Bent Lock Plate ?

[DuncNZ]

I have a trade gun lock which , when it is out of the stock will not stay cocked , it stays at half cock no problem but not full cock , some times it wont cock , sometimes it will , but goes off at the slightest bump . When the lock is set into the stock and the rear screw is tightened it will stay in full cock no problem , it can be pull back and released or bumped forward or backwards or pushed on and will stay in full cock . When it is all assembled there is no way it can be bumped off . The trigger is crisp and releases the sear at about 3 pounds which is fine by me . I just wonder why this can happen , it doesn't seem a real problem but I am curious as to the cause . All the inletting is fine .

 

[TDM]

I had an L&R lock that I bent trying to beat the cock off the tumbler. ( before I learned to seat the tumbler inside a socket )
I was able to flatten my lock plate by putting it in a padded vise and tapping it firmly a number of times with a nylon hammer. Lock plate steel is fairly soft. At the most you could put it in a toaster oven and heat it, would take much, maybe just 200 degrees and hammer it carefully on a flat metal surface or anvil top.

 

[Phil Coffins]

If the plate is bent you can check it with a straight edge when out of the gun. Remove as many parts that will allow a ruler to lay flat on the inside surface.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

I'd leave it in the stock.

 

[waksupi]

Are the internal screws too tight?

 

[DuncNZ]

Hi Thanks for the ideas . I just took the lock apart and tried a straight edge , there is a bend or more correctly a high spot on the lock plate internal face , The strait edge rocked back and forth about the middle of the plate , either end lifting about 0.03" when the other end is sitting flat . This is too small for me to worry about and as the lock works perfectly when screwed in place I will leave it as is .
Waksupi , I check the internal screws tension very carefully , I have custom made turn screws to fit every different screw head size in my locks.
I have taken many locks apart , this is the only one I have found which does this .
TDM I will start using a socket as a support after this , good idea .

 

[Scota@4570]

If the lock is correctly made every screw should be tight.

Sometimes the maker is lazy and cuts the threads on the sear pivot screw too far and is needs to be loose. It is still not right. As for top bridle screws, it should be tight. If it is not the bridle is not doing it's job. If the tumbler binds when that screw is tight you have a poorly made lock.

I usually make a new sear pivot screw. One that fits the sear closely and had a proper stop in the right location.

And, yes do straighten the plate. No heat is necessary. Generally, for bending steel with heat you need to get it red hot. Just a little warm is pointless.

If the lock is bending under the force of the lock bolts then fix the inletting with glass bedding compound or inletting adjustments.

 

[DuncNZ]

Scota I guess my main worry is the stock fibers will compress over time and change everything .
I snug all my lock screws tight but not silly tight .
I don't think the lock is bending under force of the lock bolts , because a snug tight rear bolt will keep everything working just fine .
, and tightening the front bolt to the same tension doesn't change anything .
I would never ever consider using glass bedding compound on a muzzle loader . Saw dust and hoof glue , yes, but not epoxy .

 

[Dale Allen Raby]

I got a T/C Seneca like that. I have to keep the lock screws tight to pull the bend out of it, or I have the same issue.