Anyone have photos of finished Colonials with barrel and lock left in the white?

[Robert Losekamp]

Howdy,

I'm eagerly awaiting my Colonial kit to arrive and am still undecided on how I want to finish the barrel/lock. I can find plenty of blued/browned examples, but not much with them left in the white. I've tried searching but Im either not using the correct terminology or there is too much noise with my word combinations.

I'm planning to use Jim's tannic acid and iron nitrate, maybe some dye to bring out warmer tonrs if needed on the wood topped with permalyn (undecided about using the permalyn as well).

Does anyone have examples of what the finished product would look like for reference? Thanks.

 

[Art Caputo]

When I built my Colonial I heavily contemplated leaving it in the white but came to the realization that would take far too long for a natural patina to develop give the frequency of use, and my rifle would appear stark and unfinished(IMO). I ended up using a product recommended by Jim Kibler(photo below and also used to age the brass parts) that was neither blue or brown, but imparted an “aged”, light grey idk look to an “in the white” rifle toned up nicely with handling and wear. After three years if use, and aging of the finish I’m quite pleased with the result.
Also, I finished the gold/brown grade 2 Maple stock with a treatment of tannic acid then aquafortis to bring out the figure. I then applied several coats of TOTW Original Oil Finish with a final coat of Permalyn Sealer. To both the exterior and inletting. The sealer did not interfere with the quality of the oil finish, but did add durability against water stains and handling wear.

 

[Robert Losekamp]

When I built my Colonial I heavily contemplated leaving it in the white but came to the realization that would take far too long for a natural patina to develop give the frequency of use, and my rifle would appear stark and unfinished(IMO). I ended up using a product recommended by Jim Kibler(photo below and also used to age the brass parts) that was neither blue or brown, but imparted an “aged”, light grey idk look to an “in the white” rifle toned up nicely with handling and wear. After three years if use, and aging of the finish I’m quite pleased with the result.
Also, I finished the gold/brown grade 2 Maple stock with a treatment of tannic acid then aquafortis to bring out the figure. I then applied several coats of TOTW Original Oil Finish with a final coat of Permalyn Sealer. To both the exterior and inletting. The sealer did not interfere with the quality of the oil finish, but did add durability against water stains and handling wear.
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That turned out great, I like the look. I assume you I have to take some scotch or wool to work it back some? Or

 

[Art Caputo]

That turned out great, I like the look. I assume you I have to take some scotch or wool to work it back some? Or

Yes…I like both the maroon ScotchBrite and 4/0 Steel Wool for getting the desired effects. I also was able to get a worn/aged case color look to the lock panel by applying some heat to the greyed metal, then toning it with the steel wool.

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

The current product they are selling called JAX Black. Easy to use and if the finish is too dark just take 0000 steel wool and rub it back to the desired coloration preferred. It doesn't take too long to wear on it's own from use either. And if you decide you like the darker look it's super easy to just do touch up with and even out spots. Videos on his YouTube channel using the stuff.
JAX Black Darkener - Recommended for Iron/Steel Parts

 

[Phil Coffins]

Colonial with bone color case hardening then rubbed to white with gray scotch brite. Color left on the inside.
IMG_0541 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Robert Losekamp]

Yes…I like both the maroon ScotchBrite and 4/0 Steel Wool for getting the desired effects. I also was able to get a worn/aged case color look to the lock panel by applying some heat to the greyed metal, then toning it with the steel wool.
View attachment 278363

I've been reading up on heat blueing, is it safe to do that on the frizzen? I'm not sure what temperature the metal would lose hardness, doesn't seem like it would get hot enough but better to ask I think.

 

[Robert Losekamp]

The current product they are selling called JAX Black. Easy to use and if the finish is too dark just take 0000 steel wool and rub it back to the desired coloration preferred. It doesn't take too long to wear on it's own from use either. And if you decide you like the darker look it's super easy to just do touch up with and even out spots. Videos on his YouTube channel using the stuff.
JAX Black Darkener - Recommended for Iron/Steel Parts

Thanks. I think what I'll want is a dull grey at the most, so this might be what I go for. There are so many options out there and everyone has an opinion on them. Praise or condemnation all over the place but if Jim is selling it I'm sure it's something he approves of.

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

Thanks. I think what I'll want is a dull grey at the most, so this might be what I go for. There are so many options out there and everyone has an opinion on them. Praise or condemnation all over the place but if Jim is selling it I'm sure it's something he approves of.

When you get time check out Kiblers video on using it. He applied it, didn't like the first go so gave it a quick wash and second application and done. It really is that easy. I've tried a great many of the cold products out there and none of them are as user friendly when doing a large piece.

 

[Robert Losekamp]

When you get time check out Kiblers video on using it. He applied it, didn't like the first go so gave it a quick wash and second application and done. It really is that easy. I've tried a great many of the cold products out there and none of them are as user friendly when doing a large piece.

I'll do that this evening. Probably the only video of his I haven't watched all of the way through. I can't get over the stock finishing videos it's like the first time every time when he puts oil on.

 

[Art Caputo]

I've been reading up on heat blueing, is it safe to do that on the frizzen? I'm not sure what temperature the metal would lose hardness, doesn't seem like it would get hot enough but better to ask I think.

I didn’t hear/blur the frozen…just greyed it.

 

[JohnBHM]

Sorry not a colonial. I used Jax black also from Kibler on my Woods runner lock.

 

[MountainSmoke]

 

[MountainSmoke]

Here are a few pics of one I did a while back.

 

[Robert Losekamp]

Here are a few pics of one I did a while back.

Looks great! I suppose I could always complete it with the steel in the white, see how I like it then change it later if I desire to. There are so many options it's a little overwhelming for a first timer.

 

[Mike in FL]

Looks like no one has a Kibler with the barrel left bright. That's what I'm gonna do with my next one.

 

[simonbeans]

I assembled my colonial and my buddy carved and finished it. The barrel was “aged” in the white as well as the lock. I am not sure how he does it, I think he lightly browns and then rubs it back to white. My rifle is 3 years old and is shot, cleaned and handled frequently.

 

[Daveboone]

Looks like no one has a Kibler with the barrel left bright. That's what I'm gonna do with my next one.

Patience, grasshopper. It has only been a day….check my posts from about two years ago. I left my Colonial .58 with maple stock in the white. It is frequently done. And worse case, you can always refinish later….bur I won’t.

 

[simonbeans]

Same process as my colonial above. My Woodsrunner, 2 months since completion. Left in the white with a bit of “aging”. Again, shot, cleaned, handled.

 

[Rodd Boyer]