Wedge basics

[Steven Worden]

I'm looking for instruction on disassembly and reassembly of a cap and ball pistol. Is it normal to have to use a hammer to drive the wedge in or out? Should it be seated to the stop on reassembly? If I do that 9n my Walker, the gun won't cycle.

 

[Gtrubicon]

I used a mallet to disassemble and assemble my Pietta 1860.

 

[Phil Coffins]

I use the handle of a screw driver to knock them loose and to reseat them. If the arbor is the correct length you can’t drive them in to far as it limits how far the wedge will go in.

 

[Dude]

Your gun has a short arbor. There are many threads on this topic - some going right now. Read up then come back with questions.

 

[Gee Dog]

No hammers! Use a resin or leather mallet.

Mike Beliveau has the best assembly / disassembly vids. Takes newbs all the way through the drill and back again.

 

[Trinidad Bill]

Where are Mike’s assembly/disassembly videos?

 

[Dude]

This is where you'll find Mike's videos: duelist1954 - YouTube

 

[Johnny Tremain]

When mine was given to me, the wedge was a tad to narrow and would move while firing.
I bought a new one and now I have to tap it out.
Make me feel safer

 

[wiscoaster]

... Should it be seated to the stop on reassembly? If I do that 9n my Walker, the gun won't cycle.

Sounds to me like you're driving the wedge in too far, causing the forcing cone to contact the cylinder face and lock it up. I just normally push the wedge in with thumb pressure until it stops. At this point the barrel and frame are solid (no "endshake") and the cylinder rotates freely. Needs a light tap to get it started on the way out then can be pulled all the way with fingers.

 

[GR50036]

Wisecoaster is right. Put the wedge in until its hand-tight, and then I usually give it a tap with the handle of my mallet.

 

[Trinidad Bill]

This is where you'll find Mike's videos: duelist1954 - YouTube

Oh, that Mike! Yes I have watch his videos. I thought the reference was to the Mike on the forum, 45D.

 

[bigstick6017555]

I use a small pocket screw driver (plastic) handle and tap gently on both of my 1851 Colt Navies for installing and removing the wedge. Actually, I can feel through vibration and sound of wedge when tight enough

 

[Codger Craig Wilcox]

With You Tube censoring gun building and repairing, Mike's vids of that type can be found on Rumble.com - look for Duelists Den.

 

[45D]

Actually, the wedge should be driven in ( I use a machinist hammer ( plastic on both ends)). Thumb pressure isn't sufficient pressure to remove all the mechanical clearances in the mating of the two assemblies.
If I use thumb pressure on my revolvers, the endshake is roughly .004" or so. Driving the wedge in (won't move anymore) results in the "predetermined" .002" or less ( my personal revolvers).
That's the difference in "myth" ( what "they say") and Colt's instructions ( the actual design).

Mike

 

[45D]

Perfect timing ( no pun!!) / example!! (Next on the bench!).
Here's a new Uberti (never been fired) Navy with max tolerances!!!
Beautiful revolver, wedge in all the way, bottomed out against the wedge screw. Vertical play of the barrel assy. arbor is tight.

This pic is "at rest" :

This pic is with barrel pulled up:

Notice the space at the barrel lug/ frame.

Even with this "short arbor" situation with a "generous" wedge slot combination, it will end up with a tight wedge ( same wedge), driven in, with a .0025" -.003" endshake.


( tallk about timing!!!! )
Mike

 

[Crow Choker]

I replace wedge thumb pressure tight followed by firm tap with resin or nylon tip hammer. To disassemble a firm tap on the right side (left if Walker) is all that is needed to dislodge. I mosty use the resin tipped hammer on right. Bought that around 50 years ago at the old Herters store in Waseca, Minn when I bought first Colt capper. I use the left one at times if right one isn't handy. The nylon tip punch I put angles on I use once in a while to remove wedge if a bit stubborn. The half clothes pin works the best and gets the most use. Requisitioned it from Mrs. Crows laundry room. Actually the one I use is trimmed down a bit (shorter). It shows alotta use but seems to be MIA at present. Final setup is around .025-.030 when wedge is set.

 

[wiscoaster]

.... the wedge should be driven in.....Thumb pressure isn't sufficient pressure to remove all the mechanical clearances in the mating of the two assemblies.
...

Well, maybe along with a light tap from a mallet, if needed, to get the thing to seat, but having to hammer the dang thing in isn't the way to go. Something's not right if that's what a guy has to do. I'm sure Sam Colt didn't envision his pistol carriers to go about carrying hammers. You can do a light tap with anything that's handy. It should go in, at least most of the way, without forcing it. Forcing something to fit is never the right way to make it fit. Using the term "driven in" could easily be misinterpreted by us newbies to mean "whacking it in with a hammer until it don't go no further". If the "mechanical clearances" don't permit, then some work needs to be done to remove imperfections in those clearances, such as burrs, etc.

 

[Crow Choker]

'wiscoaster'-----Believe there is alot of misinterpretation as to what someone says and how they actually physically perform a function. If I know a writer is saying 'he whacks the wedge' to seat it and know he is a responsible gun person or one says 'he hammers it in' knowing him, I don't believe they are using alot of force. I say in fact that I give the wedge a 'whack', but it is actually a firm tap. Local sayings in one region said in person to someone not of that area may give the person not from that area a moment of confusion. If you say yer going to 'run down to the grocery store', you aren't physically going to run there but its a 'saying'.
Ya persons new to Colt open top revolvers may get confused, but a responsible one I believe should have enough sense to know you don't give something like a Colt wedge the same force as you would a nail, tent stake, or other item that needs alot of force to drive it in. Don't think anyone is advocating "hammering the dang thing in", ie using alot of force. I've read where alot of open top Colt revolver shooters advocate and like just thumb pressure. Think maybe alot of those are the guys who won't/don't use the lever /rammer to seat a ball but like those contraptions to load off of the frame and want an easy takedown. Personally, I have no time for those things, but that's me, I like to load as Ol Sam designed the Colts.

 

[45D]

Using the term "driven in" could easily be misinterpreted by us newbies to mean "whacking it in with a hammer until it don't go no further". If the "mechanical clearances" don't permit, then some work needs to be done to remove imperfections in those clearances, such as burrs, etc.

You got !! That's what the instructions say to do. It's a "fitted" fit. It's a method from the FIRST successful revolvers so, do your on thing but don't ask questions and tell those that answer you "newbies" questions that we don't know!! Have fun with your new hobby!!

BTW, I didn't say " . . . till it don't go no further" that's a little bit offensive. You "wit" me bro?

Mike

 

[wiscoaster]

....

BTW, I didn't say " . . . till it don't go no further" that's a little bit offensive. You "wit" me bro?

wit you bro, and no offense, just please watch your descriptive language that might be misinterpreted by dummies to mean something not intended.