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Colt style revolver questions

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JackAubrey

45 Cal.
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I am curious what type of lube would be good to use on the cylinder shaft on a colt style revolver.I need some suggestions please.And concerning the barrel pin,If one views it from the side it resembles the letter "L".One side is flat, the other has something resembling a spring of sorts.Does it matter which way the barrel pin is installed?Spring up or spring down?And what is the purpose of the litte screw above the barrel pin?It would appear to be a set screw however it is a rather odd thing. :hmm: Thank you all in advance for the replies,Jack.
 
I use a lube made up of beeswax, tallow and a little olive oil. It is stiff enough to keep fouling out of the arbor/cylinder interface, thus keeping the cylinder turning easily. I use the same stuff as an over ball lube. In fact, I pretty much use it for everything on my B.P. guns. You do have to make it yourself. I use 1/3 beeswax, 2/3 tallow and melt it together and stir it up with a stick. When it is mixed thoroughly, I add 2 tablespoons of olive oil and mix that in.I make a couple of pounds at a time. Keeps well and doesn't melt all over everything in hot weather.

The spring goes up. Always. The head of the wedge retaining screw slides in the spring area when you break the revolver down for cleaning and the little teat on the spring keeps the wedge from falling out.

Is the screw you mention the one above the wedge? If so, that is the wedge retainig screw and you don't need to remove it to slide the wedge free. Just tap the wedge with a wooden or plastic tool(I use the butt of a screwdriver), set the reolver on half-cock and firmly pull down on the rammer, which will lie on the web between chambers. The barrel assembly will come off easily in most cases.
 
Jack,
I agree completely with Russ, except I use bore butter because I use it everywhere else. I suspect whatever most people use for lube is what they use on the base pin...

Regards,

Ivery
 
I use Crisco to lube the cylinder arbor and the threads of the nipples.

The wedge retaining screw's task is twofold:
1) to prevent the wedge falling out of the barrel slot and get lost,
2) if set to the right distance (head to barrel-side) you can tap in the wedge to the same depth all the time (set it that the barrel don't bind the cylinder) :m2c:
 
I think the most important property for a lube used on a Colt arbor is that it fill the space between cylinder and arbor. A stiffish lube is probably best. I have always been told that this was Colt's intent and that the idea was to keep the revolver firing longer. I find it works just fine.

I wish there was more room around my Remington's arbor, but using my lube does seem to give me a couple of extra cylinderfuls over using plain oil.
 
Yea, that is one drawback with the Remingtons. That nice big, grooved cylinder pin on the Colts can go a long time without having to worry about it foulng, as compared to the Rem.
 
Remmys are also easier to drop the cylinder and wipe everything off. The solid top frame is also likely why the cyl pin is so much smaller than a Colt - the open top requires more meat on the pin for strength and since it was harder to take apart the grease grooves helped with fouling.
 
Gentlemen,I thank each of you for the input.I suspected a "paste"type lube would be better but wanted confirmation from those who would know.I have been using Breakfree CLP.Not bad for six shots.I am amazed how warm the weapon becomes after only six shots.50 grains of 3f warms things up a[url] tad.Again[/url], thank each of you for the advice ,best regards,Jack.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
After firing a couple of cylinders, getting that little arbor out can be an effort. Sometimes firing one cylinder is enough to gum up the works. I thought perhaps it was my particular piece, since it is fitted very tightly in all its parts, but others have spoken of the problem.

The grease grooves were a fine idea and show that Sam Colt knew his business. They do help retain lube, which in turn keeps fouling out of the critical arbor/cylinder interface. It is a well known fact that the Colt will continue to function long after the Remington has packed it in due to fouling issues. I have never heard an experienced C&B revolver shooter argue this point. It does, in fact, seem to be one point upon which we can agree.

While I will allow no insults to my old Remington, I do know it's limitations. With it's short barrel and reduced grip, it is a handy carry piece, and it is reliable. But it won't, despite my best efforts and trying every trick I could dream up, shoot as long as my Colts without cleaning. And while it's balance has been improved, it still doesn't handle like a Colt. Try this: lay a Colt Navy or even a '60 Army next to a Remington and pick them up one at a time and cycle them in turn. The difference really is noticeable.
 
Another vote for Bore Butter here. While shooting though, when the Colt gets a little tight, a little squirt of Ballistol around the cyclinder axel does wonders. Ballistol is also the best I have found for between loading barrel swabbing to reduce lead fouling that effects accuracy.
 
Me, myself and I use axle grease for the cylinder pin and the innards. Oxwads soaked in melted Bore Butter for the chambers, and a coating of Bore Butter for the exterior. I did at one time use Spit Patch before I started using Bore Butter, many moons ago. Has worked for me the past 25 or so years.

Just :m2c:
 
I have used various and sundry greasy substances for the cylinder pin lubrication. "Lubri-Plate" gave a very good account of itself. However like others, to save time and lighten up my kit, I usually end up using whatever lube I'm covering the projectiles with. (i.e. Crisco, etc...).

You already got the answer about the wedge. If I read through and find that some obscure bit of information has been omitted somehow, I will edit this reply and comment on it.

BTW, I have used a little syringe or capillary tube bottle and Valvoline 5W-30 full synthetic "oil" to lube the cylinder pins "on the fly"... AND for whenever I didn't feel like breaking it down, wiping the pin and pushing a clean patch trhough the cylinder pin's "mating location" in the cylinder.

Just "splurting" a small amount of this stuff seems to keep things freed up longer as it does not gunk up like grease, and "maybe"(?) that it's synthetic must have something to do with that--but I'm no petrochemical engineer to know why...???

Shoot Safely!
WV_Hillbilly
 
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