Casting Lead balls for the first time _ advice Needed...

All- I am getting ready to attempt to cast some .495 round ball using a campfire. I have the lead (99.998 pure)..I was able to source a 5lb ingot from local plumbing wholesaler. I have a cast iron pot and ladle along with the bullet mold...I am looking for any tips or trips for casting balls. I have watched many You tube videos and seen ..They all make sense and seem straight forward...But I would love to hear from the group on tips, tricks... experiences...what to expect...and accuracy results from casting using an open fire.... trying to keep it in the traditional style........

I would recommend learning over a gas or electric burner, and work your way up to the camp fire. Maintaining proper temperatures on a campfire is not all that easy. Walk before you run.

waksupi said:

I would recommend learning over a gas or electric burner, and work your way up to the camp fire. Maintaining proper temperatures on a campfire is not all that easy. Walk before you run

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Trying to keep it traditional....I think that the Long hunter of the time did not have that luxury of even heating with a stove......

Fire is that way!

Keep your bullet mold good and hot. Plan on dumping your first 2 to 6 balls back in the pot. Wear gloves.

I would certainly break with tradition when it comes to safety gear. Eye, hand and arm protection!!

but then, I would probably add 1% tin to get an easier to cast alloy as well

You want to get your mold up to temp. I generally put it in with the melting lead for a while. And keep hose gloves on!

Use dry wood. Preferably oak, it burns hot , and gives a good bed of coals. Don't use pine, it will pop. Good luck, and wear your PPE. Most of the long hunters cast a few at a time, the pot and ladle will require a good rhythm be established.

Lead's casting temp vs vaporization temp is a narrow range & hard to keep steady over a campfire. You're outside -- that's good. But it's still not something I'd want to do often. Plenty of things were done "traditionally" for years before we learned better. Make sure the wind is at your back.

all good advice already
The key is to approach the task with resolve and not be fearful or timid, just go at it trust yourself but follow safety measures.

Wear eye protection and no polyester clothes! I use a face shield when casting. You want to wear natural fiber clothing, preferably a couple of layers. Gloves should be good work gloves, but not bulky so that they make you clumsy.

Molten metal is not forgiving. It will hurt you bad if you disrespect the process.

Do it in a well ventilated area. Preferably outside but be mindful not to cast if it might rain. I cast in my work shed as it is very well ventilated and covered so I have no rain worries.

Maybe this is a wives tale, but I soot up the mould with a candle. Learned this trick from my father who used to cast fishing sinkers. IMO, it does help with allowing the balls to exit the mould easier.

Sidney Smith said:

Maybe this is a wives tale, but I soot up the mould with a candle. Learned this trick from my father who used to cast fishing sinkers. IMO, it does help with allowing the balls to exit the mould easier.

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If you have a mold where bullets stick, take 0000 steel wool and gently polish the edges of the cavities. Some use an Exacto knife to gently scrap the edges, but that scares me.

find some way to ensure that the pot is stable. find some way to stabilize the pot. make sure the pot..................
spilling a pot of lead can in the least be a mess to reclaim. worst case scenario are scars that never go away. don't ask. though i have always been good looking I haven't always been smart!!

AwwNaww said:

I would certainly break with tradition when it comes to safety gear. Eye, hand and arm protection!!

but then, I would probably add 1% tin to get an easier to cast alloy as well

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what about pewter?

Be real careful to keep water away from your pot of molten lead and your mold. A drop of water -- or even a damp piece of lead --dropped into a hot lead pot will flash instantly into steam, spraying anything within several feet with molten lead. Bad things also happen if your mold is damp when you pour the lead. That's one reason everyone says to make sure your mold is good and hot before you pour.

James Kopp said:

what about pewter?

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I've wondered about that as it makes sense that "running ball" back then didn't involve "galena" that was three nine pure. If I broke the last tine from a pewter fork, it would have ended up in the pot. But then what was "pewter" back then? You sure don't want zinc in your pot! Tin good, zinc not so....

Sidney Smith said:

Maybe this is a wives tale, but I soot up the mould with a candle. Learned this trick from my father who used to cast fishing sinkers. IMO, it does help with allowing the balls to exit the mould easier.

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Not a wive's tale.

I have always poured round balls using an open fire. Here’s some things I’ve learned.

Hardwoods like oak, walnut and hickory work best. I like to let the fire get a good bed of hot coals before starting. Takes about thirty minutes to get hot enough usually. It’s best to not be in a hurry.

I keep the mold next to the fire to heat up.

I always wear eye protection and leather work gloves.

Wooden handles like the ones in the picture don’t get as hot as metal handles of bag molds. They’re also a little easier to hold onto.

I like to drop the balls onto a towel but have also used a pan of play sand.

Pouring round balls is relaxing, almost as good as shooting.

James Kopp said:

what about pewter?

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As long as it's real tin and lead pewter and not modern repo stuff. Plain old lead/tin solder is also great way to add a bit of tin to your lead.

Just remember if your balls are wrinkled it is too cold. Turn up the temp.

I used a Bic lighter to soot up the mold. Hold it into to the flame. Can also use a candle if not windy. I dropped mine into a half filled 5 gal bucket of water. Check all your castings before shutting down so you can recast any rejects.