Ok. So here's the beef! As some might recall, I just inherited a T/C New Englander in 54 calibre. The barrel has some rust near the muzzle and as I got it used and it was 'ridden hard and put away wet' I want to do a thorough cleaning. I have a 54 calibre bronze bore brush and swab put away for me to pick up tomorrow. I cannot remove the breech plug to clean, but is it safe to or is it possible to push the bore brush down the barrel then have it reverse directions in the barrel, as in push in and pull out. I am used to going completely through then back again. I also know, and I will set the breech of the barrel in warm soapy water and use the brush and or jag with patches to clean after a scrub is done. Unfortunately they do not sell nylon brushes here, so that option is out. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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Cleaning Sidelock Muzzleloader
- Thread starter NEW222
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Yes you can use a brush.....however there is a good chance it might break if its a cheap Cabelas type brush...You will also need a solid cleaning rod (non aluminum)without a swivel so you can turn the brush when it gets to the bottom....(Turning makes it easier to reverse direction)....You will also want to keep the brush from entering the patent breech as this will increase the chance of sticking..
Clean as much fouling from the barrel before using the brush.....I would tie some mason line to it in case it gets stuck or breaks.
Rust makes brushing even harder......
Both 0000 steel wool and green scotch brite pads can be used with a muzzleloader jag in place of using a brush to remove the rust. with less chance of getting stuck.
Just my opinions.....others will be along with theirs...
Clean as much fouling from the barrel before using the brush.....I would tie some mason line to it in case it gets stuck or breaks.
Rust makes brushing even harder......
Both 0000 steel wool and green scotch brite pads can be used with a muzzleloader jag in place of using a brush to remove the rust. with less chance of getting stuck.
Just my opinions.....others will be along with theirs...
bubba.50
Barefoot Hillbilly
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after a couple bad experiences I no longer use bronze brushes in any of my guns. if I need anything that aggressive a little steel-wool or scotchbrite on a jag works much better for me.
if you use a brush pay close attention to what Clyde says. never use the cheap T/C or any other brush with the center coil crimped into an aluminum end. get one with a brass end that the center coil threads through and use a solid rod so you can give it a twist to get the bristles started back the other way.
luck to ya & have a good'en, bubba.
if you use a brush pay close attention to what Clyde says. never use the cheap T/C or any other brush with the center coil crimped into an aluminum end. get one with a brass end that the center coil threads through and use a solid rod so you can give it a twist to get the bristles started back the other way.
luck to ya & have a good'en, bubba.
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New222,
Remember this...there are products out there sold for inline muzzleloaders that are not designed for use in traditional muzzleloaders, even though they may sound or look the same.
Remember this...there are products out there sold for inline muzzleloaders that are not designed for use in traditional muzzleloaders, even though they may sound or look the same.
Rick Boylan
45 Cal.
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:hatsoff:
When I use a metal bore brush I use a well worn one so it isn't so tight as to get stuck. It also helps to twist the brush sideways before you pull it out so the brush bristles aren't trying to reverse themselves. That's what causes it to get stuck.
robinsroost
50 Cal.
New222, I think you would be better served to use a nylon bristle brush instead of brass. The nylon will bend the bristles to pull the brush back out. Wrap some steel wool or copper choir boy strands around the brush first. The green scotch brite pad idea also works. Keep yer powder dry..............robin
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Bookmark this page, if you are planing to use a bronze brush.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/300590/fromsearch/1/tp/1/
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Ok. So I went to Cabelas today as I had them put a set of Traditions Bore Brush and Swab, as well as 100 Hornady Round Balls away for me. So I get there and buy my goodies. Nothing big, but I just wanted to share a picture of what I got now.
It's not you - it's a problem with Photobucket.New222 said:
hanshi
Cannon
That is the only type bronze brush that should be used in a ML. :thumbsup:
Ok. So I just finished cleaning this devil! Started out with about a minute of scrubbing with the bore brush wetted with the soap and water solution. Water turned brown quick! So, I figured I'd follow up with a cotton patch that I use in my other muzzleloaders. The gun came with a .54 calibre loading and cleaning jag, marked on it. Wet the patch, place over the muzzle then pushed in. It stayed right at the bottom. Trouble. So I put a 10/32 screw threaded all the way in and clamped a pair of vice grips on the screw and hammered the vise grips to remove the patch. I had to clamp the barrel in a vise with a leather glove wrapped around it. Back to the wet brush again for about 50-60 strokes. Tried the patch and jag again. Stuck again. Removed again. Tried another wet patch, only this time with my 50 calibre jag. Worked good. A few patches somehow came dislodged and had to resort to the worm for removal, but overall worked good. After doing this procedure over for about twenty minutes called it good. Used a heat gun to dry up good. Followed up with a couple of T/C cleaning patches and finished it off with a patch soaked in 99% alcohol.. I then looked down the bore, only to find horror. The whole bore is full of rust, and the lands and grooves are barely visible. They are there, but not what I am used to seeing. Like I said, there is pitting right from the muzzle to the breach. The muzzle rifling is almost non-existent. I thought it was weird that the bronze bore brush was literally falling to the breach by itself, and it is a 54 calibre bore brush. So, in short, the barrel is now as clean as it will get. I am still hoping that it will at least still shoot a patched round ball with somewhat accuracy. It will just be a plinker unless it proves me different. Thanks for reading this and listening to me ramble on.
Usually, if a dry patch gets stuck in the bore when it is on a cleaning jag, pouring a little water down the bore and giving it time to soak into the patch will loosen it so it pulls out easily.
Of course, that leaves a wet bore but that's better than using vise grips on the ramrod and pounding it out.
As you found, a undersize jag will often work to run the dry patches down the bore to dry it out.
Hopefully your gun will shoot patched roundballs nicely but don't be surprised when the patches get torn all to hell and the gun is doing good to hole 5 shots on a paper plate at 50 yards.
That's what a really badly rusted bore will do.
Of course, that leaves a wet bore but that's better than using vise grips on the ramrod and pounding it out.
As you found, a undersize jag will often work to run the dry patches down the bore to dry it out.
Hopefully your gun will shoot patched roundballs nicely but don't be surprised when the patches get torn all to hell and the gun is doing good to hole 5 shots on a paper plate at 50 yards.
That's what a really badly rusted bore will do.
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New222 said:
Nope!....Not even close...
I have a Barrel that was so rusted You couldn't see the rifling after I wore out a brush cleaning it.
Brushes, patches, shooting, steel wool, acid, lapping compound and a whole lot of sweat.....shoot good enough to squirrel hunt with now....But in all honesty....If I had it to do again I would send it to Bobby Hoyt.
