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Stitch to prevent fraying

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KHickam

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I am in the process of hand sewing a rifleman's frock - I got the pattern layed out and I am starting to sew it up - what stitch is best to prevent fraying of the edges so that when I start washing and wearing it - the fraying will not cause it to come apart?
 
It's called an overcast stitch, and there are a number of ways to accomplish it. basically you pierce the fabric in the seam allowance, then bring the thread around the cut edge before piercing again.

I have a few old tailoring books around here; I'll see if I can find an illustration and post it for you.
 
Here's a picture of the inside of a pair 1820's fall front pants. They stitched the pants together with a back stitch and used that overcast stitch. A blanket stitch works just as well but takes longer.
Here's a tip from a old hand stitcher, they sell this stuff that looks like masking tape at the sewing store. It comes in different widths, pick something like 1/2" or what ever. You place this tape along the edge of the sewing and stitch along it's inner most edge to give you a perfect stitch with 1/2" seam alowance. Rip off the tape and go to overcasting and your done. On final inspection your seam will look perfect.
Oh, and if your just to lazy to over cast by then, they have this stuff that's basicly water proof glue that when painted on the edge will prevent fraying.

1820fallfrontpantsStitchingInside.jpg


Regards
Loyd Shindelbower
 
You could also do a flat-felled seam. In this case the raw edge is turned under and sewn down.
 
Dan - How can I work a panel of cloth into the body of the frock - It fits but a little more overlap I would prefer.

Keith
 
They also sell a product called "Fray Check". It is applied to the edge of the fabric to prevent fraying. I usually do the flat felled or a French seam. A French seam is sewn with the wrong side together in a 1/4" seam and the fold the seam in side and stitch again on the inside of the garment. This encloses the raw edges and gives the inside a finished look, too.
To add width to the front, cut to strip twice the width that you want to add - example need 12" overall, cut to 12" strips the length of the front. Seam them to the front, fold in half and stitch again. It will work like the front placket of your modern button front shirt. You will then have 6" on each side to balance the front.
Slash
 
i had someone make up an outer wrap for me over ten years ago it's a heavy cotton duckm I never did anything with the raw edges, it frayed some and I pulled out the long threads and it has pretty much stopped fraying now, just an occasional long thread to break, It didn't cost much $30 I think so I did not think I was out much f it fell apart, it may be held together with dirt and deer blood by now but I think it will last a long time before it ends up a pile of thread on the ground,,,,not the recomended method just sharing an experience.



"
spike1.jpg
 
KHickam said:
Dan - How can I work a panel of cloth into the body of the frock - It fits but a little more overlap I would prefer.

Keith

To add width to the front, cut to strip twice the width that you want to add - example need 12" overall, cut to 12" strips the length of the front. Seam them to the front, fold in half and stitch again. It will work like the front placket of your modern button front shirt. You will then have 6" on each side to balance the front.
Slash


This would work, and is probably the easiest way to get some more overlap. In fact, without seeing the frock, I can't really make another suggestion.

Hope this works for you.
 
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