bluing lock

[Nav]

I looked several ways and couldn’t find the answer. Maybe this is a simple/dumb question…

When you are rusting your lock parts in preparation for the boil, do you try not to get any rust on the face of the frizzen, threads of the hammer screw, and or contact surfaces, or do you just do the entirety of the parts and rub back anywhere you don’t want to blue? As I said, this may be so elementary no one has asked, but I’m wondering if I should use some release compound on the threads…?

 

[54ball]

You need to take the lock apart. Use a proper mainspring vise.
There's no need to blue the face of the frizzen. It will probably get some finish on it but the frizzen face will need to be polished.
Do not blue the guts of the lock or springs.
You can "fire blue" or "temper blue" the screws. Heat with a torch until desired color, drop them in oil and water to set color.
I would not blue the cock or flint screw I would fire blue that one too.
Basically, you blue the lock plate, the cock and frizzen. The springs and guts you leave alone. The screws can be fire blued or left white.
Make sure the inside of the lock plate is cleaned and polished after bluing.

 

[IanH]

Exactly what he said^^^^^^

 

[54ball]

I can't stress enough to use a mainspring vise. Do not use vise grips. If you break a spring, you'll end up getting a mainspring vise with your new spring, so use the right tool for this. If it's an odd ball lock, you may have trouble finding a spring. So, use a mainspring vise.
You may want to take the lock apart over a large basin or bowl. The fly is very tiny and is very, very easy to lose. Have Ziplock bags for the lock parts. Some will even stick the fly to a piece of tape fold it over and put it in the bag or...tape the fly to the tumbler.

 

[rchas]

Rust blue is a heck of a lot more durable than a fire blue. When rust bluing a lock, I rust blue all the screws, frizzen, cock and lockplate. I have never had any issues by doing this; and the striking face of the frizzen will take care of itself as soon as you start shooting it. As 54Ball said, you do need to take apart the lock.

 

[Nav]

Thanks for the replies. I was mostly concerned with keeping the rusting solution off threads, frizzen face, etc., but it sounds like it isn’t as big a concern as I thought. I think I’m going to blue as much as I can, and only fire the small screws.