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Suggestions on this nose cap fix?

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Davemuzz

45 Cal.
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Long story on how I got here, but these photos show what I have to work with. The black "stuff" is JB Weld that remains from me heating the cap to remove it's "permanency" from the stock.

So, I'm considering just JB Welding the broken piece....along with "filling" the hole with either JB or perhaps a wooden plug....then re-drilling the hole (this time in the right place) to attach the nose cap.

However, I'm open for ideas. Different type of bonding agent?

BTW, the remaining piece that is attached to the stock is solid. (FYI)

I'm gonna work on shaping the foreshock for awhile......less chance of getting into trouble. :rotf: :rotf:

aOhC2e3.jpg


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I usually pin my nose caps with brass nails essentially creating a rivet. If that was my rifle I would remove the existing piece and affix a new block to the front, then shape as desired.

I would pin and glue the new block with acraglas, I personally don't like using epoxies if they are not designed for firearm use, just my standard. I must be honest... that JB weld makes me cringe! :shocked2:
 
Honestly, the best thing you could do at this stage would be to put this project on the back-burner (not literally) until you educate yourself further on building longrifles. Installing a nose cap is one of the easier things to do and the fact that you would even consider JB Weld for anything outside of repairing your lawnmower is concerning.

What educational material do you currently own?
 
Well Obiwan.....I have the Gunsmith of Grenville County.

Yes, I agree the nose cap is one of the easiest matters to perform. However, this time I made a mistake. You know...mistake.

And FWIW, if you can't honestly help, don't post.

Dave
 
Obi-Wan Cannoli said:
Honestly, the best thing you could do at this stage would be to put this project on the back-burner (not literally) until you educate yourself further on building longrifles. Installing a nose cap is one of the easier things to do and the fact that you would even consider JB Weld for anything outside of repairing your lawnmower is concerning.

What educational material do you currently own?

Little rash of an assumption wouldn't you say? I'm sure the individual is not looking for criticism, rather advice. If you are so seasoned in building, educate us please... In fact, one of the qualities of a builder is not measured by his mistakes, however it is measured by the quality in which he covers those mistakes...
 
Whatever you do on your current path, it's clearly going to involve a filler and a release (bet you know all about releases now!). Frankly I'd be more tempted to hack it off and start over, either leaving the barrel the same length and using a longer nose cap or cutting the barrel back to match the new stock length.
 
It was solid advice, you JB Welded a part on and then torched the end of your stock off. Things are going catastrophically wrong and maybe you should reread Mr. Alexander's book before complicating matters further.
 
I would cut flush, glue a new piece of wood and re-inlet the nosecap. The issue is that a glued end-grain to end-grain joint is weak, so some sort of re-enforcement of this joint would be necessary. The nice part is the repair is hidden under the nosecap.
 
Maybe you should not make so many assumptions. Clearly you don't know anything of how this happen. However, if you want to KNOW (as knowing is a big deal.....and assumptions are what......) then go to this Link and you will then KNOW.

Please refrain from answering any of my post. Your responses are of no help at all.

Dave
 
Black Hand said:
I would cut flush, glue a new piece of wood and re-inlet the nosecap. The issue is that a glued end-grain to end-grain joint is weak, so some sort of re-enforcement of this joint would be necessary. The nice part is the repair is hidden under the nosecap.

:applause: :applause: :applause:

From a perspective to learn, you now know what NOT to do. Don't be afraid to approach the nose cap area fix as mentioned by Black Hand and myself. Cutting back the barrel and stock indeed is a sound option but a quicker fix. I would use this as an opportunity to learn how to properly fix your mistake. Take your time, and PLEASE don't hesitate to ask questions. The only dumb questions are the ones not asked. Disregard negativity and roll on! You learn by DOING, not just reading. :thumbsup:
 
BrownBear said:
... (bet you know all about releases now!)...


:rotf: :rotf: I've known and used releases for many years when bedding rifles into stocks. My "go to" has always been "neutral" color shoe polish.

And I thank you gent's for your responses. I have some Devcon on my shelf, but deferred using it as it's my belief it holds when I have a larger area that I can "scuff up" so the product will hold.

I just put in an order for the Accraglas (sp). I ordered the "old kind" as I didn't like the reviews about the gel type.

Again, I thank you much for your help. :hatsoff:

Dave
 
The only modern adhesive product I've used in gun-building is super glue to re-attach chips or fix a minor crack.
 
Yes, it was a harsh thing to say rereading what I had posted and for that I would like to apologize to Dave.

What I was getting at is that the biggest mistake a newer builder makes is not knowing when to walk away and take a break, to clear they're mind and reflect on the situation. When I saw what was done to the rifle I got concerned that it would turn into another pile of broken dreams inside a ML shop's bargain bin and suggested a more conservative and rational approach to the situation. I just approached it incorrectly.

I never claimed to be a "seasoned builder", that was just you being facetious.

The approach I would take is saving the brass nose cap for a different project and pouring the nose cap instead.

I wouldn't cut the barrel down because then he would need a crowning tool.

Pinning a block with acraglas also sounds dicey because there is such a dainty amount of wood there the long term stability of that fix is questionable.

Also, you can buy solid copper rivets on amazon as an alternative to brass nails.
 
I see that mistake as an opportunity to make the rifle something a little different and more personal.
I would cut it flush and form a whole new front end from a contrasting wood. Ebony would be nice or a black stained other hardwood. Then shape, pin and glue (I favor Titebond II) in place. Forget the brass, you will now have a custom nosepiece.
 
You could get fiddly - scab in enough to fill the defects then fit the nosecap again. Use wood glue and tightly fit the piece(s). A couple small-diameter wood pins would help re-enforce the area. That said, I don't know your level of woodworking experience and how comfortable you would be attempting this...

Simpler if you still have the missing piece(s) to glue back in place.
 
facetious, fancy word...

I have the experience of building because I do build and have made the mistakes, not just by putting my nose in a book, but DOING the work.

I'm not downing your abilities, however I have never seen a build post from you.

Secondly, cutting and crowning a barrel doesn't require a fancy tool, period.

Pouring a cap for this type of repair isn't going to be likely a solid option.

Correctly using a modern epoxy such as acraglas and pins for an end grain repair will result in an area stronger than the wood.

Lastly, you obviously have never pinned a nose cap to have any idea what I'm talking about.

Enough said, I've seen your other replies to members, arguing with you is like arguing with my children. Your reply was again harsh to a new member who has came here searching for advice. While you can justify your reply, your choice of words in doing so were obviously not well received... Enough :eek:ff responses and arguing.
 
He can shape the nose of his stock back a little bit to provide a solid anchor for the poured cap, but I clearly have no idea what I'm talking about so I will leave you gentlemen to helping the man destroy his stuff.
 

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