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T/C front sight replacement

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Old School 117 said:
I have a T/C .56 Renegade 1" barrel that I want to replace the front sight on. The current sight is thick and bulky. How do I get started? Here's what I want to replace it with:
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(c...14&subId=167&styleId=761&partNum=FS-TC-BEAD-L
If the sight you currently have on your T/C is a factory sight and no modifications appear to have been made to the dovetail, the other TC sight shown on TOWs website should fit perfectly.

If you look really, really close, you should see that the width of the dove tail on the left side of the barrel is an eyelash wider than the right side...at least they are on all the T/C Hawkens I've had...meaning you want to tap the existing front sight out of the left side of the dovetail, and tap the new sight back in from the left side as well.

The only problem I ever encountered when I upgraded a few front sights was depending on age of the barrel, the DEPTH of the front dovetail was deeper than on other Hawken barrels, and as a result, front sights had two different base thicknessess...and the difference was visible to the eye, so just do some good close visuals on the new sight dimensions compared to the existing sight before wading in.

Then, if you have a c-clamp type nylon faced front sight pusher, that would be best to use.
If not, find a nylon faced drift.
Barring that, use a brass rod with a relatively small end and clean sharp edges to get a clean contact with the base and not scratch the flat along side the dovetail. (a couple thicknesses of duct tape will give that flat SOME protection.
 
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I don't know what tool he is talking to you about, but if this is the soft headed hammer you need, you should be able to find them cheaper at a local retailer. Check Hardware stores, and Home stores.( Lowes, Home Depot, Farm and Fleet, etc.)
 
Old School 117 said:
Thanks much RB. I assume to center the sight I'll just measure and pencil mark the center of the barrel before installation?
You can certainly mark the centerlines , but to be honest, you shouldn't have to bother...if you'll just take a close look at the existing base, you see that there's an equal relationship of the edge of the base to the L and R edges of the top flat...and can just visually center it up that way.
Is it such a tight fit that it will not move if the gun gets bumped/dropped as in normal hunting conditions?
The replacement should fit just as tight as the existing one.
Also...is this the tool you refered to?
Well, any hammer will do of course...the main thing you need to have is a proper sized punch.
Ideally the head of the punch should be at least as wide as the base...any larger and the excess can extend upwards causing no problems...but anything smaller than the width of the base and you run the risk of the punch actually making a hole in the side of the base.

If it was me, assuming you already had a hammer around the houses, instead of investing in a hammer combo like that I'd invest in a few good quality brass drift punches and a couple of steel punches...sizes like 1/4", 3/8", maybe a 1/2"...do not scrimp on the cost of punches...get the best quality.
 
Not to seem stupid,.. but I'm basically tapping the old sight off and tapping the new one on? I take real good care of my babies and don't want to go messing them up just because I didn't know what I was doing. Thanks for your patience :bow:
 
Exactly right...they just slide into the dovetail but of course are a snug fit so they don't move around.

Tap the existing one out to the left, tap the replacement in from the left.

Be sure to keep the new sight in as straight of an orientation that you can when starting it.
They will usually let you wedge their edge into the edge of the dovetail with your fingers.
Get it aligned correctly then gently tap it once or twice and watch to be sure it's not canted in any direction...then just keep gently tapping it on in.

The good thinjg about using a brass drift is if you accidently hit the barrel as you get close to completion, gentle use of a brass/bronze brush will usually remove the brass streak and not harm the bluing
 
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