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1763 Lock Completed

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Lock Built from castings.

Only thing left to do is harden the plate, which i will do after the gun is bolted to the stock.

Going to send out to an engraver to freshen up the markings.

1717 Charleville Lock is on Deck.

Special appreciation to the forum members who support us with their tutorials, Especially Dave_Person.
 

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Only thing left to do is harden the plate, which i will do after the gun is bolted to the stock.

Looking GOOD.

Got a question, though. Do you mean you are going to inlet the lock plate before you harden it? If so, I'm wondering how some distortion in the lock plate during hardening and annealing might affect the inlet? Seems to me one should harden/anneal the lock plate and then inlet it? Or do I misunderstand something?

Gus
 
Looking GOOD.

Got a question, though. Do you mean you are going to inlet the lock plate before you harden it? If so, I'm wondering how some distortion in the lock plate during hardening and annealing might affect the inlet? Seems to me one should harden/anneal the lock plate and then inlet it? Or do I misunderstand something?

Gus

i harden the plate after i Drill the lock bolts.

its in workable state now, the 4140 work hardens too so i dont want it too hard

i harder the plate at around 1300 so it doesnt warp on me.

not worried about the inletting.
 
A lot kit builders dont harden these casted plates because theyre kinda thin, and will warp out. Then you have to start over again, i try keep the heat lower for the plate, i have not discovered a way to harden the plate at case hardening temps (1500) without it warping on me.

oil hardening the plate is kinda useless and shot peening is more of a kinda polish because theres too many moving parts, it will wear down the plate just as fast.

i do 1300 a draw back at 475 so it maintains a good tough hardness.

the lock inlet i keep ‘tight’ until the finished procedure and then the sanding and oiling tightens things up again.
 
A lot kit builders dont harden these casted plates because theyre kinda thin, and will warp out. Then you have to start over again, i try keep the heat lower for the plate, i have not discovered a way to harden the plate at case hardening temps (1500) without it warping on me.

Dave Person screws them onto steel plates when he case hardens them, so they don't warp. You may wish to ask him about it.

Gus
 
Dave Person screws them onto steel plates when he case hardens them, so they don't warp. You may wish to ask him about it.

Gus

I’ve had a few tell me to do that Gus, or use a machinists block. I’m going to get around to trying that.

Lately I’ve been heating the plates to around 1300 then water quenching in hot water, it produces a thin hardness but good enough for a plate. Drawing back to around 400 after quenching.
 
I’ve had a few tell me to do that Gus, or use a machinists block. I’m going to get around to trying that.

Lately I’ve been heating the plates to around 1300 then water quenching in hot water, it produces a thin hardness but good enough for a plate. Drawing back to around 400 after quenching.

One of the problems I’ve been having case hardening the plates is finding a crucible large enough, so I’ve been using folding sheet metal, like a foil to case harden, its not cheap stuff but it does work wel.
 
Looking GOOD.

Got a question, though. Do you mean you are going to inlet the lock plate before you harden it? If so, I'm wondering how some distortion in the lock plate during hardening and annealing might affect the inlet? Seems to me one should harden/anneal the lock plate and then inlet it? Or do I misunderstand something?

Gus

Hi Gus

I cook the plates in an iron pipe closed at both ends filled with charcoal from fruit pits and some bone charcoal, treat it for 1 hour at 1600, then lower the temp to 1375 before quenching for another half hour.

Lately For lockplates i harden them after they’re put in the gun, to keep the plate for distorting, i lower the heat down to around 1375 before quenching. I quench it with a set of bolts on it too, this keeps it from warping.

Then temper back at around 400 for 1 hour until it’s the color of straw with some slight violet, the pan arm and lock bolt holes i temper twice just to make sure all stress is out of those areas.

I’ve had great results this way.
 

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