BLO

[Jason Lewis]

i've been thinking about something i've read in the grinslad fowler book about BLO being the least protective and was probably not used. here is the quote " a product probably not used on quality guns was linseed oil or boiled linseed oil. Bob Flexner in Understanding Wood Finishing writes, "of all finishes except wax, linseed oil is the least protective. it's a soft, thin, finish, so it provides no significant barrier against scratching. it's also easily penetrated by water and water vapor. Liquid water will work through a linseed oil finish and cause a smudge within five to ten seconds. water vapor will pass through a linseed oil finish almost as if it weren't there" For these reasons, linseed oil is an unsatisfactory exterior coating for stocks although it may have been used on military muskets when low cost was desired and quality was not a great consideration."

mr. grinslad goes on to state that "examination of existing guns today reveals that frequently gunmakers of that era applied stain and varnish to their stocks. former noted craftsman and researcher John Bivens believed that shiny finishes were popular on furniture at that time because the reflective surfaces made the pieces more attractive by candlelight. He felt that it would be logical to assume that the same finish might also be used on guns. the few surviving guns that have not been cleaned, revarnished or waxed show evidence of old and weathered varnish as the finish, supporting his theory."

Researchers Knight and Mende suggest that after the staining with aqua fortis, "The finish applied over the stained gunstock was probably a varnish obtained by cooking an oil, such as linseed oil, with natural resins." apparently the natural resins might have been juniper gum, or gum mastic.

so the point of this topic is are we way off base in our modern use of BLO? should we be mixing it with natural resins to create a varnish? should we be leaning more for a shiny finish on stocks and is that really a modern thing at all? what do you guys think? that's all i'm saying about this i'm hoping to start a lively debate and learn from your comments.

 

[tg]

my guess is that we use BLO differently and our BLO is different than in the past, there is no reason to believe that all builders use a shiney finish as any finish can be toned down.I like a BLO marine spar/marine spar varnish/ turp mix and rub/wipe it down between coats to cut the shine I think Eric Kettenberg has some info on original finishes on his site if I recall.

 

[Mike Brooks]

so the point of this topic is are we way off base in our modern use of BLO?

Yep.

 

[LaBonte]

Here's the link to Mr. Kettenburg's article on period firearms finishes...... http://www.muzzleblasts.com/archives/vol5no2/articles/mbo52-1.shtml

Tried and True makes a similar linseed oil based varnish that's a bit softer and doesn't have the lead drier - it makes a good start though with not as much muss or fuss. To get a more period varnish all you need to do is add more resin (various types are available from several vendors) and the white lead drier - when adding more varnish and the lead drier you only need to heat enough to integrate them, boiling is not necessary.
If you seal first with buttonlac or seedlac then your get a very good water as well as mosture vapor resistant finish.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Tung oil ( A chinese nut oil ) was often used (and still is ) in many oil finishes. It makes a natural "varnish" over time with several coats rubbed in. I use a lot of it for cherry furniture! :hmm: ( Cherry is the wood that I use... do you remember that papaphrasing of the old hippy song ? If so you are as old as I am ))

 

[Zonie]

Speaking of varnishes, my copy of the Encyclopedia Britannica says:
"...By the 16th century, varnishes were used on furniture and in home finishing. What may be called the modern varnish era dates from the late 18th century, when the first printing of Jean Felix Watin's formulary appeared (about 1772). Few technological changes were made during the following century, so that a varnish manufacturer of 1900 used formulas and procedures hardly different from those described by Watin. At the beginning of the 20th century, tung oil and other drying oils began to be used as replacements for linseed oil, (emphasis added) and synthetic resins began to replace the naturally occurring resins.

Although Tung oil may have been known prior to the 20th century this would seem to indicate that its use in 18th and 19th century firearms would have been very limited if it were used at all.

 

[Va.Manuf.06]

Zonie is correct. Tung oil didn't really come into it's own until the WW2 era, especially in use as a finish for firearms.

 

[Stophel]

Modern, store-bought "boiled" linseed oil is NOT boiled.

Linseed oil works fine as a finish IF you use properly prepared oil, and IF you apply it properly. Flooding and soaking the surface of a stock with modern "boiled" linseed oil is not the way to get a good finish.

I believe that S.O.P. at the time would be to fill the grain with a shellac/seedlac/buttonlac and then put a coat of oil varnish on top. The oil varnish being made with...boiled linseed oil with some resins added for gloss and hardness.