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CVA Bobcat Diagram?

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gooddw

40 Cal.
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I tried to fire my Bobcat today for the first time. Would not fire. The cap would not go off. The hammer seems to drag on the way down. I disassembled the lock and the spring popped out before I saw it. Can't figure how to put it back together. I think it sat on Walmart's shelf to long. I had some minor rust in the lock.

Does anyone know where I can find a diagram of the Bobcat? The owners manual did not have one.

Thanks
 
Stars&Bars said:
I tried to fire my Bobcat today for the first time. Would not fire. The cap would not go off. The hammer seems to drag on the way down. I disassembled the lock and the spring popped out before I saw it. Can't figure how to put it back together. I think it sat on Walmart's shelf to long. I had some minor rust in the lock.

Does anyone know where I can find a diagram of the Bobcat? The owners manual did not have one.

Thanks

IF I can make this easy to understand...

I'm assuming that you mean the main spring and not the sear spring or trigger spring. Well, obviously the spring belongs on the inside of the lock--not trying to insult your intelligence, but you just never know who might be reading this.

The little spring retainer "stud" on the side of the spring goes in the hole through the lock plate. The hole is located about where the lockplate starts getting taller where the forward most section ends. (HINT: On the outside of the plate the hole is through the end of the little engraving scrollwork on the forward most end of the lock plate.)

So now the curve in the spring is at the most forward position it can be in. The next part sounds easy, but you will need to compress the spring. There are special tools for doing this work, as the spring can get broken by rough handling. ANYWAY, a small vise will work, or a pair of locking pliers/"vise grips"... the short side of the spring goes up under the ledge that juts inward. The long side with the hook in the end goes just above and against the forward curled edge of the tumbler which is the lighter coloured metal thingy that the hammer pivots on.

It's pretty intuitive where the spring goes once you take the thing and see where the little retaining stud fits in the hole in the lock plate.

PLEASE let me know if you made any sense out of these ramblings... I hope you did.

BUT IF YOU NEED A PICTURE--
If I am able to do this, it would be a "minor miracle", but I'll try... I can take a digital picture on my Bobcat's lock for you. It won't be high resolution, but probably good enough to see where things belong. Also I will have to wait till tomorrow to take it, as my camera will only work in bright daylight/sunlight times.

Yeah, I know it's a cheap little webcam and I need to get a new digital camera with all the bells & whistles--but I already spent my Christmas Club for this year. Thank Goodness all that scrambling through the crowds is over--for this year anyway!

Again, let me know how you made out. It's pretty easy to put back unless the little stud broke, then you'll need a new spring... hope not.

Regards, and Good Luck on your endeavor,
WV_Hillbilly
 
I got it back together. Thanks. It would be difficult to insult my intelligence.

I used a regular pair of pliers. It was difficult but I got it. After cleaning the rust and oiling it up, it seems much more free. I also found rust on the nipple. I'm going to Basspro next week in Charlotte. I will see if they carry any nipples for CVA.

I also put about 1.5 lbs of lead in the stock. It made a huge difference in the balance. I will shoot it tomorrow, I hope.

Thanks again.

Another question for you. Is the rule .010 patch with .495 ball and .015 patch with .490 or does it just depend on the gun?
 
The most common starting load for the Bobcat is .015 patch and a.490 round ball.with 50 grs.2ffg real BP or Pyrocex RS. The .490 round balls are easier to find than the .495s.And the Wal-Mart should carry the Pyrodex and .015 prelubed patches.Make certain to check out the bore for obstructions and /or rust.This combo will get You shooting and then You can start working up a load from here.Unfortunate as it is very few of the clerks at the Wwl-Mart know more than what end the bullet comes out.Keep us posted on Your progress. :thumbsup:
 
I shot it!! I didn't have any round balls so I used a 230grain saboted bullet with 90 grains of Pyrodex P. It shot fine. Next I used 90 grains of Goex 3F BP and again it fired. I like the BP better. I need to find a local source for BP. I have 2 lbs that someone gave me a couple of years ago.

Does anyone have experience with KIK powder?

I'm going to Charlotte next week and will go by Basspro and pickup some .490s until I get my mould.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
No personal experience with KIK, but almost everyone i hear talk about it likes it fine. Would like to find some to try myself.
 
Another bobcat thought.

The only complaint I had when I fired mine was that the thing had "hangfires" between the cap snap and the pyrodex going off. I much prefer bp but its getting harder to get, and I dont like to use my bp for target shooting...more of a when the chips are down scenario.

I ordered and received some musket nipples that fit the bobcat (and other cva rifles??) perfectly. The hammer lined up nicely and everything. Have yet to fire it with the musket caps but I'm looking forward to it, as I suspect that it will provide more flame and thus better ignition. I'm aware of the redhot nipples, etc.. but you still only have so much flame with a number 11 cap. I wanna see what a musket cap will do.

If I think of it, Ill mention the results on here.

Hangfire/tx
 
Is it possible to overkill a little bit on the amount of flame on the nipple? The hole is only so big.

As far as "when the chips are down", I have a Rossi .357 magnum lever action for that.

My muzzleloaders are for fun. There was a thread going on the subject of self defense. It was pretty interesting. I'm assuming that's what you meant. Apologies if it wasn't.
 
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