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Why Do Shotgun Patterns Change?

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As a matter of fact, I have seasoned a few cast iron skillets. Can't see any comparison between them and a gun barrel. The only reason I questioned things is because in your article you say, "those pores in steel are filled with trace elements, so there is no room to allow oils or other sustances to be burned into the pores". Then in this thread you said, "the nature of the natural lubes will fill the pores in the steel". I've been at this for nearly 40 years and I still get confused a bit and am constantly trying to learn from you veterans on this forum but I know I can be a bit dense at times I simply can't imagine how a newbe could sort all this stuff out when so many things seem so contradictory. I understand loading a smoothbore and what you're trying to do by lubing either before during or after loading. All your suggestions are very helpful and I appreciate them and your patience. It's just that when it's said the steel can absorb the oil but then the steel can't absorb the oil I tend to get confused again. Please don't lose your patience with me. I read and appreciate all you say. Thanks Paul.
 
Thanks for the explanation. I too continue to search for answers. I have talked to every Black Powder Gunsmith, or gunmaker I have met about how Iron Barrels were "Seasoned" back in the day( prior to 1800, roughly. I have searched the literature I HAVE for the answers, and its still a mystery to me.

What I do know is that we have members here who have made a lot of money buying T/C rifles that were " Shot out", according to their owners, because they could no longer see any "grooves" in the rifling. Our members( Mark Lewis of Florida comes to mind) report taking those barrels out of the stock, soaking them in soap and water, and then working them over with bore brushes, to remove all the caked CRUD left in the barrels by the prior owners, following the "advice?" given in the T/C handbook about using "More Bore Butter" if he loading gets "hard".

Somehow, the prior owners skip the part about cleaning. When our members finish with the cleaning THAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN DONE, that $75.00 piece of junk, is not a well rifled, almost like new, used gun that they can now sell for several hundred dollars on the used gun market.

I personally know a couple of shooters at my gun club who have bought used guns cheap, that just needed to be cleaned, from people who simply didn't know, or want to know how to keep a MLER. The argument about "seasoning" a barrel relates right back to those handbooks put out by T/C, and their desire to have their customers buy their loading products to use in their guns.

When I am at gunshows, and some pawn shops or gun stores, I am always on the look out for a T/C that is given a low price because the rifling is "shot out". You will be surprised how many dealers, and clerks in gun shops, and pawn shops have NO CLUE how to shoot or clean BP rifles. There are deals out there to be made, if you are patient.
 
Ye Archer what are you talking about? Hunting or clays? Each has a different method to it. When you are hunting you typically don't take many shots. I think I only shot 6 or 8 times last pheasant season. Most reproduction shotguns have chrome barrels so that day out in the field where you may or may not tale a shot leaves little concern for leading or rust problems. Last deer season I only shot once (10 days!) but if you are talking target shooting or clays you must take additional steps. But whatever, don't try to make it harder than it has to be because it isn't necessary.
 
...following the "advice?" given in the T/C handbook about using "More Bore Butter" if he loading gets "hard".

Mr. Vallandigham,
I have several (many) TC manuals here and I don't remember what page this advise was on. I must have missed it. There is a sentence on page 25 that says, “It (Bore Butter) should be rubbed into the patch material with the fingers. Saturation of the patch material should be complete but not excessive.”

Just curious.
 
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