erhunter
45 Cal.
I was wondering if anyone has replaced their original Lyman Trade Rifle flint lock with an L&R RPL-03-F flint lock? Is it worth the $185 to go from the coil spring to the leaf spring for more spark?
I say it can't hurt to polish and tune your existing lock to see if you can get it to spark better. I know several folks that have Lyman GPR's that say they have never had any issues with their locks.Thanks Grimord and Eric for your responses! DO YOU GUYS SUGGEST polishing and tuning my original Lyman lock? Any tips on this?
Who did the the work on your lock? Does he tune them for anyone? If so I'd like his address. Thanks for your input!I just bought a Lyman Trade rifle coming in and the guy that got it from Lyman Co. said "Lock was about as smooth as dragging a piano across a railroad track." He fixed the tumbler and sear so it doesn't drag on the lockplate. In a couple of days I'll be stalking the mailgal soon for the package, Will post the lock to see what it looks like.
The replacement work looks great! Did you use the RPL-05 or the RPL-03? It's hard to measure my lock because of the shape, but on my 2001 Trade Rifle it looks like 5 inches. On the RPL-03 I can also use the larger flints.I say it can't hurt to polish and tune your existing lock to see if you can get it to spark better. I know several folks that have Lyman GPR's that say they have never had any issues with their locks.
Did you tap the trigger guard plate for your machine bolt or just insert a peice of metal in the stock? Thanks again!I have installed a L&R RPL flintlock on Lyman GPR, and it definitely is not a drop in. Not quite what I would call a nightmare, but well into the PIA category. View attachment 13522
The major installation challenge I found was that the RPL lockplate did not match the original GPR lock mortise. Oversized in some areas, undersized in others. No problem removing wood or metal, but difficult to add back to fill the gaps. The touchhole lined up at the correct height, but maybe back a bit in the pan. Had to remove a little more wood in the lock area than I would’ve liked to clear the springs and other ‘stuff’ on the back of the lock, so I wound up replacing the wood screw on the tang with a machine screw and a metal anchor to reinforce the stock’s wrist (never a bad idea).
Ok, that said, the RPL is a definite functional upgrade to the GPR factory lock, at least in my opinion. The way it cocks (feel of coil vs leaf spring), with a short movement from half to full cock and it sparks WAY better.View attachment 13523
The main reason I replaced the lock was that I picked up the kit as part of an estate buy, and the frizzen was missing (found it modified and installed on a TC in the group). An incomplete kit was going to be hard sell, and replacement frizzen was about $30, so I went with the RPL. Recently spotted a new frizzen for the original GPR lock at a gun show in an ‘anything for a $1’ box, so I now have an extra lock.
My biggest complaint was my L&R lock was sent with a big casting flaw in the nose of the lock plate
Inserted a piece of metal in the stick. The spring on the trigger plate doesn’t allow drilling and tapping into it.Did you tap the trigger guard plate for your machine bolt or just insert a peice of metal in the stock? Thanks again!
Eric, you definitely had more grief than I experienced installing the RPL lock on the GPR. My major disappointment was how ill fitting the lock plate was to the factory mortise. The touch hole in mine wound up a little to rear of the pan and the lock mounting screw only required a ‘minimal’ amount of persuasion to get lined up and fit. Wood removal for the lock internals was exspected.This will give you an idea of what I considered a "nightmare". Moved the barrel back to get the pan in the right place, had to redrill the lock bolt hole because the TC one didn't line up with the L&R socket on the bridal. Had to grind off the back of the hooked breech to accommodate the new lock bolt and had to grind down the side of the barrel to get the lock flush with the barrel as well as fill the gaps in the lock mortise where the lock plate was too small. Almost forgot, I had to remove a tremendous amount of wood for the lock internals.
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Inserted a piece of metal in the stick. The spring on the trigger plate doesn’t allow drilling and tapping into it.
When I get the rifle and the info I'll shoot ya a post. Might be later in the week or after weekend.Who did the the work on your lock? Does he tune them for anyone? If so I'd like his address. Thanks for your input!
I was in touch with L&R and they said I should be using the RPL-05 in my Trade Rifle instead of the RPL-03.I may be sticking my neck out here but maybe that is why you had so much trouble with your lock.Don't know if the question was directed at me but I used a RPL-3 flintlock.
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