• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Block plane

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Crow#21957

50 Cal.
Joined
Dec 26, 2022
Messages
1,494
Reaction score
915
Location
Mooreland Indiana
Is this a useful tool for working a barrel channel to get barrel in. If it is I would like to know what brand,,size ,and other specs you recommend. I'm looking to buy any helpful tools I can afford. I have. Files and chisels covered. Just need to get good at sharpening. My taps ,,does,, and drill bits are ready for replacement. And no I don't want to sharpen what I have. I will later but want new to start with. Any help you wish to give is greatly appreciated.
 
Hi,
A block plane is very useful for gun building. Here is a my choice based on a lot of experience.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/sho...nes/block/47881-veritas-low-angle-block-plane
I use my block plane to plane flat facets along the fore stock that remove a lot of wood fast and evenly. Then the profile is rounded.
rUDKhZW.jpg


dave
 
Hi,
For inletting a barrel, you can modify vintage wooden planes. The most useful is a 3/4" plane with a flat blade that is ground into an octagon or round depending on the barrel channel to by planed. Cut the nose of the plane back closer to the blade so you can reach into the breech area and glue a thin piece of hard maple over the front to add strength to the nose. These planes are only useful for smoothing the channel not aggressively cutting it deeper or to shape. For that you need chisels.

dave
 
That’s what I do. There is a huge antique mall near me with a large selection of old wooden planes, I bought a bunch to modify for different jobs. But do your research BEFORE you whittle or grind away on your old plane- it might be worth big bucks!
 
I agree with Dave person in using a small trim plane in shaping the exterior; I am also partial to spokeshaves. I have an antique router plane that I often use to help with barrel channels. The router plane gives me a consistent depth of cut for the initial groove to 1/2 the width of a flat, then a center groove to 1/2 of the barrel width. The half octogon is formed by cutting the waste with a 1/4 or 3/8 chisel. I haven't tried, but I don't think it would be too hard to make one. I have made myself some blades with different widths
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230607_194214.jpg
    IMG_20230607_194214.jpg
    4.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20230607_194253.jpg
    IMG_20230607_194253.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20230607_194214.jpg
    IMG_20230607_194214.jpg
    4.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20230607_194317.jpg
    IMG_20230607_194317.jpg
    3.9 MB · Views: 0
planes are really great to use. I use a scrub plane, router plane, a 3/4" rabbet plane that I made round to shape the barrel channel, and a spokeshave. simple to use, quiet, fast, and makes shavings not dust.
 
I also am a firm believer in the use of hand planes for stock work. I have 2 of the Stanley small trim planes and one Kunz palm plane without the handle, two Stanley block planes one low angle the other standard, a Wood River #1, a Veritas small bevel-up plane. I use ALL of them during my builds at one time or another. The key to a good hand plane is a properly sharpened iron (blade). Even the small inexpensive trim planes with their thin blades can do wonders with a SHARP iron (blade). I start flattening the backs of the iron with a 600 diamond plate then do the bevel (I use a Veritas Mark II honing guide). I work up to a fine polish using a selection of Sharpton Glass Stones #2000, #4000 or #8000. :thumb: ;)

 
I agree with Dave person in using a small trim plane in shaping the exterior; I am also partial to spokeshaves. I have an antique router plane that I often use to help with barrel channels. The router plane gives me a consistent depth of cut for the initial groove to 1/2 the width of a flat, then a center groove to 1/2 of the barrel width. The half octogon is formed by cutting the waste with a 1/4 or 3/8 chisel. I haven't tried, but I don't think it would be too hard to make one. I have made myself some blades with different widths
Old tools don't mean bad tools. Those old guys might not have had a lot of book learning but they were sure long on common sense.
 
And no I don't want to sharpen what I have. I will later but want new to start with. Any help you wish to give is greatly appreciated.
You will still have to check any new tools for sharpness and likely touch them up before use. Even if sharp when new, tools will need constant maintenance with use to stay sharp. If you don’t want to or cannot sharpen tools that you already have you may have chosen the wrong hobby.
 
Back
Top