• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Lead melting pot

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yeah I think I'm pretty well settled on the pot Jethro posted a link to. It's cheap and only one thing to worry about instead of setting up a heat source and then a pot. Just easier for me to deal with one thing rather than a couple of things.

If I remember right, candle soot the mould before using too right?
 
Jethro224 said:
My bottom pour Lee drips sometimes, ran half a pot out one time, doesn't pour fast enough most times, but worked well once (not the first time). One of these days I'm going to weld it shut and just dip out of it. Until them I always sit my ingot mold under the spout while I use it, just in case.

Yep, I much prefer the ladle. IMHO it's the way to go. Cheaper and less trouble.
Had/have the same problem, Jethro, and couldn't agree with you more. I think I get better balls/bullets using a ladle, too. I've been going to empty my pots, unscrew the pour spout and plug it with a bolt/screw. Haven't got one of them roun tuits yet, though.
 
Swampy, that would be a good choice I think if you don't mind the price. It would be much easier for you I think than dealing with fire and fuel.
When you heat the mould in the lead it can get too hot. I have had it get too hot like that and it makes a mess.
Unless the mould is very rough I don't think you will need to smoke it but you can, I use a lighter to smoke them. Candle soot is thicker in my opinion.It can affect the weight of the finished ball or bullet. Most moulds don't have a problem with pure lead coming out of the mould. Pure lead will shrink more than wheel weight or other hard lead. This is why you leave a generous puddle on the top. When it shrinks the lead will pull into the mould. It is a great feeling to make your own bullet or ball to take an animal. Ron

Swampy said:
Yeah I think I'm pretty well settled on the pot Jethro posted a link to. It's cheap and only one thing to worry about instead of setting up a heat source and then a pot. Just easier for me to deal with one thing rather than a couple of things.

If I remember right, candle soot the mould before using too right?
 
I am with Jethro in liking the pot from MidSouth. However, I like the idea of the one that you posted which uses the whole unit to pour.

I might get one of these to make large runs of large caliber round balls and dive weights. (Another of my hobby addictions)

Thanks for making us aware of this!

CS
 
I'm sure it would come in handy for some. But dealing with nerve damage in my right hand, I don't want to be picking up a few lbs of molten lead everytime to fill a mould. :shocked2:
 
I bought a lee bottom pour production pot when they first came out. No leaks or plugs in a lot of years. :) Was thinking about replacing it with a newer model. Now I wonder if it I was lucky. :idunno: Will think a bit longer before retiring the old one. Larry
 
I guess Swampy has made up his mind but for you folks who are reading this and thinking of getting some sort of pot or pan to melt you lead please remember.
Do not use an Aluminum pan or pot.
At the temperature that is used for casting lead, aluminum looses almost all of its strength.

Because aluminum won't melt until it gets up to 1200 degrees F at 700 degrees F it will look just like it does when its sitting on your kitchen counter but the slightest force can cause it to literately fall apart dumping melted lead everywhere.
 
I'm another one that welded the bottom pour spout shut on my Lee pot. A lot less hassle than dealing with the drip-o-matic, and I have to cull a lot fewer balls.

I know there are people here who get upset when I mention that I welded the spout shut and write a long-winded post telling me what I should have done to fix the drip-o-matic, but I've learned that using a ladle is a much better way of casting for me.
 
I have a large bottom pour Lyman that I really like for 6 cavity molds but I end up using the little 4 pound Lee more often for small lots of bullets or single cavity molds. I prefer the Lyman ladle over any of the others.
 
I have used a Lee bottom pour for a lot of years with very little problem from dripping. I do keep a small, shallow, can under the spout and the little tha drips goes into it and I put it back into the pot periodically. I now use an RCBS Pro Melt, that drips once in a while, and the Lee is sitting on the shelf.
Mark
 
:doh: Duh! This isn't exactly new to me but I haven't done it in a very long time. Not since the mid 80's. I used to cast Lymans heavy skirt 540 gr? mini for my .58 back then. I just remembered I bought a big Lyman 20 lb pot back then. :shake: I just have no idea where it is now. I think it maybe buried out in one the bays in the barn where a lot of stuff got put and forgotten about during a move. Oh man, I'm going to havta get someone to go look through the stuff and hopefully find it. I have no idea where it would have ended up otherwise but I haven't used it since about 87' lol.
 
