The percussion lock gun I have is in desperate need of restoration and I don't have a clue who to talk to. No offense to any gunsmith, but just handing this off to someone not well versed in these rifles is not an option for me. If I have offended anyone for that comment, my apologies. To be honest, I have no idea what I have and would appreciate someones help in determining where it even came from. The gun has a Golcher lock and curly maple stock and has other engravings on it. I know it is very old because the story goes that my fathers great grandmother aquired it for babysitting. She called it a "squirrel gun". My dad also lists it as a 36 caliber. Is their someway to send pictures on this website? I'd be happy to show this gun to anyone. It certainly doesn't belong beside my gun cabinet rusting away because it doesn't fit. I'm just waiting for the old man to rise up from the grave and slap me one if I don't do something
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What is this gun?
- Thread starter TClawson
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If you go here, there are threads that will answer your questions on posting images,
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showforum.php?fid/46/
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showforum.php?fid/46/
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The fact that you posted these messages is enough to give you the rights to post your pictures.
Your pictures need to be uploaded to a web server place like Photobucket.
You can join Photobucket for free and upload your pictures to it. Then copy the "IMG CODE" that appears below the thumbnail picture at that site.
Come back to our forum and "paste" that code into your message and your picture will appear here.
Your pictures need to be uploaded to a web server place like Photobucket.
You can join Photobucket for free and upload your pictures to it. Then copy the "IMG CODE" that appears below the thumbnail picture at that site.
Come back to our forum and "paste" that code into your message and your picture will appear here.
In case you're unsure of how to upload to a Photobucket account, I wrote up a full tutorial a bit ago:
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showpost.php?post/751794/
In this tutorial, I used the 1st line of code that Claude mentions in his Photobucket guide, but using the 2nd set will work fine as well, and saves a few steps.
Claude's guide: http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showpost.php?post/602550/
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showpost.php?post/751794/
In this tutorial, I used the 1st line of code that Claude mentions in his Photobucket guide, but using the 2nd set will work fine as well, and saves a few steps.
Claude's guide: http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showpost.php?post/602550/
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ohio ramrod
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You are so right about not taking it to just anyone. I had a friend who would take his guns to the local "gunshop" to get them fixed and they always came back screwed up. Then he would bring them to me to fix. It would have been far better if he had brought them to me or anyone else who works on traditional guns first. Instead of taking them to a shop that usually only does simple work on modern guns.
54ball
62 Cal.
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Whats wrong with it?
It looks to me like it needs no restoration at all. A simple cleaning and oiling may be all thats needed plus a ramrod.
When I say cleaning I mean just that not an aggressive refinish.
If the bore is gone you could have relined to shoot like new.
BTW looks it like an Ohio Valley long rifle to me.
It looks to me like it needs no restoration at all. A simple cleaning and oiling may be all thats needed plus a ramrod.
When I say cleaning I mean just that not an aggressive refinish.
If the bore is gone you could have relined to shoot like new.
BTW looks it like an Ohio Valley long rifle to me.
zimmerstutzen
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I just sold an original working Golcher that I rescued from a "pile of parts" gun. Real basket case.
Anyway, There probably fewer than a half dozen folks I would trust to work on an original lock from an heirloom like that. One is Chuck Dixon in Kempton PA. (Dixon's Muzzleloader Shop) He worked on my great great grandad's Civil War musket and fixed the lock up very nice, even did it with original parts. (It isn't worth much, a cut down Pottsdam musket, but it is family) He kept the patina the way it was and there's no way to tell that it was worked on.
If you are anywhere in the midAtlantic, it is worth the trip just to visit his shop. Call and make an appointment and to make sure they are open. They are closed Wed's. Perhaps you could call him and make arrangments to send just the lock. It would make me nervous to seperate the gun, and there would definitely be insurance on the package. Chuck has always been the best sort of person and probably the most honest man I ever met.
