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Crisco for patch lube?

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SnakeRiverMatt

32 Cal.
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Okay here is the story. I got 2 muzzloaders this week in exchange for a MAS 1936. I am dying to fire one. But She Who Must Be Obeyed swiped my blazer to finish the Christmas shopping and the nearest lube is in Idaho Falls (a 100 mile round trip).

I remember back in the 1970s, my brother (who is easily the cheapest person to ever tred shoe leather) used crisco for patch lube. It is linseed based, I believe.

Any reason why this plan won't work? Other than I don't have caps either.
 
I hear that it works well, Yet I have not tried it myself but will be since the deer season is now over.
 
Henry'sfork, crisco will work just fine until you can buy something else and it has always been an old standby.Some folks still use it and never changed to the newer products when they came on the market. You will still need those caps though!
 
I had an epiphanyand check our local podunkk harware store. Wonderlube and caps were purchased. I will try using a nut driver as a ball starter.

I could kick myself. I went on a Mauser spree about 5 years ago and sold all of my BP stuff to finance the habit.

I now hold an 01 FFL, So I always have interesting stuff floating about.

Gents, thanks for the reply. I figured Mike couldn't have been far wrong; he is, after all, a chemist.
 
CRisco hardens in the cold, so either thin it with mineral oil, or vegetable oil, or keep those lubed patches in an inside pocket when you are out hunting, to keep them soft. Its cold out there, as you well know, and there is nothing more frustrating than trying to center a lubed pre-cut patch on the muzzle when its stiff, cold, your fingers want to be inside gloves, and picking up and moving that patch around is on the same order as picking up a dime with gloves on.

Take a Look at Dutch Schoultz's system,
[url] www.blackpowderrifleaccuracysystem.com[/url].

And order your copy of his system for $15.00. He advocates a dry lube for patching, which consists of putting lube on patching wet, and then drying the patches. He gives his formula, but there are hundreds of equally good formula for lubes out there. There is really no need for anyone to have to drive miles and miles to get lube. What you have in your kitchen cupboards and garage will usually make a decent lube.
 
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being cheap i still use it for patch lube and on my colts and rem. pistols use it on the base pins and over the ball. they seam to shoot well and don't bind up when using it for a lube. i even use it on my mini balls in my 1841 rifle.
 
There are a couple good competitive shooters in this area that use Crisco and beeswax for lube.
 
I use Crisco for wad lube and to coat the ball portion of my Bess's paper cartridges. Works great. Other things that can be used straight are spit and olive oil.
 
Crisco is all that I have ever used. I haven't had any trouble yet, but I don't hunt below 0 degrees F. Better to stay in and stay warm.
 
Crisco is old school, and It works quite well. Basically, Anything that is "LIQUIDY" works. I wouldn't use gasoline though.

Headhunter
 
Crisco (or the generic equivalent) was THE FIRST"lube" that I ever used for muzzleloading. WHEW! That was many years ago too... I generally use a form of moose milk (which for me is Ballistol mixed with Water in a 1:1 ratio). I have used many expedients when my preferred was unavailable.

If you're old and stoved up with arthritis like me, the muscle rub cremes (I used the generic brand of "Ben Gay" from Wal-Mart) work great for lube. As with everything, some muzzleloaders may not shoot the greatest with certain substances for patch lube--but it's better than not shooting at all...

I am glad that you found your supplies though. Make sure to keep buying local as long as you can, so that the store keeps those items in stock. It's really no fun to run out of caps. I think Forster still makes the Tap-O-Cap homemade percussion cap maker--uses empty aluminum soda (or beer) cans and toy caps to create the finished product. (NOTE: Make sure to use enough cap charges to ensure reliable operation.) While most people don't care for these--they are an expedient, but they can keep you shooting when otherwise you would be without the needed caps.

(BTW all of those toy caps are VERY CORROSIVE!)

Regards, and shoot safely,
WV_Hillbilly

PS Improvisation can be interesting... and (for me anyway), it is one of the facets of muzzleloading that makes it more fun than a new pup.
 
Blizzard of '93 said:
got any white Go-Jo? works great. it has stuff in it that is in stumpkillers 'moose snot'

People clean their hands with eight parts castor oil, two parts beeswax and one part Murphy's oil soap? How do they clean their hands after they clean their hands? :haha:

As I've said before, your own spit is one of the best so about anything you can wipe, soak or pour on a patch will work. Some better'n others and some halp with clean-up or delaying corrosion from starting.

I used Crisco, mutton tallow and beeswax in equal parts for many years and to roll shotgun wads in (very shallow pan) for a lube. That's an "old" recipe from the 50's or so. Not bad for accuracy, but I found I had to spit wipe between every shot. Pure Crisco is better, but very messy and I worry that it leaches into the load if it sets too long.
 
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