Started My Woodsrunner

[Appowner]

It's underway so of course I have some questions. Biggest right now concerns the finishing of the stock.

Does anyone leave any of the hardware in place while sanding between finish coats? I'm thinking the nose cap and butt plate to name two and NOT the lock. Especially the butt plate to prevent over aggressive sanding. Or is this not a problem?

And I know, no power tools!

 

[Phil Coffins]

I left the butt plate on. The nose cap is riveted in place so stays and I added a toe plate the stayed on during sanding then remove it and but plate for stain and finish. I started sanding with 220 grit as the Woodsrunner machine work is so well done no aggressive sanding is nessasary. USE backers with the sand paper!

 

[Beaverman2]

It's underway so of course I have some questions. Biggest right now concerns the finishing of the stock.

Does anyone leave any of the hardware in place while sanding between finish coats? I'm thinking the nose cap and butt plate to name two and NOT the lock. Especially the butt plate to prevent over aggressive sanding. Or is this not a problem?

And I know, no power tools!

IF you have not watched Kiblers you tube posts on assembling and finishing the woods runner, stop working on that and spend some time watching all 4 or 5 of them, will answer a plethora of questions!

 

[Appowner]

IF you have not watched Kiblers you tube posts on assembling and finishing the woods runner, stop working on that and spend some time watching all 4 or 5 of them, will answer a plethora of questions!

I've been making my way through them for the second or third time now. Yes they do answer a lot but I also wanted the opinion of the group here.

 

[Appowner]

I left the butt plate on. The nose cap is riveted in place so stays and I added a toe plate the stayed on during sanding then remove it and but plate for stain and finish. I started sanding with 220 grit as the Woodsrunner machine work is so well done no aggressive sanding is nessasary. USE backers with the sand paper!

Sanding is one thing I hate. If it takes longer than I expect, I tend to get over aggressive in order to get it done. I'm better in recent years but I still guard against it.

One issue I'm working now is the trigger will not fit into the slot in the trigger plate. It's close. Oh so very close. So I'm using some very fine wet/dry to thin that part of the trigger that goes through that plate. That's tomorrow's project.

 

[James Kibler]

Sanding is one thing I hate. If it takes longer than I expect, I tend to get over aggressive in order to get it done. I'm better in recent years but I still guard against it.

One issue I'm working now is the trigger will not fit into the slot in the trigger plate. It's close. Oh so very close. So I'm using some very fine wet/dry to thin that part of the trigger that goes through that plate. That's tomorrow's project.

Take a mill file and rub the sides of the trigger along it a few times on each side to remove burrs etc. Should fit fine after this. Probably about a 2-3 minute job to be honest.

 

[Appowner]

Take a mill file and rub the sides of the trigger along it a few times on each side to remove burrs etc. Should fit fine after this. Probably about a 2-3 minute job to be honest.

Thanks Jim! Already took care of the burrs. Did that first. Now the trigger goes in part way and sticks. So I'm using some wet dry on it to keep me from over doing it and then I'll hit it with Flitz and my Dremel to polish it up. It's getting better every time. I just prefer to sneak up on it.

 

[TDM]

@Appowner, I’d suggest whiskering the stock with a damp terrycloth rag and lettering in dry before your final light sanding, especially if it’s Maple. I whisker 2, sometimes 3 times. But that’s just me.

 

[Appowner]

@Appowner, I’d suggest whiskering the stock with a damp terrycloth rag and lettering in dry before your final light sanding, especially if it’s Maple. I whisker 2, sometimes 3 times. But that’s just me.

Not Maple. I'm a Walnut kind of guy and the piece Jim picked out for me is one nice piece. Lots of dark streaks in the grain. Almost hate to risk it. I was planning on doing the water treatment. If laziness doesn't get me I hope to start the sanding today. Won't take much. Thinking of starting with 320 grit. I can always go down if that isn't enough. But I'm betting it will be perfect and I may go even a bit more fine on it.

 

[Dangus]

I'm working on a walnut Woodsrunner, as well. I'm following the process described in Jim's sand-along video as I did with my previous maple Woodsrunner. I've gone to 320 and whiskered twice with 320 and maroon ScotchBright and will leave it there until carving is done, then I'll see what's needed then.

For finishing, I'll be following Jim's Staining Curly Maple Gun Stock with Iron Nitrate video. I plan to use some iron nitrate on this walnut to darken/redden the wood and top it off with Tried & True. (Already tested a small spot in the barrel channel and got a nice deep reddish tone when rubbed back with T&T.)

 

[Appowner]

I'm working on a walnut Woodsrunner, as well. I'm following the process described in Jim's sand-along video as I did with my previous maple Woodsrunner. I've gone to 320 and whiskered twice with 320 and maroon ScotchBright and will leave it there until carving is done, then I'll see what's needed then.

For finishing, I'll be following Jim's Staining Curly Maple Gun Stock with Iron Nitrate video. I plan to use some iron nitrate on this maple to darken/redden the wood and top it off with Tried & True. (Already tested a small spot in the barrel channel and got a nice deep reddish tone when rubbed back with T&T.)

I'm at the stage where I change my mind about every 10 minutes. I'll throw your method in my recipe list and see what happens.

Need to decide soon though.

 

[Dangus]

I'm at the stage where I change my mind about every 10 minutes. I'll throw your method in my recipe list and see what happens.

Need to decide soon though.

Yeah, that's kind of how I am. More than one way to skin a cat.

Regarding sanding grits, I recommend following Jim's recommendations of 150/220/320, or at least somewhere around there. There are some fine CNC machining marks in that wood that may not look like much unfinished, but they'll absolutely pop out at you once finished if you don't get 'em out first.

 

[Appowner]

Yeah, that's kind of how I am. More than one way to skin a cat.

Regarding sanding grits, I recommend following Jim's recommendations of 150/220/320, or at least somewhere around there. There are some fine CNC machining marks in that wood that may not look like much unfinished, but they'll absolutely pop out at you once finished if you don't get 'em out first.

I'll give it a look see and see what's up. Thanks!