wedge opening on the arbor and the barrel slip on without trouble. Whats the best lube to use on the arbor?

 

[Grenadier1758]

I like RIG. Its a fairly stiff grease with good rust inhibiting qualities. Just about any lubricant or grease will capture fouling and build up. During a shooting session, wiping of the arbor after firing a cylinder or two is a good idea.

 

[wb78963]

Black powder fouling or the so-called "substitutes" need WATER to properly clean.. Hoppe's #9 smells great, but will NOT dissolve the black powder fouling.
My personal cleaner is Ballistol and water mixed 1:10. It does a great job of cleaning and leaves a light coat of oil.
I have guns that have not been shot in almost a year cleaned like that and there is no sign of rust, corrosion, or any thing.
Caveat...I only shoot real Black Gun Powder or APP. No Pyrodex. 777, or other substitutes so i cannot speak for them..
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