• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

New to patched ball - what are these patches telling me ?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
May 18, 2021
Messages
362
Reaction score
343
Location
Central NJ
Cotton, soaked and well wrung out with melted Bore Butter
Shots all within a 9" circle at 50 yards (so needs work)
7 shots in order...........

Armsport 45 .430 ball .010 compressed cotton wad soaked w bore butter.jpg
 
Looks like a muzzle cut I saw several years back, but the above info would be needed.

Could be or a combo of cut and bad setup. I always smooth out the muzzle crown before even shooting a gun for the first time. It lets me load a tighter ball/patch easier and of course doen't cut the patch.
 
Ideally they should look good enough to use again. Like the others said, need more info. Some look like the patches burned through. Is it a new gun? New ones need broke in to smooth out, the crown and bore.
 
In terms of group size it would be handy to know what your rifle is, calibre, ball size and patch thickness.

I just use canola or Peanut oil for mine.

Mine look like this
Screenshot_20210610-000005_Gallery.jpg
 
New old stock never fired .45 Armi Sport Kentuckian

.430 ball. Cotton patch compressed at .010 wit hthe micrometer, 45 gr GOEX FF
Strip patch, ball pressed down with the short part of the starter ball, then cut off with a patch knife

Shot #9, swabbed the barrel once up and down with a wet patch and tried a .15 patch lubed with bore butter, went about halfway down and stuck tight. Had to bring the gun home and hammer the ball down with a leather mallet.
Shot it out, was actually one of the more accurate shots
 
I suspect your crown needs polishing as well as the rest of the bore, unfired barrels have a lot of little burs that destroy patches and make the gun very hard to load after a shot or two.

Look at your crown and see if you have any sharp edges, bet you do. Look up "Thumb smoothing crown" to see how to smooth the rough spots.

As for the bore, a small piece of green scotchbright pad used like a cleaning patch ( you will need a smaller jag) run up and down the length of the bore 50-100 times with smooth everything out.

I used the thumb method of smoothing a crown with good results but my last attempt was visibly off center just a hair. I saw one of these homemade "crown cutters "and made one to use , it cuts a perfectly smooth centered crown with 220 grit paper. I rotated the drill from 12-3-6-9 every 5 seconds to have even pressure all the way around, I only used the weight of the drill to cut.

coning.JPG
coning 2.JPG
 
I suspect your crown needs polishing as well as the rest of the bore, unfired barrels have a lot of little burs that r. I saw one of these homemade "crown cutters "and made one to use , it cuts a perfectly smooth centered crown with 220 grit paper. I rotated the drill from 12-3-6-9 every 5 seconds to have even pressure all the way around, I only used the weight of the drill to cut.

View attachment 80647

Good stuff there.
I'm pretty good on my wood lathe so whipping up one of those will be no problem
Question, what hardness of wood should I use ?
Soft / Pine, cedar,
Medium / Poplar, Oak,
Hard / Ironwood, rock maple

Also, that looks like it will cut a 45 degree angle, is that the correct angle or might shallower be better ?
 
1. Ditch the Bore Butter. 2. Polish the crown. 3. Use a thicker patch. 4. Use a decent patch lube. The prb should be a pretty tight fit but still seatable using the wood rod. A tight fit and good lube allows almost unlimited shooting without swabbing the bore. My .45 shoots a .440" or .445" ball, .024" canvas patch with either TOW's mink oil or Hoppes #9 BP Lube. Tight loads are almost always more accurate.

Patch lubricant substitution is allowed, but run it by me first. :ghostly:
 
I will have to check the angle, the guy who initially posted it here gave the angle but I forget, my angle isn't exactly like he stated but close.

I checked, my angle is 40 degrees, I turned the other end to be slightly under bore size and wrapped a piece of painters tape around that end so it would touch but not abrade the bore. I ran my drill on the slowest speed I could manage.

For the wood I used a stock cut off from a piece of hard sugar maple.
 
Any chance the patches are a cotton blend instead of 100 percent cotton?

I read the tag before purchasing (the smallest amount possible) It said 100% cotton

Every time I went out to pick up the just shot patch I had to step on it to stop the smoking, so who knows.

I'm hitting the Hobby Lobby for a few different patch samples tomorrow
 
As for the bore, a small piece of green scotchbright pad used like a cleaning patch ( you will need a smaller jag) run up and down the length of the bore 50-100 times with smooth everything out.

Another question, after cleaning I ran a patch soaked in Ballistol down the barrel before putting it away.
Do I need to wash that out before doing the scotchbrite thing ?
 
I would suggest you try to smooth the crown and polish the bore. Then try some shoots with an over powder wad to prevent burning the patch. A simple over powder wad can be made by simple folding over a cleaning patch.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top