Birchwood Barricade, Less Fouling?

[LongrifleDoc]

I seem to remember a post here where it was stated that Birchwood Casey Barricade was not only a good bore protector but also tended to give less fouling than other petroleum products when used with black powder. Anyone have any experience to support this?

 

[BrownBear]

Can't even guess because I strip it completely from the bore before ever loading to shoot.

 

[Zonie]

Although I didn't test Birchwood Casey Barricade, I did test a number of different oils to see if they formed hard fouling.

My tests seemed to indicate that very wet areas of oil caused a lot of hard fouling to develop.
Very thin layers of oil (like wiped on and then wiped off with a clean rag, leaving some oil behind) seemed to have little effect on the fouling left by burned black powder.

With that in mind and knowing that Barricade (and the older version of it known as Sheath) almost totally "drys to the touch" on the surface tells me that leaving a layer of Barricade in the bore and firing the gun would not create any hard fouling at all.

This is also the results I've seen with my rifles.

I've used both Birchwood Sheath and Barricade for years and I never "swab" the bores with anything to remove it before loading.

I've never noticed any oil made hard fouling in my rifles bores.

 

[LongrifleDoc]

Thanks Zonie:
That was pretty much what I remembered. But, how long does it take for the Barricade to "dry"?

 

[Zonie]

Not long.

If you have some, wipe it onto your barrel or some other piece of metal.

Notice that the surface looks wet.

Come back in an hour and the surface will no longer look wet and rubbing it with your finger will show no change in the looks of the oil and there won't be any visible trace of it on your skin.
There might be some odor on your finger but IMO, the oil is essentially dry.

 

[LongrifleDoc]

Thanks again Zonie:
That's the answer I was looking for. Seems to me that the Barricade would be ideal on a long duration hunt to provide rust protection and also allow for low residue once the weapon is fired.

 

[Zonie]

It is a great long term storage oil and as I said, it doesn't seem to add anything to make hard fouling.

Using it won't reduce the amount of fouling though.

The amount of fouling your powder makes will still be the same. :hmm:

 

[LongrifleDoc]

I didn't expect it to actually reduce the fouling just not make for difficult cleaning in the field. My favorite rust inhibitor is RIG but I suspect RIG would make a real fouling mess.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I use Barricade (Sheath) but wipe the bore with 91% alcohol before loading.

 

[azmntman]

the oil is essentially dry.[/quote]


Not an engineer but was a printer. Ol boss (who fired me, the last time, for not going duck hunting with him), taught me Ink is nothing but oil with colors. He said it NEVER dries. To prove it he grabbed an old dollar bill (not any wheres near a newer bill) and with pressure rubbed it on a roll of newsprint. By golly the green came off the old bill! So maybe he was right and oil never dries? FWIW :idunno:

He was teaching me to use as little water and as little ink as possible to make the paper look good, little ink will not smear like using too much and drier ink is better.

 

[Patocazador]

Ol boss (who fired me, the last time, for not going duck hunting with him), taught me Ink is nothing but oil with color

Should have gone duck hunting. I would love to have a boss like that. :grin:

As far as Barricade (Sheath) goes, I have used it in both forms for decades and never noticed a problem.
It's great for short-term rust protection but I prefer RIG for long-term protection. RIG is almost like cosmoline that the military used.

 

[azmntman]

ff I had strep throat and STILL SHOWED UP TO WORK! He asked if I wanted to go home n catch a few hours sleep or go get breakfast and then head to the lake (was a late run for Sunday AM paper). I said I was not going and "poof" I was gone. Now in his behalf this was a planned outing for about 3 weeks but HELL! I thought he'd appreciate I showed up to work sick as a dog! He fired me for farting couple a times, going elk hunting w/o him once etc etc. Nice guy....still good buddies :haha:

and BTW he is the one got me hooked on this whole thing in the first place. I ended up buying all his BP guns years later (cept a flinter CVA that wouldn't spark even with a bic lighter helping)! He'd a fired me for that too but I already changed careers :rotf:

 

[hanshi]

I always run a dry patch down the bore out of habit; even though I use and trust Barricade. I have fired guns without patching and could tell no difference. It's very good stuff.

 

[nhmoose]

Clean grease out of the bore before shooting. It does not matter what RIG or Barricade.

None is better clean it out bare bore is best.

 

[coloradoclyde]

Thanks again Zonie:
That's the answer I was looking for. Seems to me that the Barricade would be ideal on a long duration hunt to provide rust protection and also allow for low residue once the weapon is fired.

I loaded one of my guns last October...Fired it 3 weeks ago...without a hitch or trace of rust.
Loaded using beeswax and olive oil for patch lube then cleaned the bore above the ball with the same...placed a cap on the nipple, carried it hunting for a few days and then it sat by the door for all those months....Until a raccoon came calling...My aim was true.

I tend to clean between shots...That way my gun is always ready to be fired or stored.
A clean bore is the best preventative there is...for whatever the ailment.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I didn't expect it to actually reduce the fouling just not make for difficult cleaning in the field. My favorite rust inhibitor is RIG but I suspect RIG would make a real fouling mess.

RIG is an excellent product and I use it. But, for many years, plain old Vaseline was almost the standard for long term protection. Cheap and it works. Some use for patch lube also but I never liked it for that purpose.

 

[AZbpBurner]

the oil is essentially dry.

Not an engineer but was a printer. Ol boss (who fired me, the last time, for not going duck hunting with him), taught me Ink is nothing but oil with colors. He said it NEVER dries. To prove it he grabbed an old dollar bill (not any wheres near a newer bill) and with pressure rubbed it on a roll of newsprint. By golly the green came off the old bill! So maybe he was right and oil never dries? FWIW :idunno:
He was teaching me to use as little water and as little ink as possible to make the paper look good, little ink will not smear like using too much and drier ink is better.[/quote]

As an old lithographer and engineer, I can tell you that ink DOES dry. Pigment added to oil may still rub off, but oils react with oxygen to polymerize, and set up as varnish, just as boiled linseed oil does when used on wood. If ink didn't dry, stacked pages would smear and transfer, especially under pressure in bindery equipment.

 

[coloradoclyde]

Barricade is more than 70% volatile and has a medium rate of evaporation....

It is also mineral oil based.....just like Ballistol and 3-in one oil.....

 

[azmntman]

Yer probably correct but as a sheet fed printer I recall breathing in that dang white powder all day we sprayed on the sheets as they came off the blankets so they wouldn't "smear under pressure" (course the ink was only seconds old as it got powdered)

Printing was a dirty industry, ya breathed lead then ink then white powder (legal) and whats next? Glad to have moved on :v

 

[hanshi]

It is true that Barricade dries and does not leave any oil in the bore; it protects with a dry, microscopic layer that doesn't affect fouling one way or the other.