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Cost of rebarelling a flitnlock longrifle?

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ballandcap

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What would I expect to pay to have a custom flintlock longrifle rebarelled? I have been wanting to change calibers for a few years, and had troubles with this barell but don't really want to get into the "?why rebarell?" because it will open a can of worms, already been all through that. Just want to know what I'd be looking at approx cost wise or what I should expect to pay.

The barell is a straight octogan 13/16"x42" flint.
I'd need the barell replaced, dovetails cut in (I have sights already I'll use, probably just use my existing tang, all browned and installed on gun, and test fired and proven.
Thank you!
 
Well, if I were bidding on the job, which I most certainly am not, :haha: I think I'd do it for $100.00 plus the cost of the barrel, but I always did work cheap so I really don't know what a professional would have to charge in order to make a living. That is all based on some assumptions, like just a common breechplug, underlugs ect. if it's an unusual breechplug, barrel pinning arangement, that could add significently to both labor and materials. In other words, I retract my bid pending additional information required. :haha:
 
It is just a common breach/ tang which I'd just use the existing.
It is a pinned barrell through the underlugs.
 
ballandcap said:
What would I expect to pay to have a custom flintlock longrifle rebarelled? I have been wanting to change calibers for a few years, and had troubles with this barell but don't really want to get into the "?why rebarell?" because it will open a can of worms, already been all through that. Just want to know what I'd be looking at approx cost wise or what I should expect to pay.

The barell is a straight octogan 13/16"x42" flint.
I'd need the barell replaced, dovetails cut in (I have sights already I'll use, probably just use my existing tang, all browned and installed on gun, and test fired and proven.
Thank you!

Without seeing the work and all of the variables to consider, and the fact that I think fairly highly of my time I would quote you $200 plus parts.

I cut all my dovetails by hand and considering the fitting of the breech plug.

Yup $200.

For me this sounds like most of a days worth of work by the time its finished, then the finishing of the barrel.

In my professional career there is a saying goes like this,

I never lost a dime on a job I didn't get.
 
Depending on the caliber you want, you might want to consider
reboring or relining the existing barrel. Lugs, sight dovetails stay the same and you don't have to worry about potential problems using your existing plug in a new barrel. If you're dead set on a new one, check Track Of The Wolf. They'll provide the barrel and do all the machining you'll need. They may tell you that you'll need a new plug. They show all the gunsmithing services they provide and prices on their site.

Duane
 
Consider doing it yourself.
Fitting the tang/breechplug is the most critical part of the job. You can order a barrel breeched from many sources. e.g. Pecatonica and others.
The underlug does not have to be dovetailed. They can be soldered on. If you are at all handy and have some patience you can do a good job yourself. You are looking at $150.00 to $200.00 for a breeched straight barrel.
 
ballandcap said:
What would I expect to pay to have a custom flintlock longrifle rebarelled? I have been wanting to change calibers for a few years, and had troubles with this barell but don't really want to get into the "?why rebarell?" because it will open a can of worms, already been all through that. Just want to know what I'd be looking at approx cost wise or what I should expect to pay.

The barell is a straight octogan 13/16"x42" flint.
I'd need the barell replaced, dovetails cut in (I have sights already I'll use, probably just use my existing tang, all browned and installed on gun, and test fired and proven.
Thank you!

Is the slim 13/16" barrel already offerred in the different caliber you want?
 
Rifleman1776 said:
You can order a barrel breeched from many sources. e.g. Pecatonica and others.
The underlug does not have to be dovetailed. They can be soldered on.

If you use another breech plug/tang it will have to be re-inlet into the stock. It will not be the same or fit the same inlet as the original.

Depending on the amount of web between the barrel and ramrod, if you solder the under lugs to the bottom of the barrel you may break into the ram rod channel with the tabs, not a deal breaker, but by soldering the lugs on to the bottom of the barrel you will most likely render the pin holes in the stock useless, this will require them to be re-drilled lower and the old holes plugged. Then possibly re-finish the wood.
 
Duane and Rifleman. Thanks for the advice and tips, I'll check out the options. At this point I think I just want it done and done right once and for all w/o messing with it anymore.

Roundball, yes the caliber is offered that I want in the 13/16". Probably just go with a .45

Coyote and Apprentice, that gives me an idea. So using the $100.00-200.00 labor plus parts, plus me paying shipping both ways I'd be looking at $340 or so on up to around $500 (if needing new underlugs and breach/tang). I had in my head a couple of hundred for some reason, but the G.M. 42" barell alone from TOW is $155, plus shipping. Was thinking they were less for some reason. Not sure if the builders get better prices or have acounts and get barells at cost? If so may like the Rice w/ Round bottom rifling?

Would it help if I posted up pictures of the barell on and off the gun? If so what pics would be the best? I hate to drop that much more into this gun.
Thanks guys this gives me an idea what I'm looking at.
 
I did mine myself. Used the original tang and sights, bought new lugs. I hand filed the dovetails and browned it. I enjoyed the process and it didn't take too long.
 
I had TOTW do one for me quite a few years ago. I just called them up and ask if they could duplicate a barrel, sent the original and when I received both barrels, the new one was a drop in. They used my original plug, so it fit the stock. If I needed one now I would do it again.

Mel
 
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