Thinking about a build

[RollingThunder]

I'm thinking about a build. I'm new to this forum but not to muzzlelosding. I've built a Jim Bridger hawken from TOW's pre inlet parts set. I had them install the breech plug and underrib. I'm thinking I need a long rifle in flintlock now. I havn't bought any parts yet... just doing some research before I start.I want to start with a blank stock and do the breech plug/tang myself. I just bought "Recreating the American Long rifle" and watched "Gunsmith of Williamsburg" In the book the author says to inlet the barrel without the breech/tang installed then inlet the tang. Gusler in the movie demonstrated the barrel and breech inlet as a single unit. When I done the final inletting on my Hawken I glued the tang to the breech and inletted it as a single piece. What's the best way if I'm starting from a blank? Also what other good reference books should I look at before I start.

 

[kaintuck]

Welcome,
I have done it both ways...barrel w/tang, or just barrel. But barrel can be inletted easier by itself....and locate the flash hole to position all the other parts. The you just start making everything thinner and thinner.....
Marc

 

[Birddog6]

Download & print out Mike Brooks Longrifle Building Tutorial & study it.

Keith Lisle

 

[galamb]

The Gunsmith of Grenville County (Peter Alexander) is another good step by step/how to book. A couple of good books often compliment each other - slightly different perspective/explanations.

I too vote for "inlet the barrel first" - then inlet with the breech attached. I just find after getting the barrel "settled" it makes doing the tang a little easier than trying to juggle all the inletting at the same time.

I prefer working from a blank - you are not restricted to where "someone else" thought things should go.

But before you even buy the wood, figure out "exactly" what you want to build and make sure you can get the parts you will need.

Nothing worse than planning on using "this barrel" then you can't get it for 8-12 months (or if you do have to special order, plan that in advance and collect everything else you need).

(if you are looking for a rifle that is relatively Historically Correct)

And you don't settle on what you want to build - if your idea is kinda wishy/washy you will end up with a rifle that looks nothing like anything.

I would even go so far as to pick a specific rifle (or a couple examples) from a specific builder.

Not because you might be looking to do a "bench copy" (unless that is your goal), but if you try and stay relatively true to a specific rifle you are more than likely to capture the look/flavor correctly, even if you "take some liberties" along the way.

 

[jerrywh]

In my opinion the book you have is the best there is. There are a lot of small things not in the book but the guys on the web site will always be glad to advise you if you ask. I am not familiar with Alexander's book except for the fact that it is expensive. Beware of advise from people who don't know themselves.

 

[Col. Batguano]

A lot of historical builders used parts from different schools, to develop their own styles. John Armstrong rifles are John Armstrong rifles, and most late Lancasters look very similar. But when you get to Lehighs, John Young's Lehighs don't look like John Rupp's, John Moll's, or Nicholas Hawk's. The butt plates are all shaped differently, as is the degree of swoop in the roman nose, entry pipes, carving, engraving, etc.

Researching your build is half the fun. In the end, you will build your own rifle, and decorate and engrave it in the way that you want.

 

[RollingThunder]

Thanks. I'm having fun trying to narrow down exactly what I want to build. An early Virginia would be great but swamped barrels are a little intimidating. What are some good sources for stock blanks?

 

[Birddog6]

IMHO, as with most guys getting into building, I think you are going about it bass-ackwards. Basically, are you going to Shoot it ? or Look at it ? Cause if you plan on shooting it, you need to go Shoulder some different styles & see what really Fits you.... Looks don't mean anything if you are not comfortable shooting it. :idunno:
Thus I feel you should go shoulder some, find the styles that fit your shooting, weight, balance, LOP, etc., and then look into those styles of rifles. There is generally a lot of variations in styles & some adjustments that can be made to make them fit you....... but you don't know this til you go try them out.

Basically it is like buying shoes from a catalog & not having any idea of what size you actually need. You are saying "Oh, this looks nice, give me a pair in 7, 10, & 12, as those look just Great." Well they really will look great in the closet.......

