butt plate in letting

[frankie]

This is how I inlet a Butt plate. I concentrate on in letting the upper part first to get it level and centered following the line of the barrel line. Then to inlet the crescent part I grind off the sides of the head leaving the slot of the screw intact and screw it into the stock where the final screw is going to go. Then use in-letting black on the inside of the crescent shape (sparingly) applied with a toothbrush. Slide the butt plate forward until it engages the ground screw in the screw hole and until it leaves marks on the wood of the crescent area. If you tap the plate with a rubber mallet, do it softly. Remove that wood. Keep repeating this until the plate fits perfect. The ground off screw is there to guide it the same every time. I hope this helps

 

[deerstalkert]

i like the screw idea! am right in the middle(i hope) of installing one.

 

[deerstalkert]

what the heck is all over that stock? looks like bees wax from a Pharoh's tomb!

 

[frankie]

what the heck is all over that stock? looks like bees wax from a Pharoh's tomb!

I just turned the stock on my duplicator machine. I havent sanded it down yet. Its just bare wood. The lighting makes it look like beeswax. lol But good question.

 

[frankie]

i like the screw idea! am right in the middle(i hope) of installing one.

I am going to post pictures of the stock as I go. The wood is a very nice piece of American Black Walnut.

 

[Ames]

I like what I see. Dumb question. To do this you have to drill the hole for the screw parallel to the barrel? I ask because a lot of Butt plate screws take an uphill path so the head is square to the plate. Inleting while on an upwards trending screw would move the plate upwards as it moves forwards?

 

[frankie]

I like what I see. Dumb question. To do this you have to drill the hole for the screw parallel to the barrel? I ask because a lot of Butt plate screws take an uphill path so the head is square to the plate. Inleting while on an upwards trending screw would move the plate upwards as it moves forwards?

When I get the upper part done, I put it in place and position then push the top part forward to meet the stock. I then mark the lower hole and angle for the screw to see where the guide screw goes. If one messes up in aligning that hole they can just glue a dowel in the hole and when it dries drill it again. I hope that makes sense. If not I will try and explain better. As fat as the dowel I use, it is made of walnut I get at a hardware store.

 

[The Appalachian]

I like what I see. Dumb question. To do this you have to drill the hole for the screw parallel to the barrel? I ask because a lot of Butt plate screws take an uphill path so the head is square to the plate. Inleting while on an upwards trending screw would move the plate upwards as it moves forwards?

The guide screw hole doesn't get used for final assembly. Pull the guide screw, glue in a dowel to fill it solid. Then re drill the proper angle hole for the butt plate screw. The guide screw needs to guide the butt plate straight forward each time it's test fitted and inletting black transfered.

 

[frankie]

I like what I see. Dumb question. To do this you have to drill the hole for the screw parallel to the barrel? I ask because a lot of Butt plate screws take an uphill path so the head is square to the plate. Inleting while on an upwards trending screw would move the plate upwards as it moves forwards?

One might have to move the screw at a different angle in the process. If I do I use a oak or walnut dowel (not pine its too soft) Just take the screw out and fill the hole with glue and new dowel let dry and redrill it. At the most I have only had to do it once per buttplate if even then. Good question Ames

 

[Ames]

Ahhh. Got it. Thanks for reading it as a serious question. I got confused.

 

[frankie]

Sometimes butt plates can be intimidating. I can tell you doing this procedure really can make it enjoyable but still kind of challenging. When one goes to push the butt plate up to the butt area (inletting black applied to the inside part of the crescent butt plate) I just put light pressure down on the upper stem and slide it forward as it aligns with the lower screw stud. Tap LIGHTLY the plate just above the stud. Pull it back and one will see the wood that needs to come off. This may need to be done from 1 to 80 times. Just remember the final outcome will have to live with. So take the time to make it perfect.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

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i like the screw idea! am right in the middle(i hope) of installing one.

Me too. Thanks for the tip frankie!!
Larry

 

[dr.beav]

Would Brownell's fiberglass work better than a dowel pin to fill the screw hole??

 

[Eric Krewson]

A dowel would be the best, easy to do over if things don't line up, on my fowler buttplate I did a bunch of do-overs, three on this hole alone. This was my second build an quite a struggle for this newbie to complete.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Pull it back and one will see the wood that needs to come off. This may need to be done from 1 to 80 times.

... and THAT is why inletting buttplates is my least favorite longrifle/musket work ... I don't find it technially hard, just more of a mental bear to grind through!

 

[frankie]

... and THAT is why inletting buttplates is my least favorite longrifle/musket work ... I don't find it technially hard, just more of a mental bear to grind through!

Yes flint usually time consuming

 

[frankie]

Would Brownell's fiberglass work better than a dowel pin to fill the screw hole??

A dowel is better by far

 

[poker]

Nice tip frankie.

 

[FlinterNick]

I just turned the stock on my duplicator machine. I havent sanded it down yet. Its just bare wood. The lighting makes it look like beeswax. lol But good question.

Where did you get your duplicator ?

 

[HighUintas]

@frankie , do you plan to use your duplicator for a fullstock long rifle? I'm wondering how well it would work since they are so long and thin.