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Cracked TC Hawken Stock

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I was cleaning our 4-H program guns the other day, and saw that one of our Thompson Hawkens has a crack. I don’t know how old this gun is, but I’d like to get it back into service. I have a few options, and wanted to get some opinions on the correct course of action.

1. Does TC still warranty their stocks?
2. I have a replacement stock that we have been intending to turn into a flintlock. However, I should be able to swap everything over to that stock if need be.
3. Can the stock be repaired and considered safe for a gun we use for our youth program?

Any advice is appreciated.
 

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Normal and repairable. There was a thread 2 weeks ago or so on the same issue. Comes from the barrel not seated fully wehen reassemb)ed after cleaning. Pulling barrel down into channel torques it and creates the crack. Bolt creates the weak point. Glues, pins, toothpicks used to repair and clamps.
 
Tc does not warranty these guns any longer. That crack is very common and was most likely caused by not having hooked breech fully seated in tang when putting back together. A good wood worker could pin or counter sink a screw and fix it easily and it would be very safe to shoot. I have a Renegade with that crack and I shoot it as is .
 
It depends on your load. I had one crack and I repaired it with Accuraglass Gel. It broke again so the next time I drilled it and added brass pins. It broke again. I was shooting 458 gr bullets in it and it just could not take the pounding of that load on the repair. If your shooting a PRB it might work but I didn't have good luck doing it.
 
I have repaired many cracked stocks with good results. I first drill a small hole at the end of the crack to relieve any stress and prevent the crack from extending. I inject gorilla glue into the crack since it expands as it cures so it fills any voids. I "cross pin " the crack with wooden dowels. Sand and touch up the finish. problem solved.
 
FWIW, a bit of sawdust (which is the same wood as the stock) taken/made from under the buttplate & mixed into the adhesive will render the repair virtually invisible to those who don't know it was repaired.
 
Later TCs replaced The forward tang wood screw with a machine screw that went through the tang, stock and trigger plate, and then threaded into the trigger guard, effectively clamping the stock between the tang and trigger guard. Older TC trigger assembles have a spring in front of the trigger that doesn’t allow this retrofit with out replacing the trigger (RE Davis Deerslayer triggers for example have the clearance hole). What I have done to many TC stocks (before any crack or after a crack repair) is to replace the two wood screws in the tang with machine screws and threaded inserts in the trigger mortise, similar to what Lyman does on their GPR. Knock on wood, but have not had one crack or re-crack after this reinforcement has been made. Here are a few photographs to help explain.
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When repairing cracks I avoid the wood glues and Gorilla Glue, though great adhesives. If the crack opens up again these glues will not adhere to the old cured repair. Accuraglass on the other hand will adhere to old repairs and allow you to build up the repair area if needed. Just my opinion.
 
Later TCs replaced The forward tang wood screw with a machine screw that went through the tang, stock and trigger plate, and then threaded into the trigger guard, effectively clamping the stock between the tang and trigger guard. Older TC trigger assembles have a spring in front of the trigger that doesn’t allow this retrofit with out replacing the trigger (RE Davis Deerslayer triggers for example have the clearance hole). What I have done to many TC stocks (before any crack or after a crack repair) is to replace the two wood screws in the tang with machine screws and threaded inserts in the trigger mortise, similar to what Lyman does on their GPR. Knock on wood, but have not had one crack or re-crack after this reinforcement has been made. Here are a few photographs to help explain. View attachment 50830
View attachment 50831
View attachment 50832
View attachment 50833
SDSmlf, You're a master. Can't see it, done.
 
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