Cap Box Lid Spring Placement

[clayfeld]

Hi, Guys-
I know it's been discussed before, but I can't find the reference using the
search engine and I need to know how to shape the cam under a plains style
capbox lid and how to position the spring. Any help? Do I recall correctly
that no lid catch spring is needed?

I'm building a "bespoke" rifle, that is, one ordered to specifics supplied by
the purchaser- (that's also me). It's based on a Pecatonica Ohio stock and a
7/8" .40 cal GM barrel. It has an L&R warranted precussion lock, double set
triggers, three ramrod pipes, a highly modified "Golden Age" buttplate (the
stock Ohio is way too small), a Hawken style toe plate, a poured pewter fore-
end cap and the previously mentioned cap box. I know that's a bit of a jumble,
but we have to respect the customer's wishes!

It's also going to have a shop-made, 3/4" diameter, more-or-less era-correct
full-length scope of about ten power to function as fixed glass sights for these
old eyes. (Ah, to actually *see* the outline of the bullseye at 100 yards again!).

Thanks for letting me ramble on. Don't forget to tell me how to mount and spring-
fit the cap box lid.

Clay in San Jose

 

[paulvallandigham]

Clay: There are sources for patch box lids, that come with springs. Have you looked for them, and talked to suppliers? Have you considered NOT having a Patch box? If you have a pretty piece of wood, all that metal tends to cover up the beautiful grain of the stock you paid extra bucks for,NO? And, exactly what are you going to use that patch box to hold, that you can't put someplace else?

I ask these as rhetorical questions, not as a challenge, simply because I had to ask myself the same questions when I was given the option of having a patch box put on my Tennessee Poor Boy rifle years ago. I chose to forego the patch box, and Have received many compliments on the beautiful stock on my gun, since.

 

[clayfeld]

Hi, Paul-

This project is another in the series of my self-education process in rifle-building and actually starts
with an older ordered-by-mistake plain maple Ohio stock. A little coverage by a cap box will not hurt at
all and I actually like the look of the Ohio/Plains boxes. I know the spring mounts in the floor of the
and presses on the extension of the pivot block of the lid to keep it closed, but I have forgotten how the
should be shaped, and the fact that it is sometimes called a "cam" suggests a special shape.

Clay

 

[paulvallandigham]

Have you checked Track of the Wolf and looked at their Cap box kits?
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(0.../partList.aspx?catID=14&subID=151&styleID=582

Since I don't know what capbox is appropriate for your rifle, other than capboxes are supposed to be round, rather than rectangular, and I don't know what that spring you are trying to describe might look like, I suggest you look at track's kits, and capboxes, and then call them on their 800 number to ask about the part you want. IF its shown in one of their catalog pages, they will give you the site so you can pull it up on your computer, and use it as a sample for making your own.


I looked in my Dixie GW catalog, and while they have an assortment of Capboxes, and Patch boxes, they don't show pictures of most of the springs and cams for them.

I see where R.E. Davis CO. sells a Late Ohio Percussion Cap Box, but I don't see anything about the springs or cams. It might be worth it giving them a call, however.
http://www.redaviscompany.com/1310.html

Tennessee Valley Manufacturing also sells Capboxes, and patchboxes, and mentions springs that go with them. You might give them a call.
http://www.tennesseevalleymanufacturing.com/catalog.php?category=patch_boxes

 

[BLAHMAN]

I make a curly-cue and tuck the flat end up under the finial....for spring stock I use old leaf rake "fingers", catches and flat springs form old washer/dryers...whatever I can dig up.

I heat 'em up, bend 'em to shape, drill any holes then heat, quench, polish and temper....really simple.

 

[clayfeld]

Does the spring press up on the back of the lid pivot block to keep the box *closed* or on
the underside of the lid forward of the pivot to keep it open?

Thanks,

Clay