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BP revolver cylinder pin lube

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phoenix511

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What do you folks use to lube the cylinder pin on Colt 1860 and Remington 1858?

The Colt version has lube grooves. The Remington 1858 has a small rod. The Rem binds after 6 or so shots, but the Colt goes for a few more.

Advice appreciated.
 
Wet Willie said:
What do you folks use to lube the cylinder pin on Colt 1860 and Remington 1858?

The Colt version has lube grooves. The Remington 1858 has a small rod. The Rem binds after 6 or so shots, but the Colt goes for a few more.

Advice appreciated.

Well, Sir, as a comparative noob to all this - I didn't get serious about BP handgun shooting until 1976 - I've been using the same five pound tub of Shakespeare spinner reel grease for the last twenty years or so - there's still some left, too.

As far as I'm concerned, it's now traditional - in my house anyhow.

Guess unless you want to render down a bear until all you gots left is the grease then any of the modern bear-grease substitutes might punch your ticket.

Anyhow, I guess that I might just have gotten things wrong after all. None of my pistols bind up - even after a guest day on the range where we might have shot a couple of hundred shots or so. All I do is to wipe it over after each cylinder-load, reload, and carry on. So perhaps some of you BP mavens out there could advise me how to get the authentic bind-up to make my BP revolver shooting more realistic - along with a few traditional cuss-words to go along with the bind-up?

tac
Supporter of the cape Meares Lighthouse Restoration Fund
 
Guys use all kinds of grease for the cylinder pin and arbor. I use the grease cookies I make. I've played around with adding a very shallow groove in the Remington cylinder pin to hold grease, it helps a little, I can get 3-4 cylinders before I need to re-lube it. YMMV
 
You can try one of a number of greases, both traditional and modern. Lately, I have been using Mobil Synthetic grease for the arbor. It is not petroleum based, so guess one COULD use it for over-cylinder use also unless you are a purist. For informal range work it works fine.
 
Never-Seez. A little goes a long way and it's rated for extremely high temps.
 
Hey Mike good point but thats nasty stuff I think I still have that stuck to half of the tools in my rollaway box Every thing I pick up for days has that on it!!! :surrender: HA HA HA HA
and that reminds me of to much of work
 
It is a problem to live with in Colts and Remeys. The problem was solved by Rogers & Spencer. This late entry Cap & Ball has a front chamber deflection flange. These guns will shoot for ever and not bind no lube needed. This is the same flange used on the ROA. The ROA will not bind no matter how much you shoot it. This does not stop accuracy from falling off as the barrel starts to foul. It seem most C&P handguns foul after a few cylinders of fire.
 
jimbo453 said:
Hey Mike good point but thats nasty stuff I think I still have that stuck to half of the tools in my rollaway box Every thing I pick up for days has that on it!!! :surrender: HA HA HA HA
and that reminds me of to much of work
Yep...Get a little on something and it smears easily. You need a degreaser to remove it, non-chlorinated brake cleaner does a great job. Thats what I mean by a little goes a long way. It does the trick though.
 
I Got My Lube Formula From An old American Rifleman Circa 1950's Magizine. Beeswax + Mutton Tallow+ Lard Or Crisco. It Is "Taditional" :thumbsup: in Nature and Can Be Used To Lube Almost Anything You Can Point A Pistol At. I Can Shoot Maybe 120 Rounds W/out Any Trouble. Using A "snythetic" Oil ? Why Not Just shoot A Glock And Be Done With it ? :shocked2:
 
redwing said:
... The problem was solved by Rogers & Spencer. This late entry Cap & Ball has a front chamber deflection flange. These guns will shoot for ever and not bind no lube needed. This is the same flange used on the ROA....
For those who don't own a Rogers & Spencer or a ROA the deflection flange mentioned is a small diameter cylindrical projection that at first looks like thick washer sticking out of the front of the cylinder. It fills the space between the face of the cylinder and the frame of the gun and it is actually a part of the cylinder.
This puts the rotating joint between the cylinder and the frame about 3/32 ahead of the rear of the barrel and the face of the cylinder.

There is also a open space between the bottom of the barrel and the top of this deflector which gives the high pressure gas somewhere to escape to.

While the Remingtons frame covers the cylinder pin there is almost no open area between the bottom of the barrel and the cylinder pin.
The joint is directly in line with the rear of the barrel so any gas that blows along the cylinders face towards the pin has little choice other than to contaminate the pin.

Rogers & Spencers solution to this problem is simple and direct. Too bad Mr Colt and Mr Remington didn't think of it.
 
nilo52 said:
Using A "snythetic" Oil ? Why Not Just shoot A Glock And Be Done With it ? :shocked2:
A little extreme don't you think, equating using a little synthetic lube on a C&B revolver to shooting a modern semi-auto. :youcrazy: BTW...I own a Glock. Great gun. :thumbsup:
 

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