• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

T/C Hawken Flintlock

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Most T/C failure to fire instances can be attributed to a fouling blockage in the flash channel. A flintlock will have the nipple seat and the so called "clean out screw" replaced by a breech plug with a touch hole liner. Eliminate the delay by keeping the flash channel clear of fouling.

What we can see in this cut away picture of a T/C breech plug is that the flash channel can't be cleaned by all the normal jags, undersized chambered scrapers and even breech face brushes, the total flash channel can't be cleaned except by a pipe cleaner from the nipple seat to the powder chamber. That's a pretty long path for the heat from the pan to get to the powder charge. Little wonder that T/C flintlocks have a bad reputation. Getting powder from the powder chamber to near the touch hole can be improved with the use of 3Fg (real black) powder and smacking the breech to get some powder settled near the touch hole.

View attachment 253458

That flash channel can be filled by powder fouling being pushed into the flash channel when wiped between shots. Fortunately, there is enough force generated by a percussion cap to blow the fouling out of the flash channel and into a damp patch on the cleaning jag that is down at the breech. Pay no attention to that so called "clean out screw" shown next to the breech. That one is too long and will jam against the nipple or possibly block the flash channel at the nipple seat. A flint lock will need a burst of compressed air through the touch hole to keep that long flash channel open and dry. Perhaps a blast from a CO2 ball discharger will help. If wiping between shots, be sure a plume of smoke is pushed out of the touch hole. A fine brush or pipe cleaner can be pushed through the touch hole and through the flash channel.

Since it is a hooked breech, the barrel can be removed and the chambered breech and the flash channel can be flushed clean in a container of cleaning solution (okay, water and a little bit of dish soap).

Get that flash channel clean and get powder as close as possible to the touch hole and the delays should be as fast as possible.
That is a TC percussion breech plug in the photograph. Basically little to do with any issues the OP is having with their TC flintlock. Don’t have a photograph of a TC flint cross section at the moment, but it is basically a straight shot through the vent liner to the ‘chambered breech area. I have a number of TC flintlocks, and use a #2 center drill with a 5/64” tip to chamfer the backside of the liner. The 5/64” diameter vent orifice may seem excessive to some, but I have been using it for over 20 years with as fast ignition as any flintlock I have shot or owned with no issues. These liners a cheap, get a few and experiment for yourself. Personally, I’ll take a little bit more auto priming the pan for consistent fast ignition. And yep, I use 3F powder for my main charge on most all of guns, flintlocks included. A 1/16” vs 5/64” vent is not going to change the amount of 3F powder ‘auto’ priming the pan by much.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top