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Bore Discoloration

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SgtErv

50 Cal.
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Ive probably shot somewhere close to 500-700 shots out of an early Lancaster with a Rice barrel, with a few blanks thrown in there too.

I clean with water, then WD 40, then a little barricade. Using a tight fitting jag, I wipe the bore until my patches are clean.

At first it disoclored a tad, this spring it's gotten dull. There's a brownish grey in it now, and the metal as a whole is just not shiny inside. This appears to be layers of Barricade or WD40, but it's deep in there. I'm not entirely sure. It has had some flash rust before, and I've always gotten it out. Again, I swab until I get clean white patches.

The jag is super tight. The patches are big enough that I get lots of resistance and have to use a ramrod puller. After every few cleanings I'll also polish the inside with some 0000 steel wool wrapped in the jag, and sometimes use a bronze brush.

Is there any type of cleaner I can use to get this out? There are a thousand ways to skin this cat, but I'd like to use the least aggressive. Anyone else have this going in? How'd you handle it? Is this just natural aging?

(I apologize, but I can't get a good photo of it)

Thanks in advance. Ive been a tad scarce in the forum lately, been a busy fellow
 
We do the best we can but reenacting and firing blanks is hard on these guns. Much harder in my opinion versus live ball. There is so much fouling from shooting blanks.

Like Blackhand I think you are OK but a regular session of live ball may help also.
 
I was thinking that a session at the range would help. Helps everything in fact haha
 
Remember too, that the bore of your Rice barrel isn't lined with the same metal as the bore of your M4..., so it's going to appear different over time. :wink: It may annoy the heck out of you..., since from Basic your are drilled with "dull bore = bad". In the case of your service rifle, that is true, but not necessarily true for your ML barrel.

LD
 
Very true. I can live with it as long as I'm getting clean patches when I'm cleaning.

This is reassuring. Figured I'd check with folks with more experience with a gun's aging process
 
SgtErv said:
Very true. I can live with it as long as I'm getting clean patches when I'm cleaning.
Even so, you may get patches with a grayish color when cleaning and no amount of wiping will remove this color. Just ensure the barrel is clean, dry, lubed and go about your business.
 
My guess, and it is just a WAG based on the information that you provided, is that the dull appearance is likely caused by the Barricade. Barricade is good stuff and I use it myself but it has one property that makes it a very good rust preventive and that is that as it sits, it thickens and becomes a film of grease. What you are seeing inside your bore is possibly that film of grease.

Let me address one part of my answer that may draw comments from others and that is that Barricade has more than just that one property that makes it a good rust preventive. It's good stuff but in using it, you need to keep in mind that it, unlike most other gun oils, will thicken to a grease with time. If you use it, you will need to remove it thoroughly from all parts of your gun before shooting it. It can gum up the inside of your lock. That's not a problem, just flush your lock with something like automotive break or carburetor cleaner in a spray can. Then just add a drop of oil to the working surfaces and you are good to go.
 
I use WD-40 during cleaning and it won't build up in layers or cause discoloration. I have never used Barricade so I can't comment there but I wouldn't worry about the discoloration if you get clean patches at the end of the process. Like Colorado Clyde, I advise dropping the use of the steel wool and I wouldn't use a bronze brush either except in extreme conditions.
 
Like others stated it's most likely the Barricade film. I too use Barricade in my guns and get a film in the barrel but mine is more brown colored. I've been using Barricade with great results, I have never found rust in any of my bores. WD40 is great too but for long term protection I choose Barricade. I wipe the bore with a couple patches wet with denatured alcohol prior to shooting to remove the film. The way I look at it being a retired painter. It's a coating protecting my investment. It's a proven fact coated metal items last longer than un coated metal items. :thumbsup:
 
Most of my storage is with WD-40. (please, never mind the comments, it works for me) I have never used Barricade as I have never found a gun shop within 200 miles of me that even knows what it is.
 
Thank so for the comments fellas. I sort of suspected it was Barricade. I'd left some on a patch once and it dried to nearly the same color as what's in my bore.

Roger that on the steel wool, Clyde. Never really thought of it, but doubt that a couple times wouldn't be bad - many times over a long period of time would though.
 
I think you will see this......
As you clean with a white patch, as the patch comes up the bore approaching the muzzle, look look closely and you will see the bore.reflecting the white patch. This is good.

Although the bore appears gray it's still shiny and reflects. In my opinion that's just age and use. A bore light will tell the tale also....likely it will still shine like a new penny with a bore light.

Automotive......most oils do little to prevent rust....grease on the other hand does but who uses axle grease?
Olive oil....a waste of time unless rendered with wax into a grease . Same with ATF.
Heavier mz wax based moose snot old CVa patch grease and natural or non petroleum grease mixtures work OK.

Of the petroleum based oils.....WD and 3 in 1 oil do good with the "gun oils" all doing poorly or less than expected.

What ever you use, be sure to check it a few days after application. Always clean it out before the next session.
 
It seems to me that it's not unusual for bores to eventually get where they have a dull appearance; especially barrels that have been fired many times. As part of my cleaning routine I use denatured alcohol and WD40. I also protect with Barricade or sometimes BreakFree CLP. When I'm finished with cleaning the bores are pretty shiny with some shiny as a mirror. The shiniest bores seem to be the Rice barrels.

I agree, shed the steel wool and bronze brush. The coarsest thing I use in my bores is the occasional ScotchBrite patch. I wasn't aware Barricade would build up but I do use quite a bit of alcohol patches; I'll now keep an eye out for it.

Also, after a good cleaning and with the gun put away for a week or so, I can often get a grayish patch that's wet with WD40. That stuff seems to draw out stains that weren't there before!! So I wouldn't worry too much about it as long as you clean it well and use rust protection.
 
:eek:ff 54ball said: but who uses axle grease?

Dog got sumpthin in tail, near chewed it off. was making appt to have vet dock (not good on a german sheperd) when Pop says "lets try one more thing".... he globbed on axle grease n we wrapped tail and watched dog so he couldnt take it off all day. Hair grew back just fine. So on a dogs tail axle grease...in yer barrel :idunno:
 
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I have "repaired" dozens of modern firearms that had WD 40 used in them. They do indeed make a hard varnish type finish, that is very hard to remove. I also saw a report on various oils and lubricants. WD40 has a habit of actually getting in to the pores of the barrel, allowing fouling to go deeper. Wish I could remember where I saw the comparison charts, it's been years ago.
 
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