cleaning the Lyman breech

I'm picking up my new Lyman flintlock next week, and have been reading a lot about shooting muzzle-loaders. A number of posts and websites have noted the importance of running a wet, then a dry patch down the barrel every two or three shots. The Lyman has a patent breech with a narrower chamber - a patch on the 50 cal cleaning jag won't reach in there. What do Lyman shooters do about this? Will a brush do a good enough job in the chamber?

Note that I'm not concerned about cleaning at the end of the day, just while at the range or in the field. Thanks

Jamie

You don't really need to worry about the patent breech while shooting. For wiping between shots use a damp (not wet) patch. Run the patch down then back out in a single motion. Don't scrub back & forth. For end of the day cleaning use a .22 caliber brush with a patch wrapped around it to clean the breech & flush with plenty of water then dry & oil.

When the gun starts to give me troubl with ignition, I will clean out the chamber area with a 40 cal brush, then with a patch over the brush.

Alot of people will tell you it's not a good idea to use a brush down a muzzleloader. I agree, however, it's the nature of the patent chambered beast unforntunately.

I'm almost of the impression it give you more problems than it solves.

I use a .45cal nylon brush with a patch wound around it and loose top folded over to stop metal brushend scoring breech base.
Rubbing alcohol for wetting the patch..... evaporates quickly. BUT I don't bother with the breech between shots.

Cleaning Note
Note: The powder channel inside the breech plug is smaller than the bore
diameter and does not allow the cleaning jag to enter. Lyman recommends the
use of a .35 cal. cleaning brush and/or a slotted tip cleaning rod to reach into
this area.

If you experience problems with ignition, you can run your damp patch down to the breech and fire a cap.

The cap gasses will blow a lot of the fouling in the patent breech into the damp patch and the fouling can be pulled from the barrel.

When shooting a target relay, I will do this at the end of the relay.

The biggest deal with your new rifle is to clean all the factory packing grease from the bore and flash channel.
If there's even a trace of that stuff left it will immediately become a hard tar like fouling that causes a lot of trouble.
That said, once cleaned the flash channel and breech seldom cause problems, the "patch wipe" your read about is to control the amount of fouling deposited in the bore and rifling.
Keep reading here,, you've found a treasure trove of info on this forum that could fill volumes of books.
Learn how to do the soapy water bucket/pump method of cleaning and you'll be fine,
Just use plenty of oil solvent for that first new gun cleaning and get that flash channel clear before you shoot it that first time

bpd303 said:

You don't really need to worry about the patent breech while shooting. For wiping between shots use a damp (not wet) patch. Run the patch down then back out in a single motion. Don't scrub back & forth.

Click to expand...

IBID; I wipe (swab) with a cleaning patch that's slightly dampened with 91% rubbing alcohol between every shot while at the range. Alcohol naturally attracts water so there's some in it already, plus the alcohol has a much lower boiling point than water and evaporates quickly so as not to affect the next powder charge. Cotton linen is what I buy for cleaning patches and it cheap by the yard at the local fabric store. This combination pulls out a whole lot of fouling and as long as the patch is only dampened it never has affected the next powder charge. No matter what the solvent is that you choose, if the patch is dripping with it there's a chance of leaving some behind that will nullify any fresh powder it comes in contact with. You learn some things the hard way....... :redface:

(off topic)

Great icon - Cecil rules!

Thanks to everyone for the very helpful replies. I did a fair bit of reading before ordering the rifle, saw a lot of references to the rust-generating properties of powder residue so I ordered a pile of cleaning stuff too! I think I'm ready to clean, shoot and clean again....

Jamie

Correction..... .38cal nylon brush.

:hatsoff: to Cecil the ram from Footrot Flats.

jamieorr said:

Thanks to everyone for the very helpful replies. I did a fair bit of reading before ordering the rifle, saw a lot of references to the rust-generating properties of powder residue so I ordered a pile of cleaning stuff too! I think I'm ready to clean, shoot and clean again...Jamie

Click to expand...

Learn by doing and by making your own mistakes.

Best to learn from others mistakes. You won't live long enough to make them all by yourself. :wink:

"Best to learn from others mistakes. You won't live long enough to make them all by yourself."

Where's that silly "like" button when you actually want one?

I have a Lyman GPR flintlock and I have found that about 15 conceutive shots ( damp patch wiped between shots) I start to get failure to fire, just pan flashes. I'm starting to think that crud from inside that barrel maybe getting pushed down or flaking off and failing into the small patent breech area and blocking the vent hole during wiping and loading. So after about 8 shots I use my vent pick to be sure the vent is clear after each subsequent shot. This has stopped the FTF. Next time I get a FTF I'll remove the after market RMC vent I use and check out what's blocking the flame path.
After cleaning the bore, I clean the patent breech with a 36 cal. bronze brush twisted in the patent breach chanel with the vent plug out. With water from the laundry tub hose going down the bore quit a lot of fouling comes out very quickly.

I have a LH gpr and found a .410 shotgun mop and a little alcohol works well to clean the chamber in the breach. And when it gets really dirty just wash out with soap and water, let dry, fluff with your fingers and it's good as new. :grin: