Bore Lube Advice Sought

I have read some of the discussion regarding patch lube but may have missed anything about bore lube on this forum.

I have a Traditions .50 cal Kentucky Rifle and don't want to mess it up.

Whether using FFG, FFFG or Black Powder, what is the best bore lube?

Are there different lubes for different powders?

Does the patch determine what bore lube I should use?

Will regular gun lube/oil contaminate the powder? It would seem that it would. I have heard of bore butter but I do not know what it is. Is it a non-petroleum product?

Also, I have FFFG and it cleans with water, but what does it take to clean to clean up from Black Powder or FFG?

New friends from rendezvous suggested a combination of equal parts Murphy's Oil Soap, Peroxide and Rubbing Alcohol for clean up.

Then others say not to use alcohol!

Not a lot of knowledgable local gun shops with black powder stuff around here so your suggestions are appreciated.

I am anxious to start shooting but I want it to be a safe and pleasurable experience.

Thanks

 

[roundball]

You'll find thee are a variety of choices in this sport, and I can share what works well for me;

I use Goex FFFg in .45, .50, 54, and 62 calibers, it's fast, clean, and accurate;

I use nothing but Natural Lube 1000 (bore-butter) inside the bore and no direct petroleum products;

I use precut shooting patches that are prelubed with natural lube 1000; I also happen to use prelubed "wonderwads" over the powder but that's not an absolute necessity. However, it does reduce fouling so you don't have to wipe at all between shots, and the wad helps make a more consistent seal under the patched ball;

I've always followed TC Arms procedures to clean the bore with hot soapy water, scrub with a bore brush a few strokes every time to prevent buildup, rinse with plain hot water, get the bore bone dry, then lube the bore heavily with natural lube 1000.

 

[Zonie]

IMO the lube used is not affected by the type of or the granulation size of the powder.
As a general rule the FFFg and Pyrodex P is good for .45 cal and under rifles and all pistols. The FFg and Pyrodex RS is good for .50 cal and up although in medium loades (45-60 grain) it doesn't make much difference if you use FFFg or FFg.
For Lube I have used Spit Ball, Spit Patch, Wonder Lube 1000 (Remington was selling this under their own name too) and Crisco (or Safeways version of it) in my patched Round Ball guns. I think the Wonder Lube 1000 is about the best but that's just my opnion. Don't do what the old timers did and use spit. It will rust the bore in short order.
Crisco is best for unpatched Cap and Ball pistols. (or use Wonder Wads if price is no object) and I use it in my .58 Minie ball guns (Civil War type).
A few grains of powder getting soaked with bore lube will not have any effect on the power of the load so don't worry about a little lube on the patch. By the way, it only takes enough lube to coat all of the threads of the cloth so if you haven't pre lubed your patches, put a little dab on one side of the patch and press it thru the material with your thumb. It doesn't have to look real greasy.
To clean my rifles I remove my barrel and clean it with soap and water followed by multiple dry patches until no trace of water can be seen on them. I then hold the breech of the barrel over my gas stove to make sure all of the water is boiled out of the breech plug threads.
This is followed by a good dousing of Sheath (Birchwood Casey) in the bore and the breech plug threads. A coating of Paste Wax in the bore finishes it up.

 

[djnye]

frank,
i notice that you are from minnesota, eh. i'm from the u.p. and like yourself will be hunting in some very cold conditions(that is if you are planning on hunting). my inquiries so far have led me toward an animal fat for patch lube(mink oil is what i am trying now) and anhydrous alcohol--sometimes referred to as shellac thinner--for swabbing between shots. i have been cautioned away from rubbing alcohol because of the water in it. i use water for cleanup at home, but would be concerned that it might freeze in very cold conditions.

hope this helps, daniel

 

Expecting snow here, eh! This afternoon too, eh!

Haven't even test fired it yet but all of this advice is greatly appreciated. I have reloaded handgun and shotgun for years but this BP thing is completley new to me.

I have had the rifle for a year and have been going to rendezvous to gather info and meet people. Lots of suggestions there too, but now I am getting down to the nitty gritty of it and I still have a lot to learn.

Wonder Lube 1000 sounds like the way to go from many who have offered opinions.

I like using Sheath on my other firearms so that is good news. And paste wax in the bore seems like a great idea too for storage.

Rubbing alcohol will be substituted with anhydrous alcohol too. I wonder what kind of odor that has or is that just meant for target shooting?

I like the idea of a prelubed wonderwads too. Makes sense. Should help store the load better if not fired.

I have a ball puller but that can't be the way to unload a charge that is not fired. Wow! I wonder if a good text book could be recommended? I am missing a lot of the basics of BP shooting and firearm care. The rifle is too pretty to damage and I have grown fond of my ear lobe.

I sure appreciate all that has been written on my behalf. This is a great forum!

My neigbors will continue to hunt in my woods this year but next year I hope to be wise about the ways of BP and may take my turn down there too. We are heavily populated with both deer and turkey. The whole concept of BP firearms and rendezvous has been very appealing to me for a few years now. 'Bout time I begin to apply it.

