Timing, time and time again

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Billy Boy

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Hi all,

Worked out most all of the cap jam issues with my Uberti ‘62 Police, but have noticed it is peening the “deep” or following edge of the locking bolt recess.
New hand and bolt installed, width of bolt fits narrowest recess, seems to be in time but peening seems to be increasing. Any suggs? All will be appreciated,

Thnx
 

Juice Jaws

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Hi all,

Worked out most all of the cap jam issues with my Uberti ‘62 Police, but have noticed it is peening the “deep” or following edge of the locking bolt recess.
New hand and bolt installed, width of bolt fits narrowest recess, seems to be in time but peening seems to be increasing. Any suggs? All will be appreciated,

Thnx
Can't help you with your question, but maybe you can help me, how did you fix your cap jams with your 62 police? Having the same problem.
 

Billy Boy

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HI JUICE,
I have a post here somewhere explaining the exorcism but briefly:
- enlarged and polished cap ‘trash’ groove on breach face
- changed to US made #11 nipples, small flash-hole
- filled safety pin recess in hammer nose with epoxy
- filed off the safety pins on back of cylinder (load only 4 if carrying)
- milled 4 -5 thou. off frame abutment on barrel -can be done w/file
if you are careful, this eliminates the endshake which is a big part
of the problem.
- shimmed base of mainspring
- smoothed all edges on hammer recesses in frame
- switched to Remington caps
- danced with a dead cat at midnight during a full moon

My ‘62 in now enjoyable to shoot, but like most beautiful things can STILl be temperamental.....
 

RedFeather

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I have an old Hawes 1858 which does the same thing. Not sure if it is a timing issue or what. Need to get some longer nipples since I've had to shim a couple to get positive ignition.
 

Juice Jaws

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HI JUICE,
I have a post here somewhere explaining the exorcism but briefly:
- enlarged and polished cap ‘trash’ groove on breach face
- changed to US made #11 nipples, small flash-hole
- filled safety pin recess in hammer nose with epoxy
- filed off the safety pins on back of cylinder (load only 4 if carrying)
- milled 4 -5 thou. off frame abutment on barrel -can be done w/file
if you are careful, this eliminates the endshake which is a big part
of the problem.
- shimmed base of mainspring
- smoothed all edges on hammer recesses in frame
- switched to Remington caps
- danced with a dead cat at midnight during a full moon

My ‘62 in now enjoyable to shoot, but like most beautiful things can STILl be temperamental.....
Thanks for all the tips. Never dance with a dead cat but have dance with a few dogs.
 

denster

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If your bolt is peening to outboard edge of the cylinder bolt slot it is dropping way late if it is peening the inboard edge (at the end of the cylinder lead) it is dropping only a little late. To get the bolt to drop sooner you remove material from the back end of the bolt leg that rides on the hammer cam. You want it to drop in the lead.
 

M. De Land

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Hi all,

Worked out most all of the cap jam issues with my Uberti ‘62 Police, but have noticed it is peening the “deep” or following edge of the locking bolt recess.
New hand and bolt installed, width of bolt fits narrowest recess, seems to be in time but peening seems to be increasing. Any suggs? All will be appreciated,

Thnx
Quite often what is happening is the hand is trying to turn the cylinder before the bolt nose clears the slot and it raises a burr on the back side.
Personally I prefer the bolt drop just past half way of the next notch before it slides into the lead in cut. The spring tension does leave a line but if the bolt nose is properly dressed and polished (as it should be) it does no damage to the cylinder steel making a line but no groove. The reason I prefer this is the spring tension on the bolt nose riding the cylinder is a breaking action on the cylinder spin causing the bolt to not to slam into the back of the bolt notch as hard.
The line does not mean a revolver is out of time as some folks feel.
If it's binding and leaving a burr on the back of the cylinder notch then it actually is out of time.
This can be caused by late bolt pick up or to long of a hand nose.
 
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Billy Boy

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Thnx for the info denster, i will give it a go.
Quite often what is happening is the hand is trying to turn the cylinder before the bolt nose clears the slot and it raises a burr on the back side.
Personally I prefer the bolt drop just past half way of the next notch before it slides into the lead in cut. The spring tension does leave a line but if the bolt nose is properly dressed and polished (as it should be) it does no damage to the cylinder steel making a line but no groove. The reason I prefer this is the spring tension on the bolt nose riding the cylinder is a breaking action on the cylinder spin causing the bolt to not to slam into the back of the bolt notch as hard.
The line does not mean a revolver is out of time as some folks feel.
If it's binding and leaving a burr on the back of the cylinder notch then it actually is out of time.
This can be caused by late bolt pick up or to long of a hand nose.
 
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I had my time with the Colts... could never get one working steady. Bought a Remy and never looked back. 0 as in ZEE-ROW issues with jams or misfirings.
 

snubnose57

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What I do is take a small file, and smooth out the sharp edges around the part of the hammer that rests on the safety pins. Done that to all my Colts, and have had no cap sucking issues since. There is a YouTube video explaining this , I think by Mr Belleviue(?).
 

Billy Boy

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Thnx to you guys for sharing your knowledge with me. I whittled on my
‘62 this morning, shortened the hammer cam contact leg of the bolt (3 X), shortened the hand a itty bit, and I now have 4 nice, clean clicks and a properly timed 5 shooter!
 

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