My father, brother, and I fixed Dad's bottom pour pot by first removing the steel plug. We found that it had tool marks on the tapered end that plugs the hole, so the first thing we did was polish that taper very smooth. The, on inspecting the hole in the bottom, we found burrs, and casting dross in the hole. Dad found the right size drill bit, and cut that out. Then, he took his next numbered sized bit and enlarged the hole, to make it concentrically ROUND. When we tested the steel plug, it fit very close, and the drips came pretty much to a stop, unless some dross clogged the hole and kept the plug from sealing it properly.

There was always a thin plate of steel under the pot, to protect the wood workbench on which it sat. The drips would land on that steel plate, and cool almost instantly( considering the size of that plate.) Dad liked to knock his sprues off onto the plate, and periodically collect all the lead to put back into the pot.

I preferred to knock the sprues off above the pot so they fell into the pot from the mold. It takes less time for the sprues to become molten lead my way, than if you put a lot of lead into the pot, where you then have to wait several minutes for the lead to come back up to casting temperature. Also, when you let the sprues and scraps and drips from the sides of the mold gather on the bench or plate, you risk contaminating the lead with paint, or wood chips, or sawdust, or even filing bits. All that then has to be skimmed off the top, and you also then have to flux the lead again to bring all the small stuff up to the surface. IMHO, all that extra work is a royal PITA!

I didn't try to change how my father cast balls and bullets, because he had been casting lead soldiers as a boy, and had always had some kind of casting equipment on hand. But, I handled the casting my own way.

The Benefit I found of using a bottom pour mold, is that I could get the lead INTO THE MOLD faster, using the bottom pour mold, rather than using a ladle to dip the molten lead out of the pot. With the hole and steel plug, or "Plunger" fixed, and polished, we almost never had any problems with the hole not closing. I dripped more lead off the side of the cut-off plate, and mold than ever came out of that hole in the pot as a "drip". Any drip was usually caught on the top of the cut-off plate, along with the spreading puddle of lead I put there to deal with bubbles and voids.

Getting the lead into the mold faster was important in pouring Large Caliber balls and bullets, where the lead would be cooling as soon as it left the pot. I also opened the hole in the cut-off plate, using a countersink, to let more lead pour into these large molds, faster. That helped eliminate wrinkled balls and bullets, and kept air voids or "bubbles" out of the lead balls and bullets.

We even enlarged the hole in our Lyman dipper to let more lead flow out of it faster, to help us cure some problems we had with lead not fully filling in the base of bullets under the cut-off plate. We resorted to using a pot and that dipper when the bottom pour mold was shipped back to the manufacturer to have it thermostat re-calibrated.

That is a caution I want to share with members new to casting. Those thermocouples corrode, and the calibration of the scales goes bad after a few years. Most all the factories offer a repair or re-calibration "overhaul" service, and its generally a lot cheaper than buying another electric casting pot. :thumbsup: :hatsoff: :hatsoff:
 
Swampy said:
:doh: Duh! This isn't exactly new to me but I haven't done it in a very long time. Not since the mid 80's. I used to cast Lymans heavy skirt 540 gr? mini for my .58 back then. I just remembered I bought a big Lyman 20 lb pot back then. :shake: I just have no idea where it is now. I think it maybe buried out in one the bays in the barn where a lot of stuff got put and forgotten about during a move. Oh man, I'm going to havta get someone to go look through the stuff and hopefully find it. I have no idea where it would have ended up otherwise but I haven't used it since about 87' lol.


:rotf:

You're too young to have a memory like mine!

The Lyman is a good furnace. I bet by the time you have it heated up, you'll remember lots of technique, too. If you were casting skirted mini's back then, you'll have no problems with 62 RBs. Walk in the park.
 