Anyway, There probably fewer than a half dozen folks I would trust to work on an original lock from an heirloom like that. One is Chuck Dixon in Kempton PA. (Dixon's Muzzleloader Shop) He worked on my great great grandad's Civil War musket and fixed the lock up very nice, even did it with original parts. (It isn't worth much, a cut down Pottsdam musket, but it is family) He kept the patina the way it was and there's no way to tell that it was worked on.
If you are anywhere in the midAtlantic, it is worth the trip just to visit his shop. Call and make an appointment and to make sure they are open. They are closed Wed's. Perhaps you could call him and make arrangments to send just the lock. It would make me nervous to seperate the gun, and there would definitely be insurance on the package. Chuck has always been the best sort of person and probably the most honest man I ever met.
grey8833
40 Cal.
1. More pictures
2. More pictures
3. What wrong with it?
- Bore gone?
- What is the gray stuff under the patch box?
4. More pictures
And no, do not send it to "Joe's Gun Shop", unless Joe builds muzzleloaders for a living.
Mike F
2. More pictures
3. What wrong with it?
- Bore gone?
- What is the gray stuff under the patch box?
4. More pictures
And no, do not send it to "Joe's Gun Shop", unless Joe builds muzzleloaders for a living.
Mike F
First off,thanks to everyone who helped in getting pics put on here. Second thanks to all who responded in kind. I've got more pics to put on, just not right now, but there coming.
Zimmerstutzen: Since I live in Pa. I will be looking up Mr. Dixon. Thanks! Here's a little tidbit. This gun used to belong to a man named Thomas Dixon who lived in the late 1800's here in western Pennsylvania. He is the one who gave this gun to my great great grandmother for babysitting. Probably no relation.
This gun hasn't been fired in 70+ years that I know of. The hammer will not stay cocked even with the rear trigger set. For all I know the darn thing is loaded. While my knowledge and training of modern firearms cleaning is pretty good. I'm still a greenhorn at the muzzleloaders, and have no clue how to clean one let alone an antique guys. I will let a pro work on this piece of American history. I certainly don't want to damage it trying.
pics are coming. having trouble getting my forgotten password with photobucket.
Again, thanks everyone!
Zimmerstutzen: Since I live in Pa. I will be looking up Mr. Dixon. Thanks! Here's a little tidbit. This gun used to belong to a man named Thomas Dixon who lived in the late 1800's here in western Pennsylvania. He is the one who gave this gun to my great great grandmother for babysitting. Probably no relation.
This gun hasn't been fired in 70+ years that I know of. The hammer will not stay cocked even with the rear trigger set. For all I know the darn thing is loaded. While my knowledge and training of modern firearms cleaning is pretty good. I'm still a greenhorn at the muzzleloaders, and have no clue how to clean one let alone an antique guys. I will let a pro work on this piece of American history. I certainly don't want to damage it trying.
pics are coming. having trouble getting my forgotten password with photobucket.
Again, thanks everyone!
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Klaw said:
Sir, for obvious reasons, it's quite important that you find out if the gun is loaded or not.
Put a ram rod or suitable piece of dowel down the barrel as far as it will go - it SHOULD go to a point at least level with the flash-hole/touch-hole. If it does not, either the gun is loaded or it has another kind of obstruction in the breech, and you'll need to do some serious thinking about your next step.
If this is the case, then come back to this site without delay to get advice on your next move.
For what it's worth - we had a P53 hanging on the wall in a local pub - when the new owners moved in they found that it was still loaded from the last time it had been used - to celebrate Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee in 1897.
tac
whitedog333
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You never said what the grey material is on the buttstock. Is that some type of synthetic patchwork to the wood? Your trigger set screw in front of your set trigger might be turned it too far and not allowing the forward trigger to stay set. It's all very simple to adjust everything and clean and oil even if you have to take the lock plate off and the trigger plate. However, DO NOT try this yourself. You'll probably bugger it up accidentaly. Anyone who actually builds longrifles can figure out what's wrong. Many who just shoot longrifles can also. However, what is easy for some to figure out and fix won't necessarily be easy for just anyone who owns a set of screw drivers and who owns a gun store. Not even just a guy who shoots a "muzzleloader" . It should be looked at by someone who's seen a lot of antique firearms ans who's familiar with Double Set Triggers and their associated locks.