You are talking about roughly spending $800. to $1000. and spending 120 to 200 hours of you time in it....... why not make it something that is correct for you, instead of MAKING yourself shoot something that doesn't fit you correctly. :wink:

Keith Lisle

Gun Stock Blanks ? Dunlaps, and Dunlaps, and Dunlaps...... He is Top Dog in gunstocks for me. I have bought from others, but most of my maple stocks come from him.

 

[MSW]

Mr. Lisle's advice is good - that whole 'form follows function' thing is often overlooked in the excitement ...

as regards the books: my first was Peter Alexander's The Gunsmith of Grenville County, which continues to serve me well. I will concede that it's a bit on the pricey side, but if you count the cost of parts I didn't ruin, time I didn't spend waiting for replacement parts (not ruined) to arrive, and time not spent in purgatory for bad language not used, it's a pretty cost- efficient purchase. (I also like the spiral binding - it sits flat on the bench - rather a nice touch when everything else is going wrong and then your book closes itself grrrrr)

just one guy's advice - free and doubtless well worth the price!

 

[Vaino]

Depending on the style of the LR, starting from a blank can be intimidating...not so much as concerns the actual work, but the designing. If a Lehigh or a Bucks County were to be your choice, then at a minimum, a profiled buttstock from an "authentic" model would ensure a correctly styled LR. Both of these styles are very "petite" and require certain design features to produce a very slim LR.

An early Lancaster design is much more straight forward and would be a good choice for a first blank build. Good luck .......Fred

 

[kaintuck]

i will add one thing to Keith's comment....buy #4 or higher up on the blank....because if you do a great job, you'll always kick yourself for NOT getting a higher grade blank to begin with....I've been there, do that!
now, i like red maple #4 or better for nice lancaster~a 'poor boy or SMR, cherry or walnut suits ME....but if the customer wants something else~? heh, I will do whatever folks want.....that's what makes the world go 'round!
:grin:
some like Britney, some like Paris... :stir:

 

[Col. Batguano]

Agree on the higher grade of wood comment. Let's put it in a finished product value scenario.

If you have a gun built from a custom builder it is going to run you about $2000 on the low end, on up to $10,000 for a totally beautiful masterpiece, with tons of carving and engraving.

Assuming you're going to make your share of mistakes along the way, even your best effort on a first gun while trying to come up with a $10,000 work of art is only going to be a $5000 gun. If you built it with lumber yard wood at $5.00 per board foot it would be a $3000 gun, and your front end expenses would be less by about $100. You're going to spend the same amount of time building it with lousy wood as you would with really great wood. So suck it up and pay a little more on the front end. You only pay for quality once.

 

[Dan lbsmyr]

So much good advice here. I am in a similar process. I scoured the building sites and choose to blank build. Bought " recreating the American Longrifle", "gunsmith of Grenville county" and Turpins video. I find I use the Alexander book the most but have changed his building sequence based on advise here. Alexander book advises barrel before tang and that I did on a swamped barel and found it very challenging but very exciting. Ramrod hole was next, and found it plainly described and challenging and exciting. Have now finished the barrel lugs the same way; books and great web advice. Same result: challenging but exiting. I used Alexander's advice to do a Trystock and my favorite shouldering rifle, and " copy" a specific school. I have made mistakes but I still can't wait to turn on the lights in the shop :grin: Shaping the stock is next and I need to get photos on line and ask for input from the fine builders here. :thumbsup: Gosh I do believe I am building a Longrifle :grin: Good luck! Hope this helps you

 

[galamb]

I have made mistakes but I still can't wait to turn on the lights in the shop :grin:

NO, you have gained experience and worked towards perfecting your building technique.

Your next rifle will contain less errors and by the time you get to your 4th or 5th, which will happen, you will be a "seasoned pro"

 

[Col. Batguano]

Every build you make you will probably try to incorporate new features, and improve those that you've done before. Like incise carving, raised carving, a self-cut out patch box, hidden patch box release mechanism, engraving, differing metals inletting (like gold leaf). Each time you try a new skill or process, you will make new mistakes for that new feature. If not, then you will be going really slowly. It's all about the journey. The more mistakes you make, the more you will learn along the way.