• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Wheel-lock plans online!

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DutchmanDick

40 Cal.
Joined
Mar 30, 2009
Messages
192
Reaction score
0
Check it out!
http://www.thedisease.net

They've got some wacky survivalist/anarchist stuff on the site (some of it is a bit out there, even for me! :hmm: ), but if you go to their "gunsmithing" section, near the bottom of the list is a downloadable PDF file that contains a complete set of instructions and dimensioned drawings for building a wheel lock pistol or rifle from scratch. Pretty cool! :grin:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Those plans have been discussed here before. They are a decent start, but be careful with the dimensions - the ones listed are decimal approximations of metric dimensioning after being converted to USCS measurements. If you follow them exactly, you will have alignment issues. Best to not drill the holes in the plate before you have all the pieces made. It's been recommended that you make a pattern out of wood with which to test fitment.
 
Can't be much worse than the Girandoni air rifle I built from a British book (Construction and Operation of the Air Gun, vol. 1by Baker and Currie). There, I had to convert metric dimensions to inches. Came out a bit crude and funny-looking, but it will launch a .451 ball with the M.E. of a pistol.
 
Rich Knack said:
Can't be much worse than the Girandoni air rifle I built from a British book (Construction and Operation of the Air Gun, vol. 1by Baker and Currie). There, I had to convert metric dimensions to inches. Came out a bit crude and funny-looking, but it will launch a .451 ball with the M.E. of a pistol.

Strange that you had problems converting one to another. I build live-steam locomotives and move easily between metric and imperial dimensions - often working to tolerances of 0.001".

None of my locomotives end up 'a bit crude and funny-looking' unless they are actualy meant to look like that in the fust place.

tac
Supporter of the Cape meares Lighthouse Restoration Fund
 
It didn't help that I was trying to manually machine the receiver out of steel rather than working from a brass casting (like the originals). Also not all of the angles were specified so I had to try to measure the drawings with a protractor. It is probably the most complex project I ever did. I'm just glad it works! :D
 
When my Dad started building an aeroplane in 1970 he was a traditional carpenter, working in fractional inches. The plans came in mm, and he was very pleasantly surprised how easily he picked up metric. A decent steel rule, a metric vernier, and away he went.

I have the Lauber book in inch, had it since it was new but I preferred to design my own puffer to build (in metric) as the Lauber design is soooooo ugly.
 
There are a lot of things about the instructions in that book that also are incorrect, particularly the hardening and tempering procedures. I've redrawn every part of the lock in AutoCAD and found numerous errors in the geometry so I would definitely proceed slowly.
 
Can't help adding my 2 centavo's worth here, having made many mistakes. I think there's a natural tendency to want to start by making the lockplate first. I think for a first build,draw out the rough outline and drill the axle hole first. Everything works outwardly from that point. Then the axle and chain. After you have the parts installed, you can final shape the plate. It's easier to fit the lugs to the mainspring then vice versa. I don't think there's any magic in the dimensions. I think the only way exact dimensions are important is if your trying to fit a stock already cut.
 
Alexander L. Johnson said:
There are a lot of things about the instructions in that book that also are incorrect, particularly the hardening and tempering procedures. I've redrawn every part of the lock in AutoCAD and found numerous errors in the geometry so I would definitely proceed slowly.
I did the same on paper after finding errors in the drawings. Make one part at a time and you should be able to avoid trouble.
 
I do agree with you in a way, but I also feel that if a drawing is to be dimensioned it should be done accurately. I teach computer aided design and manufacturing process courses and if I had a student turn in an assignment with this many errors I would give them a failing grade. The Lauber dimensions, in some instances, are outright misleading and will get you into trouble if you try to follow them as printed. The book does give you a good understanding of the workings of the lock however and for that Lauber's work is to be commended.
 
I don't know that it's Lauber's fault the dimensions are off. I've seen other versions of it printed in metric (though, they were incomplete, they appeared to be original). I think someone had the brilliant idea to convert the metric dimensioning to SI, but used decimal approximations, which, when compounded, result in fitment issues.

I ran across another set of plans somewhere years ago, which seemed more accurate, though I never started modeling it. I don't know if they're available any more, or where I got them from.
 
I've never seen the metric version of the drawings and some error could crop into the drawings during conversion, but it is defintely extreme in some instances.
 
You are correct as far as the accuracy of the drawings. I was really addressing construction. I guess my point is that it becomes a matter of understanding the relationship of the parts, and what makes it work. I just hope more folks will try building the lock, and not be intimidated by the apparent complexity of drawings. I made a mistake in trying to follow too closely in cutting out the lockplate. That resulted in the mainspring being too close to the outer edges of the plate. Made inletting very difficult......fact is resulted in my remaking a stock! A really unnecessary step.
 
TN Hills guy said:
You are correct as far as the accuracy of the drawings. I was really addressing construction. I guess my point is that it becomes a matter of understanding the relationship of the parts, and what makes it work. I just hope more folks will try building the lock, and not be intimidated by the apparent complexity of drawings. I made a mistake in trying to follow too closely in cutting out the lockplate. That resulted in the mainspring being too close to the outer edges of the plate. Made inletting very difficult......fact is resulted in my remaking a stock! A really unnecessary step.
Got photos?
 
The link no longer seems to work. BUMMER ... I was looking forward to downloading the complicated wheelock plans. I've always been fascinated by wheelocks. :idunno:
 
I also have those plans downloaded. As I recall, some members have said there are discrepancies in some of the measurements, so double check the parts . I will see if I can find the references to the mistakes.
 
There is an exploded drawing of a lock here but no measurements if that helps any. also a list of referrences.

http://annals.xlegio.ru/evrope/behaym/behaym23.htm
 
Back
Top