The "grey" coloring has been there for as long as I know. It looks like someone many years ago had a leather patch placed around the butt-stock, but I thought that was only if the stock was cracked or damaged. As far as I can tell, the integrity of the stock is fine. That area is tacky though. ????
paulvallandigham
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Klaw: The Barrel is rifled using a single cutter rifling machine, such as is demonstrated at Dixon's GunMaker's Fair every July.
( See his Website. http://dixonmuzzleloading.com/index.php?section=gunmakersfair )
If I were you, I would not hesitate a Day making that trip to Dixon's shop. Chuck is skilled enough to get the trigger/sear/tumbler working again, or repair any of them that is broken.
As to the letters on the top flat, do a pencil rub on paper over the lettering to see it much better. DO NOT polish the top flat OFF to remove crud that is obscuring the letters! If a rag, and some alcohol does not remove the crud, then use a stick of wood to burnish the crud off, but put oil on the surface that is to be rubbed with the stick, so that the crud( mostly oxides) will not become an abrasive and scratch the barrel. Clean the stick's end Frequently! Re-oil the surface any time it becomes bare, or "dry", until you finish the work.
I have used a paint stirring stick they give you at paint stores to do this kind of burnishing successfully, on old metal parts.
The idea is to find ways to remove the crud, and oxides, without abrasives, and without turning the oxides into abrasives that will scratch the metal you are trying to clean. I use motor oil, simply because I have it in my garage for my car/truck. Its heavy enough to coat the metal fully, and helps float the oxides and crud away from the metal, then surrounds the crud, and leaves it suspended in the oil so that it does not abrade the metal.
On that stain on the buttstock, if its tacky, as you describe, I suspect someone has allowed some kind of alcohol based solvent to contact the stock at that point, and the finish has been partially dissolved. That is unfortunate, because the solvents may also now be down in the wood fibers too. Chuck Dixon can take a good look at this, tell you the extent of the problem, if there is one, and fix it, or tell you how to fix it.
Congratulations on owning a fine, old, original gun. Oh, that barrel is made of IRON, not steel, so be nice to it. :thumbsup:
( See his Website. http://dixonmuzzleloading.com/index.php?section=gunmakersfair )
If I were you, I would not hesitate a Day making that trip to Dixon's shop. Chuck is skilled enough to get the trigger/sear/tumbler working again, or repair any of them that is broken.
As to the letters on the top flat, do a pencil rub on paper over the lettering to see it much better. DO NOT polish the top flat OFF to remove crud that is obscuring the letters! If a rag, and some alcohol does not remove the crud, then use a stick of wood to burnish the crud off, but put oil on the surface that is to be rubbed with the stick, so that the crud( mostly oxides) will not become an abrasive and scratch the barrel. Clean the stick's end Frequently! Re-oil the surface any time it becomes bare, or "dry", until you finish the work.
I have used a paint stirring stick they give you at paint stores to do this kind of burnishing successfully, on old metal parts.
The idea is to find ways to remove the crud, and oxides, without abrasives, and without turning the oxides into abrasives that will scratch the metal you are trying to clean. I use motor oil, simply because I have it in my garage for my car/truck. Its heavy enough to coat the metal fully, and helps float the oxides and crud away from the metal, then surrounds the crud, and leaves it suspended in the oil so that it does not abrade the metal.
On that stain on the buttstock, if its tacky, as you describe, I suspect someone has allowed some kind of alcohol based solvent to contact the stock at that point, and the finish has been partially dissolved. That is unfortunate, because the solvents may also now be down in the wood fibers too. Chuck Dixon can take a good look at this, tell you the extent of the problem, if there is one, and fix it, or tell you how to fix it.
Congratulations on owning a fine, old, original gun. Oh, that barrel is made of IRON, not steel, so be nice to it. :thumbsup:
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