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Thanks, it looks great
Wouldn’t call it great, but pretty good for pallet wood. Believe your stock has at least as much, if not more promise. Whatever the wood is, it’s harder than bull’s nuts as the toolmakers I apprenticed under used to say. I didn’t put much into the stock prep work, using my MILSURP stock finishing process. A good soaking with KrudKutter, a power rinse, followed with a rub down with a ScotchBrite pad. Then applying Aquafortis Reagent per instructions.

Looking forward to seeing what your end product looks like.
 
Rudyard, seconds on the fiebings leather dye, make sure you get the alcohol based leather dye if it were mine I would take it down to bare wood using cabinet scrapers, fiebings dark brown leather dye for the stock, strip the blueing off the barrel and lock and brown them maybe even cut back the bell on the barrel a bit.
 
The only problem with Fiebing's Leather Dye is it is made for show repairs so it is very dark. It's real easy to overdo it and end up with a color on the stock that is much darker than the color that's wanted.

To solve this, buy a can of denatured alcohol. Use the alcohol to dilute the dye at least by 1/2. Adding 3 to 4 times as much alcohol is maybe even better.
By doing this, each coat of dye will darken the wood some but not too much. Then, when that coat is dry, more coats can be added with each one further darkening the wood until it gets to the color and darkness the builder wants.
Be sure to check this darkness while the stain is wet. It will look lighter when it drys but it will return to the "wet" color as soon as a finishing oil is added.

Linseed oil can be used to finish the wood but it takes a LONG time to dry. Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil is basically the same as linseed but it has driers added to it so it drys in a few hours rather than a few weeks. Pure 100% Tung oil also takes forever to dry. They do make Tung oil with driers added but it's a real good idea to check out the can to see what the drying times are before buying it.
While I hate Minwax stains because they attempt to color the wood as well as finish it, they also make a Tung finishing oil that's not bad. Watco Danish wood finish is another one that is pretty good.

Remember, when applying the oil, you do NOT want to brush it on. Finishing a gun stock requires using a small rag soaked in the oil and then rubbed into the wood. By doing this several times and letting it dry between coats, a beautiful smooth finish can be achieved. It won't look like it was painted on. It will look like it is a natural part of the wood.

Have fun. :thumb:
 
just take it and go have fun with it! I guarantee that you will have fun with it, and it didn't break the bank!
 
remember that we all can't start out with $2000.00, bench made weapons??!!
 
Taffyman
No idea what you paid for it, but from what i see looks like a decent ( all there ) rifle. I would clean it up, make sure nipple passage in breach is open, clean bore really good, and go have some fun with it. If it turns out to be a decent shooter then i would maybe restore it some, otherwise enjoy it for what it is.
DL
 
Taffyman
No idea what you paid for it, but from what i see looks like a decent ( all there ) rifle. I would clean it up, make sure nipple passage in breach is open, clean bore really good, and go have some fun with it. If it turns out to be a decent shooter then i would maybe restore it some, otherwise enjoy it for what it is.
DL

Thanks, I paid around $280 at auction on a whim and now find myself in the world of muzzleloading.
 
Feibings leather dye is a GREAT stain, but wear really good gloves . . it's very messy.
 
Just purchased a .45 cal percussion rifle at an auction, I have no information about the piece, I wanted to get into blackpowder shooting at my gunclub and this rifle seemed to be a good start. Please see attached photos, your information would be appreciated. The only markings I can see are FALCON ARMS, a M in a circle, and .45 CAL. There is a name and a date roughly engraved on the side, the date obviously predates the percussion age, all a mystery

Hi. Since I live in Spain, maybe I can help you. This rifle is a Spanish replica manufactured by the "Mendi" workshop in Eibar (Spain). It is from the early or mid-1970s, before Mendi and Jucar came together to form DIKAR, which made muzzleloaders for the CVA. It is a cheap replica, designed as a prop for a movie or television series and to decorate on the wall of the house. Although you can also shoot with it. Best regards.
 
Hi. Since I live in Spain, maybe I can help you. This rifle is a Spanish replica manufactured by the "Mendi" workshop in Eibar (Spain). It is from the early or mid-1970s, before Mendi and Jucar came together to form DIKAR, which made muzzleloaders for the CVA. It is a cheap replica, designed as a prop for a movie or television series and to decorate on the wall of the house. Although you can also shoot with it. Best regards.
Thanks for the info,
 
After all the great advice from everyone, I went with a rub down, linseed oil and bees wax, and hung it on the wall, I will shoot it after I obtain the bits and pieces required, patches, ball etc. Thanks again everyone
IMG_0657.JPG
 
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