.40 vs .36?

[azmntman]

Just buy one. We all know you'll have both in due time. After all we are addicts :hmm:

 

[MSW]

In my humble opinion, the .40 would be your best bet. It will buck the wind just a tiny bit better than a .36 and will still be a good squirrel gun. Admittedly, it is on the large side of squirrel calibers but it will still work if you limit your shots to head shots. Another advantage to the .40 over the .36 is weight. The bore of the .40 is slightly larger than a .36 meaning that any barrel of a given size will weigh less with the bore being .40 VS .36. If weight is a factor, keep this in mind. If you can afford it, I recommend a swamped A weight barrel for your rifle. It is lighter and looks much better than a straight or larger barrel. That's my opinion, anyway. :thumbsup:

what he said ...especially about the swamped barrel ... they cost a good bit more, but they're more than worth it.

free advice, and doubtless well worth the price =)

 

[mooman76]

I'd have to agree. I think 36 would do the job but if in doubt and you can only afford one, you would be better off going with the 40.

 

[Tinker2]

I did go after jacks in the Mojave desert.
Deadman's point mostly with a .36 so I know that worked.





William Alexander

 

[Col. Batguano]

You're only 26. Since you're on something of a limited budget and with a limited stable of guns, start with the one that will cover the most ground for you. In that case a 40 would probably do it. When you start acquiring more guns then you can afford to have those that are more specialized. An example in modern guns would be shotguns with interchangeable chokes. When you only have 1 you get one with an intermediate length barrel, and a set of choke tubes, probably in 12 gauge. That way you can cover everything from grouse to geese.

When your means increases, and your stable starts getting bigger maybe you acquire a light, small gauge multi barrel gun, with shorter barrels and differing chokes for fast woods shooting of grouse, and a heavier 10 gauge long barreled gun for geese. The guns become more specialized as your means can accommodate.

BP guns are no different. A 48" barreled smallbore LR is not going to do the same sort of tasks as a larger bored 31" German Jaeger. Both are pretty much specialty guns. You're probably better off starting with something in between, that can handle a multitude of jobs for you.

 

[coloradoclyde]

Clyde's Loaded? :shocked2:
:rotf:

Saw me on Forbes list did you? :wink:

 

[smoothshooter]

Go with a .40 so you can have a little thicker and tougher ramrod.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Go with a .40 so you can have a little thicker and tougher ramrod.

Hey! I resemble that remark. :wink:
Actually, I am a bit of nut on the subject of ramrod safety. Strongly recommend an unbreakable rod for field use. My favored material is Delrin. Some don't like it because of flexibility. But, if used properly (gripping near the muzzle not high up) they are great and easy on the bore.

 

[nkbj]

Eh, aint too sure about this... might have to get one that shot the same ball as a revolver and that way save money by buying both.

 

[Col. Batguano]

That's a 38 caliber. 36 cal revolvers shoot .375 RB's.

 

[Eterry]

I went with a 40, was thinking of the 36 but my friend reminded me the 40 will double as a deer rifle...nuff said.

I find if I grip my Wooden ramrod near the muzzle I have no problem loading a round ball. That said I have made many wooden ramrods in the last 37 years...they do finally fail. I've been blessed and caught it before a catastrophe.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I find if I grip my Wooden ramrod near the muzzle I have no problem loading a round ball. That said I have made many wooden ramrods in the last 37 years...they do finally fail. I've been blessed and caught it before a catastrophe.

Man :shocked2: that is scary. That's like saying "I drove drunk many times and never had an accident.......yet!" :shake:

 

[nkbj]

That's a 38 caliber. 36 cal revolvers shoot .375 RB's.

Yeh man, and I's is trying to make my mind up on what to do with a left hand flinter GPR barrel. That would make it about like the .38 bore half stocks you see it museums except no caps popping in my face. But... been threatenin' to make it shoot .41 balls. Reckon I'll figger it out one of these days.

