• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

CVA Kentucky.45

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have one of those. Bought it from JCPenneys in 1976 as a kit gun. I wanted to go pa muzzleloader hunting, only to find out that I couldn't use it because it was percussion and at that time it wasn't considered as a primitive weapon. And look at how things are today. However it is fairly accurate.
 
I am not an expert on these old ML's but that stock (2 piece) reminds me of the old Traditions rifles, lots of them came in a 1:48 in a .45 cal. I have a FIE that is 1:48 .45 cal out of the same Companies over in Spain
 
If you're going to refinish, I'd take the time to do some wood removal and stock shaping, thin down and shape the forend at least. Those things can be great shooters!
 
I am not an expert on these old ML's but that stock (2 piece) reminds me of the old Traditions rifles, lots of them came in a 1:48 in a .45 cal. I have a FIE that is 1:48 .45 cal out of the same Companies over in Spain

The CVAs pre-date the Traditions rifles that look the same. Essentially, when CVA got out of the sidelock market, Traditions took over as the primary importer for these guns.
 
Checked the tang bolt from my traditions Kentucky, when fully seated it actually sticks out about 1/8 inch through the trigger base.
 
That was my first rifle as well! 1972 era. TACK DRIVER FER SURE!

I will agree with the dont mess with the rifle crowd. You have a $150.00 rifle. Spend $50.00 and 20 hours and you have a $150.00 rifle. (assuming its found a permanent home). Put a $4K stereo in yer Ford Pinto and yer cool, still driving a Ford Pinto though?

SHOOT AND REPORT (with pictures). Great deal BTW
 
A83FBB1B-6CCC-475C-BCAE-5268DFD8132F.jpeg

A83FBB1B-6CCC-475C-BCAE-5268DFD8132F.jpeg
A83FBB1B-6CCC-475C-BCAE-5268DFD8132F.jpeg
A119D62D-A872-4353-8325-6B16D5B4CF0B.jpeg
 
100% Tack driver. I was given one a couple year ago and it quickly became my main match gun. After a couple years, I finally took it out of service to clean it up. It was originally slapped together as a quick kit build in the 80s was the story it came to me with. If you can avoid it at all.. do not mess with the bolster... I did, and it works.. but it came at a cost of PITA cleaning after usage due to exposed thread left from the original bolster design.

Final cleanup video reveal below:

 
As long as you have it stripped and taken apart you could shorten the forearm several inches (where the entry pipe goes into the stock and thin and round it full length as well. I don't know why on reproduction guns they make the forearm so long. It can make the rifle so much slimmer and sleeker just by removing a little extra wood.
 
Something with a medium brown and then Minwax Gunstock (thats a color not a specific product) over it will give a brown/reddish tint.
 
Back
Top