Oh man, having a terrible time dusting of cobwebs on brain cells lately. :haha: Big change with everything concerning me this past year. :shake:

I just decided to go to Lyman sight and see if they had a decent flat nose 9mm mould. I figured if I was going to do this, might as well. While I was there I looked at theit melting pots and had an "Wait a minute!" moment. :rotf: I remember having a Lee and the dripping problem most are posting about but totally forgot I got ****** and threw it out, bought the Lyman. :haha: :thumbsup: Now, if I can just find it...
 
This reply is not directed to anyone. My Lee bottom pour works. It doesn't leak too bad with proper cleaning. I have poured many different bullets with that pot. When I started to pour big bullets. Like over 400 grains I was having trouble with it. No matter how hot the lead was and how hot the mould was I was not getting the mould to fill out. There was a couple of problems. One, as the pot emptied the head pressure of the pot would reduce. This would cause slower flow. Also the spout would slightly plug and that would cause a slower flow. A slower flow will not allow the lead to fill out the mould. I switched to a ladle. The mould I was using was the Lee C-501-440-RF. The bullets went from 456 grains to 460 grains. just by using the ladle. What I found was a nice increase in accuracy. The bullets were also coming out closer to the target weight. And I got fewer culls. If I had to pour bullets under 350 to 400 grains I would use the bottom pour. For big ones I use a ladle. Ron
 
Idaho Ron said:
This reply is not directed to anyone. My Lee bottom pour works. It doesn't leak too bad with proper cleaning. I have poured many different bullets with that pot. When I started to pour big bullets. Like over 400 grains I was having trouble with it. No matter how hot the lead was and how hot the mould was I was not getting the mould to fill out. There was a couple of problems. One, as the pot emptied the head pressure of the pot would reduce. This would cause slower flow. Also the spout would slightly plug and that would cause a slower flow. A slower flow will not allow the lead to fill out the mould. I switched to a ladle. The mould I was using was the Lee C-501-440-RF. The bullets went from 456 grains to 460 grains. just by using the ladle. What I found was a nice increase in accuracy. The bullets were also coming out closer to the target weight. And I got fewer culls. If I had to pour bullets under 350 to 400 grains I would use the bottom pour. For big ones I use a ladle. Ron

Once again, invaluable first-hand experience. Many thanks Ron.

I hadn't made the connection, but when using the bottom spout for casting 58 cal LEE REAL's and Improved Minies and RB's in 62 cal (340 grain) and 75 cal (585 grains), my cull rate skyrockets. Back to the ladle.
 
Yeah I have to agree with that. Now that I have dusted off old brain cells. :haha: I remember having a hell of a time casting a good bullet. They were a gripe to come out right. I also remember using a ladle, and the reason you pointed out is probably why.
 
Hi Swampy...here is something I can maybe help you with after casting thousands of balls and minie's.
I use gas instead of an elect. pot and after casting lots of minie's I've the temp thing down pat. just a tip here.
What is very important is the danger when you start to melt. Because I use gas and I heat from the bottom of my pot I could have pressure problems with hot lead at the bottom and hard lead at the top of the pot. I set everything up turn on the gas and stand away untill it melts...very simple. I don't have to worry about ducking and turning. The ladle is laid on top of the hard lead and when it moves I know the lead is melted enough.
I melt in the basement so I have no disturbances...no cats and dogs, no children etc. I have a old stove fan that takes all gases and such and blows it outside the house.
NEVER drop anything into a pot of melted lead ANYTIME! keep the ladle in the pot if you are not using it (keeps it hot)untill you are done casting.
I have two pots, one on the thats melting and one where I knock my spru into and the "bad pours". When the melting pot is empty, I just exchange them with a pair of heavy pliers.
Pour constantly...I mean just keep going at a same rate.
heat your (steel)mould by dipping it in the melted lead for 1-2 minutes (just a corner of the mould). A Alu mold will be hot enough after about 5 pours so there is no need to "preheat"
I hope this helps... :2
 
After seeing the bad reviews of Tracks bag molds, I ordered a Lee .600 mold and a Lyman ladle. As soon as the weather breaks I'll get somebody to do a search and rescue for the melting pot I have stashed away somewhere.
 
Back
Top