New rifle

I found this for 75 bucks anyone know how to fix the trigger it is very sloppy. Also anyone know what the caliber is?

The caliber should be stamped on top of the barrel.

The sloppy trigger is just the nature of these Jukar, CVA and Traditions guns. I have several and just use them as is. Some folks have done things to “fix” the trigger but I never saw the use.

I have a Jukar in .45 caliber that is rough as a cob on the outside but shoots outstanding.

terrorkiller said:

View attachment 286291View attachment 286292
I found this for 75 bucks anyone know how to fix the trigger it is very sloppy. Also anyone know what the caliber is?

Click to expand...

Most likely its .45 caliber with a round ball twist

If the caliber isn't marked on the barrel you should get a pair of calipers and measure it. If you have balls of known size you can drop them in the bore to get a size also.

How to fix the trigger pull depends o what you mean? Is it a hard trigger pull or excess travel before it contacts the sear?

"I found this for 75 bucks anyone know how to fix the trigger it is very sloppy.


If you want help with the trigger please reply with more information with respect to the whole issue. Sloppy means a lot with a trigger. Front to back slop? Side to side slop? Both side to side and front to back slop?
Larry

Sloppy can mean a lot of things most not worth fixing . They don’t make a Timney trigger for muzzleloaders that i have seen.

Those all have front to back slop. It's what they are. If the barrel condition is good, expect to be surprised at how well it can shoot. There is usually an adjustment screw inside the lock to adjust trigger pull if it's not satisfactory.

Looks like $75 well spent

I believe 45 caliber is the norm for the earlier Juker guns but Traditions imports (and still does import) the same gun but in 50 caliber so check the bore diameter as others have suggested. The trigger slop is just inherent to the design of those simple triggers. You can shim for side to side wobble. You can deepen the inlet to reduce front to back but don't take it too deep. I have even seen a spring hack used to keep the trigger from rattling. It is a simple design but works, most folks just live with the rattle.

that is a very good price for that rifle

Article on tightening up Traditions KY trigger: link

It's the same trigger as yours.

ronaldrothb49 said:

How to fix the trigger pull depends o what you mean? Is it a hard trigger pull or excess travel before it contacts the sear?

Click to expand...

Front to back slop like 1/3 inch of jiggle

I understand your concern (I've spent $$$ to get Geissele 2-stages, etc, for unmentionables). But, what you have is normal for for these simple triggers. Here are the measurements taken from my KY:

uncocked:


cocked:



I don't even notice it any more on these guns. I just look at it as being a sort of "2-stage" take up. My pull is right at 3 lbs and crisply breaks, so I'm good like I am.

You could go in and braze a shim on top of the trigger to remove some of that [eta: or sink her in deeper like davidmc62 said], so that you have minimal play cocked. I wouldn't; lots of people do. Your call.

yellowhammer said:

I understand your concern (I've spent $$$ to get Geissele 2-stages, etc, for unmentionables). But, what you have is normal for for these simple triggers. Here are the measurements taken from my KY:

uncocked:
View attachment 286812

cocked:
View attachment 286813


I don't even notice it any more on these guns. I just look at it as being a sort of "2-stage" take up. My pull is right at 3 lbs and crisply breaks, so I'm good like I am.

You could go in and braze a shim on top of the trigger to remove some of that [eta: or sink her in deeper like davidmc62 said], so that you have minimal play cocked. I wouldn't; lots of people do. Your call.

Click to expand...

Mine is like the unlocked all the time rattling as it does so then is like 15 pounds pull

I did inlet my trigger deeper into the stock and went "too far" initially and had to add some shim wood to back out the trigger unit as it was now in constant contact with the sear bar. I am no gunsmith, but I don't think your trigger blade should be in constant contact with the sear bar as that may cause problems with lock function and safety. After I added shim wood and brought the trigger back out a little, I was able to reduce some of that front to back wobble you speak of. Was it worth the effort. It was for me, but you can take it too far( as I did initially), and maybe make the rifle dangerous to fire. So if you choose to go that way, take it a little at a time and reinstall the trigger and test function until you are good with the fit. Those simple triggers are designed to have a minimal amount of play to them that must be taken up before making sear contact. Because the tumbler rotates and has a half and full cock notch that the sear bar moves in and out of, you don't want your trigger blade to interfere with the sear bar movement till its set.

I went looking for the spring trick I had seen years ago, it was on another muzzle loading builders site and the spring "DID" actually allow the simple trigger blade to stay in constant contact with the sear bar at un-cocked, half cock and full cock which stopped all the rattling around. So I was a little off when I said it probably should not be in contact until at full cock. The builders spring did allow for movement of the sear without fear of lock function interference from a simple trigger blade.

Sloppy trigger is normal on that gun.

terrorkiller said:

Front to back slop like 1/3 inch of jiggle

Click to expand...

Without seeing the trigger and sear relationship I can only guess what the problem it. Most likely the trigger bar is too low (short). The trigger bar needs to be right at the sear without putting any presure on it. You can add material to trigger bar to correct slop. Remove the trigger plate and measure the distance from face of the trigger plate to the top of the trigger bar (in the relaxed position)and compare that dimension with the measurement from the stock inlet to the sear. This comparison will only work if when the trigger is installed it is flush with the stock OR you compensate for any difference between the trigger plate with respect to it being inlet flush, deeper, or proud of the stock.
Larry

terrorkiller said:

Mine is like the unlocked all the time rattling as it does so then is like 15 pounds pull

Click to expand...

Fifteen pounds! That's a lot. Maybe a light oiling of the lock internals would help.

Also, the locks on these guns that I've been familiar with have a sear adjustment screw that you can see in the pictures below. If the lock has a bridle the screw is hidden behind it. If no screw but a place to screw one in then you need a replacement.

In the picture the screw is backed all the way out. In this position trigger pull is max. If you feel like you are done with this gun pm me to discuss it's disposal.

Agree. I've never even seen one with a pull that bad. Got to be lock related. You normally can run that screw down to hair trigger levels.