Shiloh sharps 54 cal

Robertakamagoo said:

Hi aare they hard to clean. I’m been watching video on making paper loads

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Actually not hard using a soaking wet bore snake followed by a couple of wet (moose milk) patches a nd done. The breech block soaks overnight in a jar of moose milk and cleaned in the morning.'The rifle is a bit harder than the carbine mostly because of the 32"or so inch barrel is a bit ungainly to handle.
The secret is to put in the space in the cartridge between the powder and bullet a small amount of bullet lube.
In the1.5" Hahn tubes my guns use the space between the powder charge which covered with a wad I put a pea size piece of lube.
Or in cool weather just use straight lard and the fouling stays soft and easy to remove.
In warm weather my preference is a mix of one ounce of lard or tallow with one bar (4 oz,) of Gulf Wax or beeswax and thank you Mark Hubbs for that. This makes a good non bleeding bullet lube. Just drop a pea size slice in the space, glue on the ring tail and Bob's your uncle you are done!
I gave up on paper tubes as too time consuming and because my guns use a flat base cartridge which, by the way, is period correct.
Measure your chamber depth (see the Beliveau or Musket Matters video) and use the proper length Hahn tube.
But this is just MY way not particularly the only or best way.
Respectfully submitted
Bunk

Thanks to you all I have a lot to learn. I will let you know when I get it . You never seen one around my area. I’m thinking I could sell it if I don’t like it.

Phil Coffins said:

Mine is a 54 and without any modifications. I make the flat base cartridge and have done the tailed type. The late war flat base type is what I prefer.
0F683344-4022-4C8B-B9CE-8F24DE0E9D6B by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

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What molds are you using.

Moose ring tail.

Phil Coffins said:

Mine is a 54 and without any modifications. I make the flat base cartridge and have done the tailed type. The late war flat base type is what I prefer.
0F683344-4022-4C8B-B9CE-8F24DE0E9D6B by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

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Those look factory made! Awesome! No powder leakage? Is it a technique you developed or did you follow a you tube video?

Robertakamagoo said:

I should try to get it they said they will take $1700. Or buy this

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There is absolutely zero comparison between a Chiappa and a made-in-America Sharps rifle. The first is a Kia and the second is a Bentley. Both work, but..............................

Boston Bill said:

Those look factory made! Awesome! No powder leakage? Is it a technique you developed or did you follow a you tube video?

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Those are very well made hand rolled cartridges.
I am a bit lazy and use factory made Charlie's Tubes.
Same flat base style and quick and easy to load and very durable.
Good going Bill
Bunk

I have a Wolfgang made rifle, that I traded a Pedersoli for. No comparison, the Ped was a real pain to use and the Shiloh is wonderful, it works like they are supposed to. I also make the flat base cartridges with Moose Guy France bullets. But recently Brett at Papercartridges has been showing pictures of linen cartridges and says they work better, absolutely nothing left after firing. I'm going to try to find some appropriate linen cloth and try that myself. The only issue I had with my rifle was the gas plate was too tight in the breechblock when I got it. There was a little erosion there, probably because it couldn't move properly. I lapped it in and now it's slick and no leakage at all that I can tell. If you can get one of these rifles, do it!

Boston Bill said:

Those look factory made! Awesome! No powder leakage? Is it a technique you developed or did you follow a you tube video?

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Thanks I just figured it out. Here’s most of my loading kit, a wood block with a hole to hold the paper cartridge with powder and the heavy string to draw the paper into the bullet’s groove. The metal rod to roll the paper around and to push the cigarette paper in to from the bottom. All held with glue stick. I left the other end bigger to open the tube up and to round it out when needed. (It could be made of wood) . The sewing thread to tie the bullet into the paper and the funnel to help get powder into rather than around the tube. I cast the bullets and don’t lube them till it’s time to shoot. If I do a decent job the hold up well enough and don’t leak powder.
2DC71291-E2F4-49A9-A07F-8D5DB3E643B0 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

Robertakamagoo said:

I do have a lot of #2 for casting. And I work in machine shop I can make the stuff to make paper rounds.

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can you really cast bullets from #2 ?? guess it would be easy too clean. water and t.p. sorry guys .. just had to.

2 shots said:

can you really cast bullets from #2 ?? guess it would be easy too clean. water and t.p. sorry guys .. just had to.

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Nice good one

I looked at the pictures. Beautiful gun and beautiful countryside!

2 shots said:

can you really cast bullets from #2 ?? guess it would be easy too clean. water and t.p. sorry guys .. just had to.

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not exactly sure what kind of #2 is used for castling bullets.
I know a lot of #2 is shot by guys sitting round usually in places the serve adult beverages

2 shots said:

can you really cast bullets from #2 ?? guess it would be easy too clean. water and t.p. sorry guys .. just had to.

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Of course, you've heard of shooting the #2 haven't you?

Bunk said:

Have Hahn Machine Works or Larry Flees do their chamber and breech block modification. Then with "Charlie's Tubes" and a ring tail bullet start shooting. With this modification you will be good for 30+ rounds with no breech block stickiness and well worth the cost. The only difference is the Flees modification will only work with flat tail cartridges. It will not work with the cut tail paper cartridge
There is mo change in appearance because the modifications on both are internal.
I have one of each kind of modification on two Pedersoli's one carbine and one sporting rifle and am satisfied with both types of conversion.
I have shot them a lot and both work perfectly. I cannot say one is better than the other.
Have fun
Bunk

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While I'd do a Flees or Hahn mod on most repops, I would seriously hesitate on a Shiloh. I've seen them run just fine in stock form.

Nobade said:

I have a Wolfgang made rifle, that I traded a Pedersoli for. No comparison, the Ped was a real pain to use and the Shiloh is wonderful, it works like they are supposed to. I also make the flat base cartridges with Moose Guy France bullets. But recently Brett at Papercartridges has been showing pictures of linen cartridges and says they work better, absolutely nothing left after firing. I'm going to try to find some appropriate linen cloth and try that myself. The only issue I had with my rifle was the gas plate was too tight in the breechblock when I got it. There was a little erosion there, probably because it couldn't move properly. I lapped it in and now it's slick and no leakage at all that I can tell. If you can get one of these rifles, do it!

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I've been rolling mine from copier paper with no modifications. No nitrating, nothing. And in the chamber and barrel after firing, nothing.

I also found that Duco cement works best. Not all white glues are made equal and I was having odd flyers even with Hahn tubes. It wasn't until I found one of mine in the backstop with a bit of paper still glued to the bullet that I figured out that the paper tag was leading to the flyers. Duco is a cellulose based adhesive and as such, shatters on ignition and burns. Presto, no more flyers other than the ones directly from operator error.

dave951 said:

While I'd do a Flees or Hahn mod on most repops, I would seriously hesitate on a Shiloh. I've seen them run just fine in stock form.

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Me also. No blow by and with the bore butter the gas check plate always comes out with no problem!

Boston Bill said:

Me also. No blow by and with the bore butter the gas check plate always comes out with no problem!

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If it ain't broke don't fix it
Unfortunately mine was broke and I did fix it or at least got it fixed
Bunk.

I’m going to try to buy it tomorrow .