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kmolett

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I'm not sure why but your linked vidio locked up my computer. I did get to see it though.

It appears that the "hand" is worn which would explain why the cylinder does not rotate far enough to line up as it should.

I also suspect that the trigger/bolt spring is either put in backwards or it is broken.
A broken trigger/bolt spring will not push the cylinder bolt up thru the bottom of the frame to lock into the cylinder stops.

These flat springs which you will see if you remove the grips, the backstrap and the trigger guard are one of the weak points in the Colt design and, like the Colt, they often break.
Disassemble the gun to verify that the spring is at fault and while your at it you should look at the end of the "hand" that sticks out of the frame at the rear of the cylinder.
If it looks worn or the end looks to be broken off then you need to order some new parts.

Dixie gunworks lists the Spring as part number TS 0313 and the hand as part number MP 0248.
 
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The backstrap spring and the trigger spring are new and seem to be ok. This gun has me confused to say the least. I wish it were like my 51 and 60 colts
 
looks to me like someone tried to make a spring to replace the broken spring.

i have a a.sm. second dragoon and it has the flat spring like a colt.
 
Does anyone have a walker that they could take a look at and tell me what their trigger spring looks like?
 
I took that wire spring out and gave it a little bend in the end. I was careful as I could tell it has been heat treated. That did tighten things up a bit, but the cylinder rotation is still messed up. I am wondering if I have a bad hand and spring. Mercy I swear I have replaced nearly all of the internal stuff on this pistol. LOL!
 
From the video clip you posted, it looks like the hand isn't always rotating the cylinder far enough for the locking bolt to engage. It is possible that the hand is too short, or that the ratchet teeth on the rear of the cylinder are worn unevenly.

If the hand is worn too short, a new one (properly fitted) will solve the problem. If the teeth on the rear of the cylinder are worn unevenly, the only cure I am aware of is a new cylinder. :cursing:

Can you possibly post some pictures of the hand, and the rear of the cylinder?
 
-----if the notches on the cylinder are worn--couldn't they be touched up with a file and put a longer hand in-----
 
rubincam said:
-----if the notches on the cylinder are worn--couldn't they be touched up with a file and put a longer hand in-----

That would depend upon the type and amount of wear on the parts. Hopefully a new hand is all that is needed. I sure don't like to see folks spend money they don't have to.
 
-----YES--the hand is probably worn or broken--never saw any wear on my cylinder notches-----replaced a couple hands though-----
 
I have tried 2 different hands. For some reason they just don't seem to be long enough to get the cylinder around to the firing position. I think I have another hand and spring around somewhere's. I have a bunch of other cap and ball revolvers and I might be able to make something work. I am glad they improved on the walker and made the dragoons and other model's. The walker is giving me a headache. :wink:
 
I'm just guessing but the hand for the Walker is Dixie part number MP 0248 and the hand for the 1851, 1860 and 1861 Colt and the 2nd and 3rd model Dragoon is Dixie part number MP 1813.

It is possible that the same someone who replaced the flat leaf trigger/bolt spring with the round wire type also replaced the hand with one of the hands that are made for those other guns.

The 1851, 1860 and 1861, being smaller guns would probably use a shorter hand than the Walker uses.
No, I don't know why Dixie says the 2nd and 3rd Model Dragoon uses the same hand that the smaller Colts use.

Anyway, if the cylinder stop bolt is not popping up thru the hole in the bottom of the frame to stop the cylinder from turning I would consider replacing it with the right spring.
 
I found a longer hand and spring for my revolver. Put it in the gun and it seemed to work great. However when I pulled the trigger all the way back it made the cylinder jump 1/8 of an inch. When I slowly pull the trigger back to full cock and don't bring it back hard it lines up and 80% of the time comes down on the cap in the center. Looks like I am going to have to resign this pistol to a wall hanger. It looks like it has seen a lot of use and it will now do its part as a great conversation piece. I don't feel that the pistol at this point can be made safe to fire.
 
Finally figured it out. My friend Gregg Hardy took at the pistol and after a bit figured out that the trigger wasn't square. When it came down it was pushing on the cylinder. A little slimming of the trigger and the pistol is working great!
 
After a new battery and alternator i replaced the fuse and it started right up~ :cursing: :haha:
 
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