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Cleaning with transmission fluid

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rjpalmer

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TVM has a how to article on their website detailing how to clean a muzzleloader with transmission fluid. I've never heard of this before. Does anyone use this method?
 
I've never tried it but I have heard that tranny fluid is close in make up to whale oil which was used for lube and preserving guns back in the day.
I don't know about cleaning but it should work ok for a rust preventer.

For cleaning just use plain ol' water. :thumbsup:
 
You don't "clean" it with the fluid; but "Type F" tranny fluid is a waxy based (kinda like some furniture waxes, fluid that preserves the metal and wood and gradually "waxes" the stock. It seems to harden the stock finish and does clean off the OUTSIDE of the gun. I've been using it for years to add luster to the stocks and protect the metal. Just make sure you get "Type F" which is the paraffin based product. It doesn't take a lot and you can wipe the excess right off or let it stand a day or two before wiping off. Actually a rag dampened with type F works a lot like a silicone gun rag.
 
what Hanshi said....I use it on my long guns with good effect clean with good ole soap and water though
 
I have an aversion to using stuff that comes in plastic bottles from the shelves of Wal-Mart on my muzzle loaders. :nono:
Jest don't seem right.
But, for an old codger, I can be (a little bit) open minded.
Can someone tell me what type F tranny fluid really is made of?
 
Mix up some moosemilk and it takes about 10-12 patches to clean the gun. 1 for the lock, about 5-6 for the barrel, then wipe down with ballistol patch lock first, then rest of gun. Dry barrel with dry patch, then use ballistol patches on both sides, leave ramrod with one new ballistol patch in powder chamber.Done.
Ballistol is cleared to oil food machines and can be used on the skin for wound desinfection. I rather have that on my fingers than chemicals made for interior car parts.....
 
rjpalmer said:
TVM has a how to article on their website detailing how to clean a muzzleloader with transmission fluid. I've never heard of this before. Does anyone use this method?
And that's also mentioned on a little flyer which is included with every gun TVM has built for me.
I'm not challenging what an obviously experienced, successful business suggests...but the way I clean & lube mine has worked perfectly for years, so no, I've never switched and tried the transmission fluid approach.
 
:hmm: Type F is made from pixie dust dissolved in mink oil squeezed from the large mojo mink....or maybe they use the whole pixie, I just don't know :idunno: .

All seriousness aside it reminds me of a guy at a BBQ that refused "chitlins" on the grounds he didn't eat NUTHIN that came from the inside of an animal. So he just ordered scrambled eggs instead. :dead:
 
wow- i didn't know that - about the Type F being sort of like a silicon rag (i sat that a lot when i'm on this forum)

thanks for the post!
 
Can't speak to the use of transmission fluid in/on black powder weapons, but it's a good choice for cartridge guns of more modern persuasion. I've used, "Ed's Red" for years with great satisfaction. Here's the formula: Equal parts, by volume of the following: Acetone, Dextron lll Transmission fluid, turpentine or paint thinner, and kerosene. Cheap, effective and ya' made it yourself. Ed Harris of The Rifleman magazine's "Dope Bag" came came up with the stuff for cleaning a lot of guns as cheaply as possible. He worked with an organic chemist to get it right. ..Rod
 
I use the current Dexron IV transmission fluid not to clean, but as a rust preventative. Dexron was originally formulated to replace the Whale Oil type transmission fluid previously used. My son is old enough now that I don't have to worry about him getting into the gun stuff.

LD
 
Think I'll try that Type F silicone rag trick right now. I have a bunch of guns with Friendship browning and I need to do a final cleaning on them.

Many Klatch
 
rjpalmer said:
TVM has a how to article on their website detailing how to clean a muzzleloader with transmission fluid. I've never heard of this before. Does anyone use this method?

Only water will remove the corrosion causing elements in BP. This is also true for Pyrodex. So the CLEANER needs to be water based at least and plain water is usually the best choice.
Oils are for PRESERVATION.
ATF is a light weight hydraulic fluid, SAE 10 or thinner, with a additive package to allow service in automatic transmissions.

Dan
 
Type-F ATF is NOT for cleaning BP fouling; TVM is very clear on this point. It is only for external corrosion protection and the cleaning/polishing of barrel and stock. I've used it for years and have found it superior for this purpose. I'm not even sure I'd try it as a lubrication oil on locks, etc, since there are so many fine lubes made expressly for that purpose.

I have no real idea of its composition and have never checked to find out. It has a rather "waxy" feel to it and gives the stock a nice "sheen". It absolutely does inhibit corrosion, I've discovered.
 
Sperm whale oil was originally used in ATF until the mid 70s but is is basically an hydrolic oil
with additives for lubricity, corrosion etc.
Type F "FORD' is made with a parrafin base. It may be fine for the outside of your weapon but there probably are better protectants available.
 
TBone said:
Sperm whale oil was originally used in ATF until the mid 70s but is is basically an hydrolic oil
with additives for lubricity, corrosion etc.
Type F "FORD' is made with a parrafin base. It may be fine for the outside of your weapon but there probably are better protectants available.

A large number of motor oils are paraffin oils as well.
Its a petroleum oil and paraffin is not even the best base stock.
Further more, while ATF has oxidation inhibitors so does motor oil and every other oil used in automotive applications.
The primary difference between ATFs is in the friction modifiers that help control clutch engagement.
"F" is a anomaly it think, its also very old school.
So ANY motor oil will prevent rust, as will any gun oil. Thinking "F" atf is designed to leave a waxy film is probably an error ATFs are designed with a high detergent level to keep transmissions clean. Given this I would not use it on firearms especially the wood.
Yes, it will prevent rust, but there are a host of other things that work as good or better including SAE5w30 motor oil which is surely cheaper if you want to use automotive products.
I use Amsoil 0w30 synthetic for lubing parts that need a light oil. Its left over in the bottles from oil changes.
I use G-96 Gun Treatment for rust.
This is beef tallow from my swivel breech rifle which was loaded for 2 months. No rust.
It was carefully refined by boiling 3-4 times in clear water and allowing it to cool and then removing the solidified tallow to reboil in clean water.
P1030719.jpg


It does not require magic to prevent rust.
Dan
 
Thanks all. I'm glad I was persistent in asking about this subject. From what I have learned, transmission fluid will never be used in, or on, my guns in any manner. No way, no how.
I have an aversion to using stuff that comes in plastic bottles from the shelves of Wal-Mart on my muzzle loaders anyhow. This reinforces that aversion.
 
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