Thanks to all.

 

[weasel]

Frank I'm a hopin ya never have to pull a ball but sooner or later somebody does if'n ya do render the powder inert [which goes without sayin]
a wet patched ball pulls a lot easier than a dry one use a good rod not the hickry ya got with the rifle and good luck also the quicker you can pull it the better. try not to let it go even over nite I have pulled some nasty ones for people but so far none on my own guns {knock on wood]
weasel

 

[Jack Walker]

Like most fellas here I use Wonder Lube, good in hot or cold conditions and almost eliminates the need to swab between shots.

 

[Zonie]

quote:...but sooner or later somebody does if'n ya do render the powder inert [which goes without sayin] As you are new to this heres hoping you don't think I'm talking "down" to you when I say: By inert, he's talking about removing the barrel and the nipple (for precussion) and getting all the water into the powder charge that you can get in there. Then letting it soak for a good length of time before you try the ball screw.
As for ball screws, I've used mine a few times and can say the dam things are a total PITA!! To begin with, when the screw threads into the ball/bullet it expands it into the bore making it almost impossible to get out without two people doing the pulling AND a cursin' to blue heaven!!
IMO if your on a hunt and don't fire during the day, either fire the load out or remove the priming or precussion cap and place the gun some place where it is out of the way and pointed in a safe direction (Not standing up where it might fall). Make sure Everyone in camp knows it is still loaded and that they are NOT to touch it for any reason.
The best way to get the ball out IMO is to shoot it out. If you don't want to use the ball screw or shoot it out there is a CO2 powered device that goes over the nipple and will safely blow out the powder and ball. It's a little pricey but it works.
Some may disagree with me but IMO if you ram a patched ball down and then realize you didn't pour in the powder (as all of us have done)and you don't have the CO2 device, I would recommend removing the nipple and carefully dribble powder down thru the nipple hole and into the chamber. Pounding lightly on the side of the gun will help the powder trickle in. Don't hurry. When you have about 4 or more grains (by weight) into the chamber and flash hole channel reinstall the nipple, install a new cap and fire the gun in a safe direction. If done right you will hear a mild bang. Watch the muzzle looking for a good poof of smoke indicating the ball is out. To check your success, run the ramrod down the bore. It should go all the way to the bottom. If the ball failed to exit the bore, ram it to the bottom and try again. This has always worked the first time for me).
Forgetting the powder won't be a problem if you Don't Talk To Anyone While Your Loading. That has been my downfall the few times I have had to remove the ball because of a lack of powder.
Good Hunting. I know you'l enjoy it.

 

Frank,
As my fellow Arizonian, "Zonie" said the best way to get that ball out is with a co2 discharger. Traditions makes one and so does another company that has almost the same design as the Traditions model. They cost about $25.00 but if you have ever had to pull a ball they are sure worth every penny. They come with a standard nipple for a percussion nipple but they sell other adapters for musket and flintlocks.
Any way have agreat time shootin'!!!!!!

 

[roundball]

Well, I have a different view...not to debate, just to share a different view:
Whenever I need to pull a load, I seal the nipple or vent, and use the non-sparking brass ball puller attachment on my ramrod and screw it into the non-sparking lead ball, and simply pull it right out...done it many, may times after a hunt
where I didn't shoot during the hunt, and I don't shoot a rifle just to unload it.

The powder isn't simply going to "go off" by itself...it has to have an ignition source.
And there is as much, if not more, risk loading a rifle and seating a ball on the powder charge in the first place than there is just pulling a ball.
Your mileage may vary...

 

[Randy]

Wonder lube or Bore Butter has always been my choice. It sure gets stiff in the cold though. I used to live across the river from Frank, in Alma, WI. For winter hunting I used "Mink Oil" it's not so stiff in the cold and doesn't dry out in my speed loader tubes.

I made a ramrod attachment that has a small piece of 3/16 drill bit soldered to it. If I have to pull a ball I use this to drill a hole partway into the ball. Then the screw goes in easier.

Horse Dr.

 

Great tips guys. Thank you one and all. I feel like I have many friends out there. I'd rather be safe than sorry and the advice is all good.

I have "range rod" because the Traditions Rifle did not come with a threaded rod. It's made of some composite material and I need to cut it down a bit after I mark the length of the bore both empty and loaded.

I like the idea of pre-drilling the ball when I make my first big screw-up and have to pull a ball. I have a friend who may be able to weld up a 3/16 bit to a threaded piece for me. I have also heard of trickling powder down through the nipple. Thanks for detailed explanation.

Wonder Lube sounds like the way to go except maybe when it's very cold, and then mink oil may be a better choice as suggested by my former neighbor across the river in Alma, WI.

If I can get a CO2 discharger on our next trip to Cabela's, it sounds like a real time and effort saver. But I feel more confident if I do have to pull a ball.

Thanks again, everyone, for all the suggestions and tips.