 

[coloradoclyde]

I find if I grip my Wooden ramrod near the muzzle I have no problem loading a round ball. That said I have made many wooden ramrods in the last 37 years...they do finally fail. I've been blessed and caught it before a catastrophe.

Man :shocked2: that is scary. That's like saying "I drove drunk many times and never had an accident.......yet!" :shake:

Not really...The #1 cause of car accidents is distracted driving.....It's probably the #1 cause of dry balling and broken ramrods too....

I've never seen a drunk break a ramrod.....But then I don't want to either....

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Is it unsafe to use a wooden ramrod in the field?

I'd like to as it is authentic.

 

[Danny Ross]

Wood ramrods are very traditional and very reliable. As with anything abuse them, misuse them, you will have issues. They can wear out but that is going to take a number of loadings for that to happen. That is why you use a range rod when you go to the practice range and when you regularly clean you rife. So take care of it and you won't have issues with yours. DANNY

 

[mooman76]

Get you a proper straight grained hickory rod and use it properly and it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Zonie]

Is it unsafe to use a wooden ramrod in the field?

I'd like to as it is authentic.

Nothing wrong with using a wooden ramrod to load with.
That's how it was done for several hundred years.

There are a couple of things that make using a wooden ramrod unique.

First off, they must be straight grained and the grain of the wood must run from one end of the ramrod to the other without breaking out the side.

If they are not breaking out of the side of the ramrod, it will have a fairly uniform look to it.

If the grain does break out the side of the ramrod, shapes that look like the lines in this drawing will be noticed.

If you see these breakouts, DO NOT use the ramrod for anything except decoration.

Those stripes are the hard layers of grain bordering the weak layers of grain.
The weak grain can split creating a razor sharp point of the hard grain and it can easily poke a hole clean thru your hand or wrist.

The other thing that is important to remember if your using a wooden ramrod is, if it is bent too far while ramming the ball it can break.

To get around this problem, make it a habit to grab the rod no further than a foot above the muzzle. Then, push it down, move your hand up another foot, grab the rod and push it down.

Continue this until the ball or slug is sitting firmly on the powder.

I have never heard of a good, sound wooden ramrod without grain runout ever breaking when this method of ramming was used.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Yes I have bought a hickory ramrod blank from Track of the Wolf. Advertised as straight grain. Got it and it was loaded with runouts.

I'd love to find a source for true, inspected straight grained hickory rods. Yes I know I can go out to the forest and cut a limb and shave it and etc. etc. etc. but I'd rather just buy one, I'm a lazy American.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Is it unsafe to use a wooden ramrod in the field?

I'd like to as it is authentic.

Nothing wrong with using a wooden ramrod to load with.
That's how it was done for several hundred years.

There are a couple of things that make using a wooden ramrod unique.

First off, they must be straight grained and the grain of the wood must run from one end of the ramrod to the other without breaking out the side.

If they are not breaking out of the side of the ramrod, it will have a fairly uniform look to it.

If the grain does break out the side of the ramrod, shapes that look like the lines in this drawing will be noticed.

If you see these breakouts, DO NOT use the ramrod for anything except decoration.

Those stripes are the hard layers of grain bordering the weak layers of grain.
The weak grain can split creating a razor sharp point of the hard grain and it can easily poke a hole clean thru your hand or wrist.

The other thing that is important to remember if your using a wooden ramrod is, if it is bent too far while ramming the ball it can break.

To get around this problem, make it a habit to grab the rod no further than a foot above the muzzle. Then, push it down, move your hand up another foot, grab the rod and push it down.

Continue this until the ball or slug is sitting firmly on the powder.

I have never heard of a good, sound wooden ramrod without grain runout ever breaking when this method of ramming was used.

Worth repeating, and repeating. Valuable post. :thumbsup:
No run-out blanks are hard to find anymore, mebbe impossible. That is why I went to Delrin about 30 years ago.