1863 springfield converted to 20 ga

[kennedy759]

thanks for the add, my first muzzle loader, found this springfield dated 1864, bore is .625, converted to #11 caps, barrel is 32 inch, everything works, getting ready to shoot it for the first time, a little confused on wads, I will be loading pyrodex, then over powder wad, then a lubed fiber wad, then shot and an over shot wad, is this the best place to load the lubed fiber wad?

 

[Sam squanch]

Look up the skychief shotgun loading method on this forum.

 

[Notchy Bob]

Those cut-down Springfields are nice guns, in my estimation. Sturdy, easy to maintain, and the drop and LOP is perfect for me.

One theory is that a heavy wad under the shot column will blow a hole in your pattern, but I don’t think you’ll hurt anything by trying that load. I suggest looking up the Skychief load, as suggested by @Sam squanch , but also check out @Eterry ’s “You might be a redneck…” thread. I believe Mr. Terry used napkins from the local Sonic Burger for wads, and got good results. I haven't done any shotgunning recently, but generally used greasy leather wads, cut out of scrap veg-tan with a 5/8” arch punch, which is perfect for a 20 gauge. I was never very scientific about it, but just used two leather wads over the powder and one over the shot.

I would also recommend real black powder, if you can get it, or magnum caps if you want to shoot Pyrodex. Some of the cut-down Springfields, like yours and one I have, had the cone turned down for sporting caps, but yours likely still has musket-sized threads. You might try replacing that nipple with a musket nipple, provided you can get real musket caps and not just the “Reenactor” version.

Have fun with it! Those are nice guns.

Notchy Bob

 

[Old Hawkeye]

Put the musket cap nipple back on it. They work better & are much easier to use in the field(no capper needed). I got 1000 Schutzen musket caps a few months back from Grafs & converted both of my ML rifles. Best thing I've done in a while. Dump the fiber wads altogether. Powder & shot the same by volume. Powder, overpowder cards (I use 2), shot, then overshot card. You can throw a lubed 1/8" thick felt wad under the shot with the overpowder card & see how that goes, but KISS. The Skychief load works & is good for Turkey or at the range, but it is a PIA loading in the field, but that's just my opinion. Size your cards to your bore. My 20 takes 19 gauge cards. It's an experiment & every gun is different. Good luck! BTW, cool Springfield!

 

[kennedy759]

only problem so far is the nipple is frozen in, been using liquid wrench for a couple of weeks and no luck, so going to try what I got and see what happens

 

[Jappo]

I have one like that. The nipple has been turned down to accept #11 caps. I load 50/50 powder and shot. I use a 1/4" over powder wad and a over shot card. Just for fun I never used more than 60gr ffg. And I just push the wad over the powder. I don't tamp it down tight. I shoot mistletoe off my mesquite trees. And it works great. Wasp nest works good.
Ever load one of those small cannons? Thunder mug, signal cannon. You can pack almost anything in it. Some use newspaper, bread and whatever you can pack tight. I did find out the more you pack in it and pack it down tight. The louder the boom.
I believe the more resistance the powder has the louder the boom. So using thicker or more wads and packing them down is going to make a difference.

 

[Old Hawkeye]

only problem so far is the nipple is frozen in, been using liquid wrench for a couple of weeks and no luck, so going to try what I got and see what happens

Your gonna have to get that nipple out of there eventually. Take the barrel out of the stock & heat the nipple area with one of those small propane bottle torches. Keep the temp under 500 degrees. about same as if you were doing a pipe joint solder & you won't hurt the steel. Heat it and let it cool several times, then heat it while turning on the wrench. If your threads are ruined you will have to tap for an oversized nipple. BTW, make sure it's not loaded!!

 

[Notchy Bob]

@Old Hawkeye gives good advice.

I have a cut-down Springfield that stood in the corner of a barn for 50+ years with no attention. The nipple was “froze.” I stood the barrel breech down in a can of kerosene for about five days, then pulled it out and heated the breech with a propane torch, not enough to change color but too hot to touch. No go. I let it cool, then repeated the process and the nipple eased right out. I think the repeated, sequential heating and cooling is better than heat alone, and pre-treatment with kerosene (or some kind of penetrating oil) sure doesn’t hurt.

Kerosene has always been my “go-to” for this kind of thing. Cheaper than penetrating oil in the amount needed for soaking, and you can burn it in your lamp.

Notchy Bob

 

[Old Hawkeye]

I let it cool, then repeated the process and the nipple eased right out. I think the repeated, sequential heating and cooling is better than heat alone,

Notchy Bob

You are correct, sir!

 

[oldwood]

I've unbreached a few CW era European muskets with good success using the soak for a day or two , apply mild plumbing torch heat method. Never had a failure to unbreach , or remove old nipple..

 

[kennedy759]

Your gonna have to get that nipple out of there eventually. Take the barrel out of the stock & heat the nipple area with one of those small propane bottle torches. Keep the temp under 500 degrees. about same as if you were doing a pipe joint solder & you won't hurt the steel. Heat it and let it cool several times, then heat it while turning on the wrench. If your threads are ruined you will have to tap for an oversized nipple. BTW, make sure it's not loaded!!

it worked, thanks