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Frizzen fit?

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Anybody here ever have to fit a frizzen to the pan? I was working on a GPR kit I got for Christmas I've been concentrating on the stock and hadn't looked very closely at the metal parts. Upon closer inspection of the lock I noticed a sizable gap at the back of the pan by the hammer. It's large enough to see light through. It appears that the frizzen is riding high at the hinge portion of the pan.
 
Considering all my rifles to this point have been custom or semi-custom this is a learning curve for me. By the way the Trappers are sending out a couple of their members to have a look at my property, I'm pretty sure they will like what they see.
 
In some cases the fix of a frizzen/pan gap is near impossible without major surgery. A gap near the fence can be fixed by filing the top of the pan edge where it’s got a high spot until the fit is acceptable.
A gap at the edge closest to the pivot is not going away by filing unless there are tricks I don’t know. Fitting a new frizzen is one option but you need to follow the Dave Person hack ( he can chime in). A period frontier fix would be to build up the surface of the plan edge with braze then refitting. It’s easier than any other approach. Dug lock parts at fort and Native American sites from the 1600s and 1700s show brazing as the most common fix for all manner of broken lock situations- even springs were brazed sometimes.
Of course welding a fat bead all around the top of the pan and re-fitting can be done as well.
 
This lock is not even close to being as good as the other rifles I have it's not a water resistance like the others and doesn't fit nearly as well.
I've already ordered a set of L&R triggers for this rifle I may just go with a new L&R lock. I did see a video here where the person filed down the frizzen rather then the pan I'll have to have a better look at that.
 
now I read more carefully it seems it’s got a gap at the fence. Filing the pan edge at the hinge area will fix it. On many frizzens the pan cover is too hard to file.
 
Yes the frizzen is riding high on the edge of the pan in the hinge area and the gap is near the hammer.
It sounds like the hole for the frizzen screw that goes through the frizzen cam is improperly positioned. Can you post photos? It might be a simple thing of filling in the hole in the frizzen, and then redrilling the hole for the frizzen screw through the frizzen... depending on if they hardened the entire part or not.

LD
 
Put some inletting black on the under side of the frizzen pan cover. Make sure the frizzen spring is removed. Reinstall the frizzen with it's screw. Close the frizzen , so the pan cover contacts the pan leaving a black mark on the frizzen. file off the black mark. Repeat until the frizzen fits like it should. If you have a small file or two you can do this. Always chalk the cutting surface of a file w/ black board chalk so the file doesn't wear out.......Try not to complicate matters when the fix is easy....................oldwood
 
I wonder if this would be a good place for a dremel tool with slow cutting flat sided disk made of graytex rubber. Useually I think there ain't no screwed up gun that can't be made worse with a dremel tool but they do have some useful applications. :)
 
With the frizzen closed I hold the lock up to the light and see where it is hitting. Blacking also works for filing. A very thin, even line of light is OK. The priming won't fall out, but a big shining gap isn't good. If it will evenly clamp a piece of paper, you are good. That is about .004-.006" depending on the grade of the paper. Copier paper is about .004".
 
Like oldwood said, and If you don't have any inletting black,You can also blacken the under side with a candle soot by holding it under it.
 
Can we see a picture of the gap at the pan?
Here are a couple of photos of the gap it's easy to see against the light. I have a Dremel but would be hesitant to use it for fear of cupping the pan and I think a file would be more suited to the purpose.
 

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If it’s a new kit contact Lyman for a replacement lock. I had a problem with a percussion lock on a new Lyman last year. I sent the broken lock to them and they sent me a new one within a few days.
 
I leave the frizzen spring on and slam it closed with a piece of carbon paper laying on the pan, same idea as old wood, maybe a touch less messy. Flip the paper over and slam it shut again and see what appears on the frizzen. You may be surprised at what it tells you and what you can do to remedy the problem. Some times the axle hole in the frizzen is a bit oversize and without the spring adding tension it will give you a misreading. Unless you are well practiced with a dremel or flexible shaft tool, I would stick to files and stones. Best of luck to you.
Robby
 
Got the kit
If it’s a new kit contact Lyman for a replacement lock. I had a problem with a percussion lock on a new Lyman last year. I sent the broken lock to them and they sent me a new one within a few days.
Got the kit for Christmas I'm still working on the stock so the lock has never be fired. I was testing it for spark when I saw the gap.
I will call Lyman today and see what they have to say.
 

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